Saturday, August 31, 2024

Ruhlmann Alsace Pinot Blanc Plaisir Fruite, 2018

One Australian wine merchant referred to this as "one of the easiest drinking wines on this planet." And I agree. But while it is easy to drink, it is by no means simple in any way.

Medium straw. Mellow scents and flavors of ripe pears and melon with a bit of honey. Many wines from Alsace are a bit sweet these days, but this Pinot Blanc is perfectly dry. Enough acidity for freshness but not enough to disturb the easy, peaceful feeling on the palate. Subtle twists of flavor on the medium long finish.
 

Thursday, August 29, 2024

Chateau Bel Air Bordeaux Superieure, 2020

Beside the Mary Taylor Bordeaux on the Amical wine list, this Chateau Bel Air offers a good comparison. Like the Mary Taylor, it is 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc. I presume it has been matured in mostly seasoned neutral oak.

Deep, dark ruby. Black currants, black berries and cassis. This is much closer to what I expect from inexpensive Bordeaux . A touch of aromatic herbs, giving it lifted  aromas and flavors. Acidic intensity that creates a pleasant tingling on the palate, several minutes after the last sip. I will put this wine on my buy list.
 

Mary Taylor Bordeaux Rouge, 2020

I have read good things about Mary Taylor wines. When I saw this Bordeaux Rouge offered as a wine by the glass at Amical in Traverse City, I was quick to order it.

Very deep and dark. Very black fruited and firm on the palate so I was surprised to learn that no oak was used during maturation. All fruit, "rural" as Mary Taylor puts it.. 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc. A big wine that matches well with an excellent roast lamb entree. I would not immediately peg it as Bordeaux, though, or even New World Merlot/Cab. Blackberry, black pepper and minerals. Good acidity and a medium long finish

 

Saturday, August 24, 2024

Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsula Whole Cluster Riesling, 2016

Whenever I visit Chateau Grand Traverse on Old Mission Peninsula (at least once or twice each summer), this Whole Cluster Riesling is nearly always my favorite wine of those tasted. And I usually buy a bottle or two to take home. This 2016 is drinking beautifully right now.

Medium deep yellow. Mellow scents and flavors of pears and ripe apples. Pleasantly full texture on the mid-palate that is the trademark of the Whole Cluster Riesling. Medium plus acidity and only a trace of sweetness. Some complexity starting to come through in the mellow finish.

Friday, August 23, 2024

Hidden Hill Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz, 2021

 As Australian wines have gone up in price, inexpensive Aussie Shiraz rarely shows up on the shelves of  Trader Joe's. This, Hidden Hills Estate, recently appeared, though, with a $5.99 price tag. It is well worth it.

The label cites McLaren Vale, which is a good appellation, but grapes for this wine actually come from Fleurieu, a peninsula jutting into the ocean halfway between McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek. The climate there is relatively cool, a good thing for Shiraz, in my opinion.

Deep and dark, bluish tints. Black raspberries, blackberries, anise with a , generous touch of black pepper, dark chocolate and coffee. A bold wine but with good acidity and moderate alcohol (14.5%). Drier than many Barossa Shiraz wines. Tannins are present on the mid-palate and finish but cause no problem with hearty, spicy foods.

Wednesday, August 21, 2024

Clos des Lune Lune d'Argent Bordeaux Blanc, 2017

A blend of Semillon (70%) and Sauvignon Blanc (30%). Clos des Lune Lune d'Argent is a dry wine made from grapes grown in Sautnrnes, better known, of course, for dessert wines. When consumed young, it is crisp and fresh similar to an oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc. This bottle, at seven years of age, has taken on a new personality centered on the rich texture and flavors of maturing Semillon. I like it.

Full gold color. Smells of ripe apples, fresh grass and melons. Flavors of figs and white peaches. Full bodied and rich but youthful acidity remains on the beautiful, complex finish. I love what age is doing to a wine that was also very pleasant in its youth. I have a few more bottles and will be in no hurry to drink them.

Monday, August 19, 2024

GD Vajra Langhe Rosso, 2020

The winery describes this as "a hug from Piedmont." And what a hug it is! GD Vajra's Langhe Rosso is an array of the riches of Piedmont wine: Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa, Pinot Noir a few other grapes. And the result is pure pleasure.

Bright red with violet tones. Voluptuous aromatics of Nebbiolo--rose petals, cherries, black licorice--but also the subtle scents typical of Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa and Pinot Noir. Extremely friendly on the palate but with no sacrifice of depth or complexity. A wine that comes at your palate from all directions with subtle and ever changing flavors. Would match well with any meal from pizza to beef bourguignon.  
 

