19 Crimes The Punishment Southeast Australia Pinot Noir, 2021

Our local Trader Joe's store recently offered a range of 19 Crimes wines for $4.99, less than half regular price. Australia is better known for Shiraz than Pinot Noir, but, after trying both, it was the Pinot Noir that I went back for. For the price, it is a good every day choice for lighter meals.

Medium ruby. Full range of red fruit flavors--red raspberry and strawberry--plus vanilla and a touch of citrus zest. Light bodied, as it should be, with medium acidity, which is a plus for a low-end Australian wine.
 

Carpe Diem Anderson Valley Chardonnay, 2019

I love Anderrson Valley Pinot Noir, and it makes sense that the Valley would be a good spot for Chardonnay as well. Roederer, the French maker of high quality Champagne, apparently thought so when it purchased land in the Anderson Valley to produce sparkling (Scharffenberger) and still (Carpe Diem, Domaine Anderson) wines.

Medium light straw color. Expressive aroma of freshly mowed grass.and aromatic herbs. Bright fruit on the palate: peaches and grapefruit. Medium body with a silky texture. Finishes with the sweet/tart beauty of a fresh Red Haven peach. I like it.

This wine ordinarly sells for $23 to $30 a bottle. My local grocery, Midtown Fresh in Kalamazoo,  has it now for $11.99 with a 10% discount for five bottles or more. After tasting, I went back for six more.

Phillips Hill Oppenlander Mendocino Pinot Noir, 2006

I recently received a notice that the Phillips Hill Winery will close at the end of this year after 20 years of business. Toby Hill, the owner, will now resume his career as a visual artist. I am very sad because I have enjoyed many excellent Pinot Noirs from this winery, including this one from Oppenlander Vineyard in the small community (population, 167) of Comptche, California.

Medium light ruby, clear and bright. Even at 17 years of age, smells and flavors are fresh and intense. Cherries, red plums, baking spices and a hint of blood orange on the finish. Lovely Pinot weight and texture. Special wine. 
 

E Pirra & Figli (Chiara Boschis) Langhe Nebbiolo, 2012

Compared to the large-scaled Barolos produced at this estate, this Langhe Nebbiolo is described on the label as a "youthful expression" of the grape and a "kinder, more delicate wine." It comes from young vines in Monforte d'Alba and was aged for one year in small oak barrels (barriques).

Medum garnet color. The bouquet is a bit muted at first but vigorous swirling produces scents of violets and Morello cherries. Yes, it is a bit "kind" and "delicate" on the palate, perhaps more than I would prefer. No oohs and aahs with this wine. But no mehs, either. Medium tannin, medium acidity, good balance that carries the mellow fruit flavors.
 

Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsula Gamay Noir Reserve, 2017

This is the big brother of the Gamay Noir Limited (see below). It has been aged 40 months in barrel compared to 4 months for the GN Limited. And it sells for $30 compared to $16 for the Limited. Tasting the two side by side, though, I clearly prefer the little brother.

Much darker in color than the Limited and fuller in the mouth. The flavors have blended together, as you would expect with long-term aging. Round and rich in texture. What I miss, though, compared to the Limited, are the clearly delineated flavors of tart cherry and black pepper. I like it but will put my money on the cheaper Gamay Noir and drink it more frequently.
 

Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsula Gamay Noir Limited, 2020

With cool, overcast summers, Michigan is not the place to make big, tannic, dark colored red wines. This lighter bodied Gamay Noir has been and still is my favorite Michigan red.

Light in color, not unlike a Pinot Noir. From the first sniff, I am hooked. Tart cherries, black pepper and citrus zest. Beautiful. Very much like a Pinot Noir but better than any Michigan Pinot I have tasted. Light in body, big in flavor. Can be enjoyed now or later. At $14 to $16 a bottle, a good buy for frequent service.
 

Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsula Block 12 Riesling, 2021

 

British wine wrtier Jancis Robinson turned me on to this wine. After tasting numerous Rieslings from many different countries, she found this one from Michigan to be her No. 1 choice. The vineyard that was then Block 49 is now known as Block 12, and I buy a bottle or two every vintage. Compared to the Dry Riesling ($15) and the Whole Cluster ($16), Block 12 sells for $20 and is worth every penny.

As the name suggests, this Riesling comes from a specific vineyard that has established itself as worthy of a special bottling. The Riesling vines here come from Alsace (Clone #49) rather than Germany, and the difference is apparent in the flavors and textures.  Gorgeous smells and flavors--deep and complex. Granny Smith apple, minerals, white flowers, slight petrol. 11% alcohol, somewhat sweeter than the Dry Riesling and the Whole Cluster Riesling but with good acidity to balance. Lingering flavors that tease the palate. Of the three very good Rieslings I tasted today, this was my clear favorite.

Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mision Peninsula Whole Cluster Riesling, 2021

The Whole Cluster Riesling from Chateau Grand Traverse is richer and fuller on the palate than the Dry Riesling. It is also a tad sweeter, but it is sweetness derived from the excellent fruit and well balancy by cristp acidity. The Whole Cluster method involves pressing the grapes and the stems without crushing.

Green apple, pear with just a hint of Riesling petrol. Medium to full body and a great mouthfeel. 10.6 alcohol. This wine is usually an annual purchase for me, and I have found that it drinks nicely at 8 to 10 years of age.
 

Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsula Dry Riesling, 2021

When I go to Leelanau and Old Mission Peninsulas, Chateau Grand Traverse is always at the top of my wine tasting list. Rieslings there are typical of the Old Mision appellation and very good.

This Dry Riesling is perfectly tailored to my taste. Dry and unmistakably Riesling in personality. Expressive flavors of grapefruit, green apples and petrol with a clean, crisp finish. 10.5% alcohol. At $15, a great value.
 

Chateau Reynella Basket Pressed McLaren Vale Cabernet Merlot, 1994

I paid $7.99 for this wine at D&W in Kalamazoo when it was released nearly 30 years  ago.. I believe Brian Cain was handling wine for D&W at that time, and he always brought in a great selection of affordable Australian and Southern Rhone wines. We drank many bottles of this and the Basket P ressed Shiras back then, and I believe I even served some at my daughter's wedding in 2005. Even then, though, this wine never showed the nobility that it is showing tonight.

Still a deep, dark robe of color when a full glass is poured. A classic Cabernet Merlot but definitely New World in its style. Red currants, black currants and a lifted note of mint. Rich, rich flavors. Dusty tannins with more acidity than is typical of an Australian red. More red than black currants. Elegance personified.
 

Domaine de Pallus Messanges Rouge Chinon, 2016

Messanges is produced from young vines at Domaine de Pallus, and it is made for frequent every day service. I find it a classic example of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc.

Medium ruby with garnet shading in from the rim. Floral aromatics. Also expressive Cab Franc fruit. Cranberry, bitter cherry with savory notes of Cab Franc dirt.
 

Elio Sandri Barbera d'Alba Superiore, 2012

Elio Sandri is a traditionalist with vineyards in the hills near Monforte d'Alba, just east of Barolo.

Deep and dark. Red and black berries, underbrush and spice. Broad shouldered for a Barbera. High tannin, high alcohol (14.5%) and the high acid that is typical of Barbera. Perhaps a big too big for what I want in a Barbera, but the well delineated red and black fruit flavors carry through nicely to a long finish.

 

Domaine des Baumard La Caleche Vin Blanc Sec, 2019

Jean Baumard makes some of the best Chenin Blanc wines in the world; his Clos du Papillon Savennieres is truly heaven in a glass. La Caleche is the wine he has produced for "informal meals." It is 50% Chenin Blanc, 50% Chardonnay, and it is so good I could drink it every night.

Deep Chenin Blanc gold. And Chenin Blanc is also present in the beautiful aromas and flavors. Fresh peach, pear, canteloupe and a bit of honey. A mineral edge on the finish. Fresh and lively with a leesy richness on the palate. Very dry and only 12% alcohol. We had La Caleche with pesto pasta, but I can't think of any meal that would not be flattered by this wine.
 

Edna Road 500 Ranch Edna Valley Chardonnay, 2019

This is probably the best in-house Chardonnay I have ever found at Trader Joe's. At $6 a bottle, I bought a 12-bottle case because the label stated that it was Estate Grown and Bottled from the Edna Valley appellation. Even Edna Valley Vineyards gives you Central Valley rather than Edna Valley grapes in its basic Chardonnay. And this wine is the real thing, getting better four years after the vintage date.

Medium deep yellow. Smells fresh and lively. Ripe apples, buttered toast, yeast and a bit of spice on the finish. Medium bodied, medium acidity, mellow finish. I have looked for this wine every time I have been to Trader Joe's over the past two years but never found it again. I don't think there is an Edna Road or 500 Ranch Winery.
 

Tuatea Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, 2022

Sauvignon Blanc has many faces. Some have prominent green bell pepper smells and flavors, deriving from pyrazines, and many tasters love this quality. For me, the aggressive green element makes a wine, red or white, almost undrinkable. This New Zealand Sauvignon has pepper in its personality, but it is jalapeno rather than green bell pepper, and I find that much more agreeable. It indicates, I presume, a lower level of pyrazines.

