Courtois La Source Cotes du Rhone, 2021

Although "La Source" is a simple Cotes du Rhone, sold at CDR prices ($12 to $14), the Jaume family's vineyards are in Vinsobres, which is a designated CDR cru village. It is 85% Grenache, 15% Syrah.

Bright ruby. Black raspberries, boysenberries, dark tones of peppercorn and black licorice.  Fresh fruit and approachable tannins coupled with the complex savory qualities of a top Southern Rhone. Fills out substantially on the second night and even the third. Good now, will get even better.

Domaine de la Roquete Chateauneuf du Pape, 2006

I am amused to think that this bottle is now in its 20th year; yet I think of it as one of my "young" Chateauneufs. I expect to open the 1988 Vieux Telegraphe for my birthday next week and know that the only surprises I will get will be positive ones.

The Brunier brothers of Vieux Telegraphe bought this estate in the early 2000s because they liked the old vineyards on the Plateau of Pielong. The soil is sandier than that of Vieux Telegraphe and, as a result, produces wines that are more accessible early. As stated on the label, the Bruniers' "priority is to express the character of the local terroir."

Good Chateauneuf color, bright and relatively dark. Has some sediment crust on one side; it has not been fined or filtered. 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre. Dark cherry, raspberry with a touch of menthol and garrigue. Strong fruit presence with a youthful edge but also the savory traits that I love in Chateauneuf du Pape. Great concentration and depth. 

 

E. Guigal Cote Rotie Cote Brune et Blonde, 1990

This is mature Northern Rbone Syrah at its best. Even from a 375 ml bottle at 36 years of age, it is drinking beautifully.

The color has lightened, of course, with brickish tones. And the smells and flavors are tertiary. Red and black fruits, savory, salty, meaty. Proper acidity: cured meats and grilled tomatoes. Light in body with a cool, silky texture. Nuanced flavors that keep growing through the meal. During my birthday month, I am drinking cellar treasures, and this is by far the best I have had so far.
 

Buena Vista Sonoma Valley Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon, 1978

The 1970s was a good decade for wine--at home or across the ocean. For my birthday month, I have been drinking up some of the oldest wines in my cellar, and so far I have not been disappointed. The 1975 Fourcas Hosten Haut Medoc was shockingly good at 51 years; this Buena Vista Cabernet is even better at age 48. The appellation is Sonoma Valley rather than Napa but the vines were actually in the Sonoma portion of Carneros, now reserved mainly for Napa Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The cool climate has created  a Cabernet that is elegant, silky and clearly ageworthy.

The color has lightened with garnet/amber tones. The cork was sound and dry with wine stain less than a quarter of the way up from the bottom of the cork. I bought the wine soon after release at the old Sam's Wine store near the subway on North Streetr in Chicago. $11.95 says the sticker, a markdown from $13.95. Smells and flavors are glorious after all that time in the bottle. Ripe strawberry, red currants,  sweet spices. Could easily be mistaken for a mature Pinot Noir. No tannin but enough acid to brighten the flavors. I'm sure the wine was even better 10 years ago, but tonight I have no complaints.

Fourcas Hosten Haut Medoc Listrac, 1975

Yes, 51 years is a long time for a wine to be in a bottle, but this is one of the rare few that have made it that long in good shape. But 53 years is a long time for a couple to be married, and that marriage is doing even better. The 1975 Fourcas Hosten, served wih lamb shanks, proved to be a good anniversary wine.

On a small tasting pour, the color is medium light with amber creeping in from the edges. But on a full pour, it is almost opaque! Lifted bouquet with a touch of mint and herbs. Sweet Cabernet and Merlot flavors on a savory, slightly salty background. Not soft but no obstructive tannins. Red fruit acidity keeps it fresh and lively. 

1975 was a very backward vintage in Bordeaux and critics worried that the fruit would not outlast the tannins. As the Village Corner salesman told me,  this wine, selling for only $9.95, was an exception. "Just give it time," he said. And I did.
 

Carpe Diem Anderson Valley Chardonnay, 2019

This is my last bottle of Carpe Diem, and I think I seized the day fairly accurately. It has beautiful Chardonnay flavors but has deepened in color and beginning to show its age.

Medium deep gold. Showing a maturity that I like in a Chardonnay. Pear, citrus, flowers. Lively on the tongue with a fine array of flavors on the finish.Some Chardonnays are best at 3 to 5 years; some at 5 to 7 and a few (very few) will last 10 years or longer.  I rank this one in the mid-range and would gladly go back for more from a recent vintage
 

Trader Joe's Platinum Reserve Bersano Estate Nizza Lot 117, 2019

Nizza is Barbera at its finest. The appellation includes ony18 villages in Monferrato that was, according to the label, "the historic home of Barbera." Soil and climate are perfect, vines have a classic ancestry that defines Barbera. 

Dark ruby, bright and clear. Has been aged 30 months, at least 12 of which were in wood. From the aromas and flavors, I would say that some of the wood was new. Vibrant red cherry with leather tones. Layered flavors, nuanced and complex. Medium body, bright acidity. Silky texture. I bought this last year for $14.99; the 2020 vintage is now on the shelves for $15.99--still an excellent value.