Tuesday, July 7, 2026

Point Ormond Victoria Shiraz, 2020

There is, to my knowledge, no Point Ormond Winery, but the person or group that produces this wine clearly knows how to seek out good grapes from good vineyards--in this case, probably in Heathcote. It is moderate alcohol (13.6%), moderate oak and drinks beautifully from the time it is released. Moreover, it sells for about $15 retail--in my opinion, one of the best values in Australian Shiraz. I buy it every chance I get.

Medium deep violet. Lifted aromas of black and red fruits, eucalyptus and Mediterranean herbs. Tangy flavors with some tobacco and black pepper. I don't know how this wine will age but it drinks so beautifully right now that it's a shame to wait.
 

Hook and Ladder Spider Web Ranch Russian River Chardonnay, 2022

Spider Web Ranch is named after a huge, perfectly crafted spider web near this vineyard that produces similarly impressive Chardonnay wine. This bottling by Hook and Ladder typically sells for $35 to $40 a bottle, but I obtained it a couple of years ago for $22 from Wine Spies, an online site.

Medium deep gold. Beautiful lime and mineral smells and flavors. French oak speaking. Has the acidity and spice characteristic of Russian River Chardonnay but also has an incredibly ripe, rich mid-palate. Intricate spider web finish.
 

Friday, July 3, 2026

Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, 1995

This 1995 Thalabert has lived four additional years in the same cellar as the 1999 we drank on May 26. of this year.  Yet tonight it is showing at least four years younger than the highly rated 1999. I purchased (and cellared) both on release.

Good deep Syrah color with minimal amber at the edges. Beautiful fruit-filled bouquet from the moment the cork is popped. Black currants, cassis, lavender and a savory touch of black olives on the finish. Characteristic Northern Rhone acidity,but it's the fruit that is stealing the show right now. Only a few premature glimpses of the well aged Thalabert personality that I love so much. With all due respect, Mr. Parker, this is a better, more ageworthy vintage of Domaine Thalabert than your highly rated 1999. I have one more bottle of each and know which I will open first.

 

Wednesday, July 1, 2026

Ici la Bas Les Reveles Elke Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2009

I have had many bottles from many vintages (1996, 1997, 1998, 2006) of Ici la Bas It was made by the late Jim Clendenen of Au Bon Climat from grapes grown in Mary Elke's Donnelly Creek Vineyards. From vintage to vintage, it has always been excellent, confirming for me the high quality of Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. This 2009 measures up to the high standard although this bottle at least may be nearing the end of its best drinking window.

Has lightened considerably since the last bottle, and the aromas are bit less intense, although still very good. Cherries, red raspberries, earth. Tannins have faded but acidity is carrying it and may continue to do so. Fine Pinot texture and body. Long, savory finish.
 

Wednesday, June 24, 2026

Bava Nizza Piano Alto di Crena, 2014

In 2013, this wine was labeled as Barbera d'Asti. But in 2014 the Nizza region was given its own AOC, giving the area the status it has long deserved. Persons who know Piedmont wines should know that Nizza has the ideal limestone soil and micro-climate for growing Barbera and, as a result, some very old and esteemed vineyards. Nizza means Barbera just as Barolo and Barbaresco mean Nebbiolo.

Intense, deep ruby red with only a sliver of amber at the rim. Has been aged for 18 months in large (1500 liter) upright tanks. This wine is aging beautifully. Equally intense aromas of black currants and cherries. Dark tones of licorice and pepper on the palate. Ripe tannins plus the characteristic acidity of Barbera. Sweet fruit upfront with a rich mid-palate and black fruited complexity on the finish.

 

Tuesday, June 23, 2026

Azienda Agricola PACE Langhe Nebbiolo, 2018

This Langhe Nebbiolo comes from vineyards in Canale, in the Roero appellation, across the river from Barolo and Barbaresco.

Medium deep color with characteristic orangeish tints. Has probably been made traditionally in large Slavonian oak barrels rather than barriques. A  bit tannic on the first night but opens up beautifully on the second night. Violets, rose petals, red cherries, black  licorice. Medium bodied and well textured Plenty of grip but flavors flow freely. Still young but no need to wait. What Nebbiolo is all about.

 

Thursday, June 18, 2026

J-M Gerin Syrah La Champine, 2013

This Northern Rhone Syrah is just reaching the stage where the fruity flavors are beginning to evolve into savory ones. J-M Gerin is located in Cote Rotie, producing some very expensive wines that take those savory tones to their limit. This Syrah la Champine, though, is made with only a small quantity of estate fruit (from young vines) combined with grapes from IGP Collines Rhodaniennes. It's Gerin winemaking but not Gerin fruit and, as a result, is a relative bargain.

Still deep and dark with some bricking at the rim. Very expressive aromas--flowers, ripe black raspberries, anise. Savory notes of black olives with a hint of cured meats,  on the palate, qualities I love most about Northern Rhone Syrah and something rarely found in Syrah wines from the Southern Rhone or Australia. Acidity keeps it lively. Good wine.