Light, bright yellow with green tints. Fresh and lively. Jalapeno, honeydew melon and lemon grass. Medium light body. Clean, persistent finish. Available for $6.99 at my local Trader Joe's, this is an excellent choice if you are looking for an every day, mid-week white.

Vicente Gandia Simue Ribera del Duero Temperanillo Robles, 2011

Now in its 12th year, this Temperanillo from the Ribera del Duero appellation (Spain) is drinking well.

Medium deep ruby. Bright color. Red fruit and spice. Primary aromas and flavors. Intense raspberry fruit flavors with tongue tingling acidity. I bought a case and will be in no hurry to drink up the remaining bottles.

Maison Leroy Bourgogne Rouge, 1990

Great grapes make great wines. Madame Bize Leroy knows how to select great grapes even if they do not all come from the Leroy family's famed holdings at Domaine la Romanee Conti. And this bottle is very, very good even though it has been exposed to less than ideal condition. 

I bought a case of this Maison Leroy Bourgogne Rouge 1990 on futures for about $149/case. For a particularly good vintage, that was a good buy even in the early 1990s. When the case was delivered, the wine had clearly been exposed to high temperatures, and some bottles had leaked. I registered a respectful complaint but did not demand a refund since I had gotten a good price for a wine that I really wanted to drink. Because I was aware of the damage, I drank the case more quickly than I might have done, and the wine was really pretty good, better than other Bourgogne Rouge wines from that vintage and others.

As often happens, the final lonely bottle sat in my cellar for 30 years, and I assumed it was probably dead. But when my Cellar Tracker Pro software informed me that the wine is now worth $253, I had to open the cork. There were no stains on the label and little or no ullage from the bottle. The cork was recessed but tight and difficult to extract--apparently a good seal after the initial trauma Who knows what this wine might have been had it not been exposed to heat during its youth? But what is in my glass does not disappoint at all.

Medium ruby, clear and bright.  Looks as young as ever. The bouquet is slow to open, but intense flavors are apparent immediately and get even better as the wine airs. Small red berries and spice. The texture is what Pinot Noir is all about. Light on the tongue but with a tensile strength. Ripe fruit that is suprisingly youthful but with the complex nuances that come with long aging.  My experience with fine red Burgundy is limited, but this bottle is probably the best I have had. I don't buy $250 wines, but I just drank one. No complaints.

Wind Gap Gap's Crown Vineyard Chardonnay, 2013

Wind Gap Vineyard, located on the western slope of Sonoma Mountain, is one of California's coolest sites, with plenty of sunshine, daily fog and temperatures conducive to slow ripening of grapes...and great flavors. Wind Gap's 2013 Chardonnay from Wind Gap Vineyard is drinking beautifully at age 10.

Medium deep yellow. This wine requires warmer temperature than most Chardonnays. As it warms and aerates, the flavors come forth. Citrus, pears, almonds. Great acidity--almost too much at first before the wine warms in the glass. Then the flavors come through, mellow, rich and complex.
 

Domaine Brusset Les Chabriles Vieilles Vignes Cairanne, 2014

This is classic Carianne, one of my favorite appellations in the Southern Rhone. Brusset is one of several fine estates in Cairanne, and Les Chabriles is truly old vine: 60% Grenache from vineyards planted 1915-918 and 40% Syrah from vines planted in the mid-1960s.

Deep crimson, much darker than I expect from Cairanne, but then the cuvee has 40% Syrah. Intense Southern Rhone bouquet from the moment the cork is popped. The Syrah makes its presence felt with dark fruits and black pepper but there is plenty of Grenache cherry and red berry. Medium weight. The tannic backbone is always present, but it is friendly, fruit-filled and balanced nicely by an acidic edge. Good fruit definition on the finish. The label says can be cellared for 10 years, and, at age 9, it is doing quite well. If I had more, I would be in no hurry to drink them.

Tuatea Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc, 2022

Marlborough in New Zealand is a good source of inexpensive Sauvignon Blanc. The sunny but cool climate produces crisp, high acid fruit that is typical of Sauvignon Blanc. Tuatea, which sells for $6.99 at Trader Joe's is one of my favorites.

Medium light straw. Bright and clear. Fresh, clean inviting smells and flavors. Lemons, lime zest, mint, honeydew melon and a bit of jalapeno on the finish. I am not big on the green bell pepper trait that occurs in some cool climate Sauvignons, but jalapeno adds some complexity and interest. At the price, I am a frequent buyer.
 

Pelassa Antaniolo Roero Riserva DOCG, 2011

This wine is 100% Nebbiolo from Roero, the hilly area just across the river from the more well known (and expensive) Barolo and Barbaresco appellations. Because they are less expensive and usually more fruit forward, I am prone to drink Roero Nebbiolos with every day fare but they are often serious dinner wines that can be aged for many years.

