Assyrtiko from Santorini

If you could see the way grapes are grown on the Greek Island of Santorini, you might be skeptical about the production of wine. They are grown in basket-like clusters rising only about a foot from the ground; no arbors needed. And if you knew that it rarely rains at any time during the year on this island, you would be even more skeptical. The grapes go it on their own, absorbing whatever moisture they can gather from sea breezes or from digging ever deeper into the alluvial soil. The "vines" are indigenous, pre-philloxera and have been producing wine grapes continuously for hundreds, if not thousands of years, with some time off for recovery from the volcano that devastated the island in 1600 BC. 

Of course, all of that is positive for the wine, if not entirely so for anyone wishing to make money from selling the wine. Yields are low and flavor concentration in the grapes is extremely high.

We spent an afternoon at Santo Winery, and their five-wine tasting flight was relatively expensive compared to other prices on the island but worth every sip. We had three Assyrtiko-based whites, one red and one naturally sweetened wine, Vin Santo. 

The first wine, Santorinio Assyrtiko, went through what the winery called "classic white winemaking," which basically meant without oak aging. Citric and floral with sea breeze tones and that intense mineral edge. Has probably had some lees contact.

Santo Wines Santorini Nykteri was 85% Assyrtiko with 10% Athiri and 5% Aidani--all from Santorini. It was aged for six months in French oak vats. Slightly deeper in color and richer on the palate. Citrus, green apple and pear with Assyrtiko minerals and a glorious finish.

Assyrtiko Santorini Grande Reserve was 100% Assyrtiko aged 12 months in medium toast French oak. Deep gold, full body. Complexity you might expect from a high-level white Burgundy--roasted nuts, spices, vanilla and toast. The winery predicts "long aging potential," something I would expect from all of the Assyrtiko wines.

Santo Wines Santorini Mavrotagano Dry Red Wine is 100% Mavrotagano aged 12 months in medium toast Frrench oak barrels. Ruby color. Intense red and black fruits. Tannins are showing on this wine and I would wait a few years before opening a bottle. I preferred some of the red wines I had in Athens, especially those made with Xinomavro.

Vin Santorini is a gorgeous sweet wine, similar to Amarone, made from sun-dried grapes. It is 85% Assyrtiko and 15% Aidani, sun dried for six to eight days followed by slow fermentation and at least 36 months in French oak barrels. Dried fruits and nuts. Very concentrated. Long, long after taste. Reminds me of a 20-year Tawny Port, although, unlike tawny ports, this wine will continue to age in the bottle. The 12- and 20-Year Vin Santo Wines were available at the winery but, unfortunately, not included in the tasting.

Greek Wines

I haven't had much experience with Greek wines since the 1970s when Retsina was the wine of choice at Greek Town in Chicago and Detroit. On a recent three-week trip to Athens and the Greek islands, I gained a very positive impression of Greek wines, both white and red. We never ordered expensive bottles (actually at 25 to 30 Euros a bottle not really expensive by US standards) but routinely ordered the house wine by the glass or half liter, usually 5 to 6 Euros for even for half a liter. I was never disappointed. The wines were always drinking beautifully with good balance and surprisingly complex flavor profiles. Many restaurants had barrels from which the wine was drawn so maybe the wines had gained some barrel aging complexities on site.

Most house reds were from the indigenous Agiorgitiko grape. They were medium to full bodied with a flavor profile similar to Merlot or Nero d'Avola. When available, I usually went for Xinomavro, a bolder wine with high acid, high tannin and intense smells and flavors reminiscent of Nebbiolo. Back home, it is now on my buy list.

Most house whites were Moschofilero--medium bodied with floral aromas and flavors of citrus and stone fruits. After visiting the island of Santorini and going to a tasting at Santo winery, I quickly became enamored of Assyrtiko, a wine with incredibly deep and complex mineral and fruit flavors. At restaurants, I was more than willing to shell out 50 cents extra for a glass of Assyrtiko, well aware that back home I would be paying dearly for the pleasure. Assyrtiko also goes on my buy list, although I am probably too cheap to find any in my price range.