Stephen Ross San Luis Obispo Coast Pinot Noir, 2021

The third and final Pinot tasted for our AWS National Tasting Project was this Stephen Ross San Luis Obispo Coast Pinot Noir from 2021. I found it quite good and a good value at about $25.

Medium light ruby shading to garnet. Cherries, red berries--fresh and bright. Rose petals, black tea and spices. Medium bodied with good acidity. Long, ripe finish. 94 points and Editor's Choice from Wine Enthusiast. I will be on the lookout for this wine.
 

Obsidian Wine Company Carneros Pinot Noir, 2021

This wine from Obsidian Wine Company was my favorite of the three Pinots we sampled for the AWS National Tasting Project.

Notably darker than the Rodney Strong. Medium ruby color, brilliant .Enticing aromas emerge. Rose petals, ripe red berries, vanilla, baking spices. Medium light body. Delicate and pretty. Long, ripe finish with good depth. Will cost you twice as much as the Rodney Strong but will give you twice as much pleasure.
 

Rodney Strong Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, 2021

Onward to the Pinot Noir segment of the AWS National Tasting Project. This Rodney Strong Pinot Noir, selling for $15.98 at Plum Market in Ann Arbor, is a real bargain for a Russian River Pinot. But it really didn't do much for me.

Medium dark garnet color. Aromas are slow to open. Cherries, plums, spice. Medium intensity flavors. Some complexity develops on the finish.Pleasant but lacks the excitement I expect from Russian River Pinot Noir.
 

Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Chardonnay, 2022

The final Chardonnay for our AWS National Tasting Project, this Santa Barbara Chardonnay sells for $26, and the winemaker, Jim Clendenen, says it will "age for at least another decade." This is my style of wine, and it is now on my buy list.

Brilliant, light straw color. White peaches, lemon zest, minerals and even a hint of flint. Good acidity and a long finish. The French oak barrels used for aging were mostly neutral but some spicy notes have been picked up from time spent maturing on its lees (spent yeast cells). Jim Clendenen is one of my favorite winemakers. I have enjoyed his Pinots and was glad to get a taste of his Chardonnay.

Clos Pegase Mitsuko's Vineyard Carneros Chardonnay, 2020

Next in line for the AWS National Tasting Project was this Carneros Chardonnay from Clos Pegase. Notably, those at our table who disliked the Frei Brothers wine were right on board with this one. I ranked it the lowest of the three Chardonnays.

Deeper, darker straw color and not as bright as the Frei Brothers. Aromas are a bit muted at first but open a bit as dthe wine aerates. Still lacks the enticing aromas that I found in the Frei Brothers. Ripe apple Carneros profile with a mellow finish. Medium intensity. According to the winery, the wine was barrel fermented "to increase the oak characteristic and develop complexity." Good wine but not my style, especially considering the retail price of $38.
 

Frei Brothers Russian River Sonoma Reserve Chardonnay, 2022

We tasted three California Chardonnays and three California Pinot Noirs yesterday for day #2 of the American Wine Society's National Tasting Project. This Russian River Charonnay from Frei Brothers was my favorite of the evening.

Beautiful light straw color, bright and clear. Looks elegant, and it is. Subtle floral aromas along with ripe apple, pear and minerals. Very focused with well defined fruit and good acidity. Elegant finish. Many at our table did not like this wine, probably because they like bolder, more buttery profiles in their Chardonnays. My descriptors for this wine would include "lacey," "delicate," "subtle." At $20 a bottle, I am a buyer.
 

Saturday, August 17, 2024

Domaine Jean Deydier et Fils Les Clefs d'Or Les Craus Centennaire, 2009

This special bottling of Les Clefs d'Or comes from Grenache vineyards planted in Les Craus in the 1890s. Yields are very low, resulting in high concentration of fabulous smells and flavors. It is produced only in good vintages such as 2005, 2007, 2009 and 2015. 

100% Grenache in 2009. Deep crimson, much darker than the 2000 regular bottling Then again it is nine years younger. Intense red berry fruit, ripe and concentrated. Absolutely astounding. Sweet but multi-dimensional lavors that grow and change as they glide over the tongue. Yes, this is a treasure of a wine. More ripe fruit, less spice and pepper than the 2000 Les Clefs d'Or Tradition, but that may change as the wine ages. 
 

Friday, August 16, 2024

Domaine Jean Deydier et Fils Les Clefs d'Or Chateauneuf du Pape, 2000

Les Clefs d'Or has some excellent vineyards in Chateaunuef du Pape, including very old Grenache vines in the highly regarded Les Craus. This is the Les Clefs d'Or Tradition bottling which blends grapes from all of the estate's vineyards.

