Pelissero Langhe Nebbiolo, 2015

This is truly a baby Barbaresco, sourced from Nebbiolo vineyards in the villages of Barbaresco, Neive and Treiso that are not yet old enough (15 years or less) to produce great Barbaresco.

Medium dark ruby all the way to the rim. None of the orangeish tones characteristic of traditional Barbaresco or Barolo; 20 to 30% has been aged in new oak barriques. Maceraton was shorter than the estate uses for its Barbaresco bottlings, but there is still plenty of tannic grip. Bouquet shows fresh fruit and spice but is a bit light on the floral tones of Nebbiolo. Fuller bodied than I expect from Barbaresco grapes. Red and black raspberry flavors framed by tannin. I expect more complex flavors tomorrow night after these tannins have softened a bit.
 

Willakenzie Willamette Valley Estate Chardonnay, 2018

Dijon Clone #76 Chardonnay sourced mainly from a one acre south facing vineyard on the estate's Willakenzie soil, given partial malolactic fermentation then aged 16 months in a combination of new and used French oak. At eight years, it is giving me everything I expect from a Chardonnay.

Medium light, lighter than I would expect from an eight-year-old wine. Removed from the refrigerator and opened 20 minutes before drinking, it offers up beautiful scents and flavors. Lemon curd on toasted brioche. Pears, ripe apples and minerals on the finish. Medium bodied (13.8% alcohol) and beautifully balanced. Will keep and may improve over the next two or three years. One of my all-time favorites.
 

Curto Marco di Nadia Curto L'Informale, 2024

The label on Nadia Curto's l'Informale does not gives a vintage date because she does not want the wine to be tucked away in the cellar but rather used for current drinking and informal occasions. I bought vintages sold at Saratoga Wine Exchange as 2023 and 2024; the alcohol content (12%) and the lighter body tells me this wine was from 2024 when the weather was cooler than in warm 2023 when the alcohol content was 13.5%. No worries; I have had both years and both are delightful.

Don't be misled by the  light ruby color and light body; there is nothing weak kneed about this wine. Delightfully fresh and vibrant scents and flavors. Like a glistening bowl of fresh red berries. Also flowers, minerals and the complexity of Nebbiolo. About 60% Nebbiolo and 40% Dolcetto vinified separately, both in stainless steel, then blended. Despite the color, this wine has plenty of strength and power and matches up well with rigatoni with oven roasted tomatoes, onions and peppers. I am still tasting the ripe fruit half an hour later.

 

Domaine de Font-Sane Ventoux Vieilles Vignes, 2023

I have a long-standing relationship with Ventoux, and Font-Sane was one of my favorites during the 1990s. I was delighted to find a few bottles of the 2023 through Dick Scheer and Village Corner in Ann Arbor.

Medium deep ruby, brilliant and intense. Needs a half hour or so of aeration to show its best. Violets, black raspberries and a touch of black pepper. Medium bodied, good acidity. Fresh and fruit-oriented but also some tannic structure that I think will carry it beyond the 2 to 3 years advised on the label

J.M. Gerin Syrah La Champine, 2013

The label for this French Syrah says that it will be "easy to drink now and for the next five years. I'm sure it was delicious during that period but it is also very good at 13 years of age tonight; much better, I imagine, for my taste because it has taken on secondary and tertiary notes that are characteristic of Northern Rhone Syrah. It was aged in old oak barrels rather than the new oak that Gerin uses for its very high priced Cote Rotie wines. And only some of the grapes come from young vines on the Gerin estate in Cote Rotie with the majority coming from the less acclaimed Collines Rhodaniennes nearby.

Very deep and dark Syrah color. Aromas were somewhat reduced on bottles we had a few months ago, but they open up nicely tonight: black raspberry, anise and spice. Medium bodied; ripe and supple on the palate.  Yes, very easy to drink. But what I like most are those nuanced notes on the mid-palate and finish: black berries, black pepper, black olives. I say it is easy to drink now and maybe even for the next few years.
 

Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Chardonnay, 2012

I knew this wine might be past its prime, when I bid on it (at a good price). But I also knew that Oregon Chardonnays have the acidity to age well for 10 years or more, and I wanted to test the outside limits. Yes, it is past its prime, but, in my view, it has much more to offer than 90% of the Chardonnays on the shelves for current drinking.

Deep gold, bright but showing its age. Lemon curd and green apples; similar profile to other WVV Chardonnays I have had but not as lively or fresh as the 2022 Dijon Clone. Develops some nice biscuity tones as it warms and airs.

 

Assyrtiko from Santorini

If you could see the way grapes are grown on the Greek Island of Santorini, you might be skeptical about the production of wine. They are grown in basket-like clusters rising only about a foot from the ground; no arbors needed. And if you knew that it rarely rains at any time during the year on this island, you would be even more skeptical. The grapes go it on their own, absorbing whatever moisture they can gather from sea breezes or from digging ever deeper into the alluvial soil. The "vines" are indigenous, pre-philloxera and have been producing wine grapes continuously for hundreds, if not thousands of years, with some time off for recovery from the volcano that devastated the island in 1600 BC. 

Of course, all of that is positive for the wine, if not entirely so for anyone wishing to make money from selling the wine. Yields are low and flavor concentration in the grapes is extremely high.

We spent an afternoon at Santo Winery, and their five-wine tasting flight was relatively expensive compared to other prices on the island but worth every sip. We had three Assyrtiko-based whites, one red and one naturally sweetened wine, Vin Santo. 

The first wine, Santorinio Assyrtiko, went through what the winery called "classic white winemaking," which basically meant without oak aging. Citric and floral with sea breeze tones and that intense mineral edge. Has probably had some lees contact.

Santo Wines Santorini Nykteri was 85% Assyrtiko with 10% Athiri and 5% Aidani--all from Santorini. It was aged for six months in French oak vats. Slightly deeper in color and richer on the palate. Citrus, green apple and pear with Assyrtiko minerals and a glorious finish.

Assyrtiko Santorini Grande Reserve was 100% Assyrtiko aged 12 months in medium toast French oak. Deep gold, full body. Complexity you might expect from a high-level white Burgundy--roasted nuts, spices, vanilla and toast. The winery predicts "long aging potential," something I would expect from all of the Assyrtiko wines.

Santo Wines Santorini Mavrotagano Dry Red Wine is 100% Mavrotagano aged 12 months in medium toast Frrench oak barrels. Ruby color. Intense red and black fruits. Tannins are showing on this wine and I would wait a few years before opening a bottle. I preferred some of the red wines I had in Athens, especially those made with Xinomavro.

Vin Santorini is a gorgeous sweet wine, similar to Amarone, made from sun-dried grapes. It is 85% Assyrtiko and 15% Aidani, sun dried for six to eight days followed by slow fermentation and at least 36 months in French oak barrels. Dried fruits and nuts. Very concentrated. Long, long after taste. Reminds me of a 20-year Tawny Port, although, unlike tawny ports, this wine will continue to age in the bottle. The 12- and 20-Year Vin Santo Wines were available at the winery but, unfortunately, not included in the tasting.