Tuesday, February 28, 2017

Val de Sil Valdeorras Godello, 2008

From 2012, when I opened my first bottle until tonight, this wine has changed about as much as any white wine I have tasted. It had bright lemon acidity in its youth, and I compared it to a good Sancerre or Premier Cru Chablis. Over five years, it has maintained its intensity while broadening and gaining incredible complexity.

Now a deep gold color. The bouquet jumps out at me as soon as I pull the cork. Very powerful. Mostly flowers but also some minerals, nutmeg and lemon zest. On the palate, it has a huge presence for a white wine. Coats the tongue with a range of flavors. Now I know what Godello is all about.

Sunday, February 26, 2017

Jean Descombes Morgon, 2002

I am a big fan of Jean Descombes Morgon and consider it an excellent value at $10 to $12 a bottle. It also ages very well for a cru Beaujolais.

The color has faded a lot since my last bottle of the 2002 a couple of years ago. From a deep ruby to a rusty brick red. The bouquet, though, is still fruit-oriented and lovely. Cherries, pomegranates, violets. Has gained delicacy with age but still has full fruit flavors with medium ripeness.

Tuesday, February 21, 2017

Chateau d'Epire Savennieres, 1982

The red tag on the bottle tells me that I paid all of $5.25 for this wine. And I bought and drank plenty of it--because of the price and because of the quality. I remember its rich, vibrant fruit when it was young--better than any California Chardonnay could deliver for a comparable price.

The only place I knew that sold Savennieres was Village Corner in Ann Arbor, and the sale booklet produced by Dick Scheer and his staff every other month provided ample information about the appellation, the wine and the producer. What I learned from reading the booklet and drinking the wine is all that more meaningful tonight as I enjoy yet another bottle of a 37-year-old white wine that is seemingly immortal.

The color is incredible for a wine of this age--deep gold but not overly so and still bright and lively. The bouquet has the complexity that you would expect but, again, clean and beautifully focused. Does not seem at all old. White peaches soaked in anise. A touch of honey. The flavors are even better. Sea salt and minerals. A pleasing touch of sweetness that goes right down the middle of the tongue and leaves a long after taste. Silken texture. Still good acidity but no hard edges.

I had a disappointing bottle of this in 2008 and had almost written it off. Glad I gave it another try. This should make it into my top 10 list for 2017.

Wednesday, February 15, 2017

Phillips Hill Toulouse Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2006

The label sums up what Anderson Valley Pinot Noir is all about: "difficult as it is to grow Pinot when you have to fight the climate or the soil, here it grows as if it were a nursery for angels." The pure fruit qualities of the grape just seem to develop effortlessly in this cool, foggy valley near the Pacific Coast. It's my favorite source for Pinot Noir wines, ranking even higher than Oregon or the Burgundy region of france.

We tasted at Toulouse Winery near Philo several years ago and were impressed by the fruit quality. This may be even better than the Toulouse Estate Pinot, which is very good indeed.

Beautiful ruby with slight bricking. Scents of red raspberries, cherries, mint and green tea. Lacy Pinot texture and bright fruit flavors. Long and ripe. Gets better with every sip.

Monday, February 13, 2017

Parducci Mendocino County Pinot Noir, 2013

When I saw this Pinot on the wine list (Cafe4 in Knoxville, TN), I knew it was good because I have several bottles in my own cellar. I paid $4.79 for my bottles, but I had no hesitation paying $7 a glass for the glass tonight. It is worth that...and maybe more.

Deep ruby, Cherries, red berries and spice. Has the depth of fruit of Mendocino Pinot Noir, Medium full on palate. Firm fruit on finish. The $4.79 price was a special; wish I could find more at that price. This is a very good North Coast Pinot.

Saturday, February 4, 2017

Moillard Cotes du Rhone Les Violettes, 2013

If it hadn't been for the name, I might have missed the violets in this Cotes du Rhone. It's definitely internationaly-styled with very little of the peppery, spicy rusticity that I love in a Southern Rhone. If I were drinking it blind, I might think it were a New World blend of some sort. Nevertheless, it is very attractive--smooth, medium bodied and moderately ripe. As it airs over the course of the meal, I detect more of the ripe Grenache berry. Nice wine but cheap at half the price. For $16 to $18, I can find much better options.

I had this as a wine by the glass at the excellent Lazy Goat Restaurant in Greenville, SC.

Thursday, February 2, 2017

La Guita Manzanilla Sherry (bottled 2016)

I have to admit my ignorance about sherry, but I know that Fino and Manzanilla are usually best when freshly bottled. As a result, many of these wines are past their prime by the they reach our shores. I had some good examples in Spain last summer, and this La Guita is another.

Very light color. I get an immediate whiff of oxidation, but that is part of the plan with Sherry. It quickly fades into the background behind fresh scents of sea brine, green olives and yeast. The flavors are also fresh and blend beautifully with tapas from Curate, an excellent Spanish restaurant in Asheville, NC. Patatas brava, skewered lamb, Catalan spinach and Catalan sausage. I really felt like I was back in Barcelona or Seville. Good sherry, great food.

Domaine du Vieux Lazaret Chateauneuf du Pape, 2013

Most of the Chateauneufs in my cellar were purchased a decade or more ago when even the best bottles from the best vintages were available for less than $20 a bottle. Chateauneuf du Pape wines age very well over two or three decades, but they are also very good when tasted young, as this 2013 Vieux Lazaret demonstrates.

The color is not particularly dark but has bright, clear crimson tones. At least this bottling of Vieux Lazaret is aged in large, old oak foudres. From the first sniff, the origin of this wine is indisputable; it has all the hallmarks of a fine traditional Chateauneuf. Bright red fruits, pressed flowers, spices and pepper. Mellow in the mouth with compact fruit and old vine intensity. Long finish. 14% alcohol is apparent but in a positive way and in line with CdP tradition. The wine is well proportioned and well balanced. A delight now with a promise of more to come.

Even though Vieux Lazaret sells for about $40 a bottle, I was able to get a three-ounce pour for only $10 at a unique place--Battery Square Book Exchange and Champagne Bar in Asheville, NC. Yes, I could spend an afternoon just browsing the reading matter in this fantastic new and used book store. And I can also order and drink 25 to 50 wines and champagnes by the glass, including some high-end wines available in one-ounce, three-ounce, five ounce or 10-ounce pours. This is my type of place; next time I'm ordering the 2010 Ceretto Barbaresco. We saw little groups everywhere: four women who call themselves WWW, Women Who Wine; two men getting together for coffee and a roll; a group upstairs discussing 19th century history; young college couples exploring the stacks. It's a place to be alone or together exploring books and wine.