Medium light with considerable bricking on a small pour. In a full glass, though, the wine shows a much deeper crimson. Smells and tastes like traditional Chateauneuf. Cherries, strawberries, sea salt. Savory. Beautiful Grenache red berry fruit becomes increasingly apparent as the wine airs. Peppery Southern Rhone spice on a delicious finish.

I have had six bottles of this 2000 over the past decade, and this bottle is definitely showing the best. Les Clefs d'Or wines age well.
 

Thursday, August 15, 2024

Tenuta di Arcena Chianti Classico DOCG, 2021


 Hidden away beside a fillling station at the junction of Highway 30 and Interstate 469 near Fort Wayne, IN is Salavatori's Ristorante. Salvatori's is a real gem, serving up huge portions of some of the best pasta dishes I have ever had...and at very modest prices. The wine list is modest with four or five choices of red or white wine for $10 glass. I ordered a glass of Chianti Classico, and it was so good I asked to see the bottle so I would know what I was drinking. Tenuta di Arcena is now on my buy list.

Bright ruby red. Dark cherries, blueberries, violets and blood oranges. Vibrant fruit and just the right level of acidity and plenty of flavor interest. Hint of black pepper on the slightly warm finish. Matches perfectly with the Rigatoni Basilicata.

Even though you can get a glass of it for only $10 at Salvatori's, Tenuta di Arcuna is not cheap, with a retail price of $25 to $30 a bottle. The person who knows how to make such incredible pasta sauces apparently also knows how to select wine.

Friday, August 9, 2024

Kirkland Signature Vacqueyras. 2022

I was a bit disappointed with the Yves Cheron Gigondas that cost me $15 a glass at Everyday People Cafe in Douglas, MI. The wine was good but lacked the special aromatic qualities I expect in a Gigondas. From the 2018 vintage, it is still young. Tonight, though, eating the leftovers of my rich pasta with meatballs dish, this younger Vacqueyras gives me what I want in a Southern Rhone wine. And it cost only $11.45 for a full bottle.

Bright crimson, medium deep, clearly traditionally made. Still young and takes a few minutes to open up, but the Southern Rhone traits are apparent. Garrigue that matches up well with the herbs in the pasta dish. Red and black fruits, licorice and black pepper. Good vacqueyras at an excellent price. I will be back for more.
 

Monday, August 5, 2024

Eden Valley Old Butts Shiraz, 1999

This wine was very good but fully mature when I had it three years ago. When I saw another bottle available at the same reserve price ($15) last December, I hesitated. Not many Australian wines are capable of going strong for 25 years. But remembering the pleasure I got from the last bottle, I just had to give it another try. And  I am glad I did..

The "old butts" are gnarled, tree-like vines like those you may have seen if you ever visited Gigondas in France. And the vines were 80 years old in 1999. The wine was aged in a combination of French and American oak, small barrels. And it is drinking beautifully tonight.

Light brick color of a mature wine. Entrancing smells reminiscent of one of my favorite wines, the Domaine Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage of Paul Jaboulet. Dried fruit, olives, leather, cured meats. Compact like fruit cake. More savory than sweet. Loads of complexity. And a finish that lingers long after the last sip.Special wine.

Saturday, August 3, 2024

Franco Serra Langhe Nebbiolo, 2015

I have enjoyed the Barbera d'Alba wines from Franco Serra for the past 10 to 15 years. At $10 to $12 a bottle, the are amazing values. Yet at the wine stores where I shop, the Langhe Nebbiolo, selling for only a dollar or two more, is rarely available. When I can find it, though, I buy it in quantity for it is an even a greater value.

Medium ruby with the orangeish rim that is the hallmark of good Nebbiolo. The entrancing aromatics of a good Barolo--rose petals, spices, herbs. And from there it just gets better. Licorice tinged cherry, bright and lovely. Tannins galore but fruit and acid to balance. Very dry. Complex finish.

 

Friday, August 2, 2024

DeLoach Vineyards Heritage Reserve California Pinot Noir, 2022

This is the entry level California Pinot Noir from Deloach, offered at $10 a glass at Zoorona Restaurant in Kalamazoo, but it has qualities that I expect to find in much more expensive Pinots from the Russian River area of northern California or the Willamette Valley of  Oregon.

Deep ruby red. Red and black berries, cherries and spice. Medium bodied. Classic Pinot texture in the mouth and lemon peel acidity on the finish. Reminds me of a Willamette Valley Pinot. Not your delicate Pinot Noir, it stands up well to spicy Middle Eastern fare but would also match up with salmon or lighter meat dishes. At $12 to $15 a bottle, this offers an excellent value.