Point Ormond Western Australia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2018

This 100% Cabernet produced by Point Ormond doesn't fit the profile of Margaret River Cabernets I have tasted in the past, but it is a good wine and an excellent value for the $11.99 I paid at Plum Market online in Ann Arbor.

Bright and deep Cabernet colors. More red fruit and less black currant than I expect from Western Australia Cabs. Aged for 14 months in French oak, 20% new but doesn't smell or taste oaky. Fruit is front and center and the wine is drinking very well at seven years of age. Good acid, good balance and a medium long finish. A good companion to the Point Ormond Victorian Shiraz ($15) that has become one of my every day favorites.
 

Penfolds Bin 389 Cabernet Shiraz, 2002

In Australia, Penfolds Bin 389  is highly regarded, often known as Baby Grange. Some of the American oak hogsheads in which it was matured were used the previous year for the iconic Penfolds Grange. This 2002 has aged fantastically over 24 years and still has a great deal of youthful charm as well as savory complexity. It is 54% Cabernet, 46% Shiraz from vineyards in McLaren Vale, Barossa, Padthaway, Border town and Langhorne Creek.

Vibrant deep red color. Red currants, cherries, mint, eucalyptus.Cabernet elegance is front and center. Fresh acidity, ripe tannins. The American oak has integrated fully, leaving only beautifully defined fruit. Silky texture and long, lovely finish.

This 2002 now sells for $160 in Australia and is certainly worth a premium. I bought my bottle for $19 at World Market, Kalamazoo in the days when the store sold wine.
 

Chateau Grand Travverse Old Mission Peninsula Gamay Noir Limited, 2021

In the late 1970s and early 1980s, when I first started getting interested in wines, Gamay was definitely not in style. It was a wine for beginners--a picnic wine. In my old age,  I now recognize Gamay as a serious wine grape with distinctive, elegant aromas and flavors, similar to Pinot Noir but good in its own right. The Gamay Noir from Chateau Grand Traverse is now my favorite Michigan red, more like Pinot Noir than the Pinot from the same estate.

Medium crimson. Bright strawberries, red plums, violets and pepper. Good lift and acidity compared to a Willamette Valley Pinot beside it at the table. At five years of age, it is drinking well, probably at or near its pea. The Gamay Noir Limited sells for $18 at the winery but can be had for $15 at many groceries in Kalamazoo, including Crosstown Fresh. It is a regular on my buying list.

 

Domaine du Grand Montmirail Gigondas Les Deux Juliettes, 2012

Les Deux Juliettes is named after the Juliette daughters of the French producer, Yves Cheron, and the American importer, Charles Neal. It is 80% Grenache from vines 55 to 65 years old, 15% Syrah and 5% Mourvedre from 30 year-old vines--all on alluvial soil in the  well regarded southeast corner of Gigondas.

Deep crimson. The quality is apparent from the first sniff: violets, red fruit, rosemary and thyme--bright and full of life. Dark cherries, wild strawberries, licorice and black pepper on the palate. Full bodied but with ripe, supple tannins and a long, delicious finish. Power and beauty--the essence of Gigondas. At least as good as my last bottle opened on April 7, 2024.
 

Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du Pape, 1995

This is my first go at the 1995 Pegau, after numerous bottles over the years of the 1988, 1989 and 1990 Cuvee Reservee.  It differs remarkably from these earlier vintages, but still shows the great viticulture of Paul Feraud and the great winemaking of his daughter, Laurrence,

Deep crimson, bright and clear. Cherries, red raspberries plus tertiary notes of black olives and leather. Particularly enticing for a Chateauneuf du Pape. Not as bold as the earlier vintages but with flavors than unfold beautifully over the course of the meal. Others on Cellar Tracker have compared it to red 'Burgundy, and I agree. Ripe tannins, good acidity to balance and a long, glorious finish.

My bottles of this wine were imported by J.C. Mathes of J et R and the label gives the alcohol content as 13.5%. Other tasters, who apparently have bottles imported by Dan Kravitz, report ABV as 14.5 to 15.5%.