Beautiful bright ruby. Fragrant but not showy. Bing cherries, roses, aromatic spices. Black licorice tones emerge on the palate. Ripe and full bodied but tannins are supple and well balanced with acidity. Cherry tinged finish. As the winery claims, it should be "listed among the wines calling for maximum attention." Even though we drank it on a week night with grass fed beef hamburger, I gave it maximum attention, and found it more than worthy.

 

Calstar Cellars Londer Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2009

Rick Davis, owner of Calstar Cellars, has been winemaker at several estates, including Londer Vineyards in the deep end of the Anderson Valley. The well chosen fruit for this wine comes from Londer Estate.

Medium light garnet. I gave this bottle about two hours' aeration, and it benefited greatly. My first sip after pulling the cork was ripe and pleasant. By the end of two hours, I was getting deep, concentrated, complex fruit flavors. Red cherries, raspberries, spice. Depth and concentration that comes from slow ripening in a well situated vineyard. Acidity that makes it dance on the tongue. I have had the 2007 vintage of this wine several times; this 2009 is much better.
 

Soter Vineyards North Valley Willamette Valley Chardonnay, 2013

Willamette Valley is the Oregon appellation known for high quality Pinot Noir (and, in recent years, Chardonnay) wines. Yet, as the label of this wine points out, the sub-appellations of the North Valley have the best claims in terms of soil and micro-climate. This North Valley Chardonnay from Soter Vineyards is drinking beautifully at 10 years of age.

Medium deep lemon yellow. Citrus is the theme here: lemon custard and citrus zest along with white flowers. Fresh and lively. Green apples and lime on the palate. Concentrated and well defined flavors with an intense finish.
 

Eden Valley Wines Old Butts Eden Valley Shiraz, 1995

The Eden Valley appellation was what attracted me to this wine, which has been one of my most pleasurable auction purchases. Eden Valley is a relatively cool micro-climate in the Barossa Valley. It is the source of many good Rieslings, and it is where most Henschke wines are sourced and produced. The vines for this Shiraz are about 80 years of age and the "old butts" are gnarled tree-like vines similar to those found in Gigondas and Chateauneuf du Pape in the Southern Rhone. According to the label, the combination of the cool climate and the old vines led to slow ripening and the development of complex flavors. Complex, I guess. I love this wine.

The color has lightened considerably, even compared to the previous bottles I had in 2020 and 2021. Ethereal scents and flavors. Savory rather than sweet. Black olives, leather, dried berries, cured meats. Great level of acidity. Subtle flavors that shift and change with every sip. Reminds me of a Domaine Thalabert (Jaboulet) Crozes Hermitage from the 1980s--high praise indeed.
 

Kirkland Signature K Vine Frenchan's Hill Syrah, 2021

This is a wine made by Charles Smith specifically for Costco. Frenchman's Hill is a vineyard that the winemaker considers to be specifically suitable for Washington state Shiraz.

Dark inky color. I opened the wine about two hours before drinking, and I believe it benefited from that aeration, becoming significantly deeper, more acidic and more interesting. Black currants, cassis. Very easy to drink. Tannins are soft for a young wine, but fruit and acidity are strong. Has the herbal, mineral edge that is more common in Northern Rhone Syrah compared to Australian Shiraz. A bargain at $9.99.
 

Evening Land Sonoma Coast Vineyards, 2012

This Evening Land Sonoma Coast Pinot was a Garagiste offering several years ago. It comes from the highly respected Gap's Crown Vineyard on the Sonoma Coast..

Medium dark ruby with garnet tones. Ripe but taut. Good acid. Cherries and cranberries with some citrus peel on the finish. Medium body. Drinking nicely now and will probably keep a year or two.

Chateau du Trignon Rasteau, 2018

This Rasteau from Chateau du Trignon was the wine of the evening for me and for most of those at our table. At $24, it is cheaper than the Gigondas but at least as good, although probably not as ageworthy.

Deep ruby with garnet tones around the rim. Lighter than the Gigondas. It is 65% Grenache and 35% Mourvedre aged in vats and foudres (large traditional barrels). Red berries, olives, earth. Sweet and savory, very much like a good Chateauneuf du Pape. Surprisingly supple tannins plus tongue-tingling acidity. Good overall balance. Finish is long and complex. A treat to drink right now and will probably keep. My score 18.5.

E. Guigal Gigondas, 2019

E. Guigal was one of the first Rhone producers to use new oak, and this wine spent two years in oak casks, 50% of which were new. It is 70% Grenache, 20% Syrah and 10% Mourvedre.

Very deep, dark with purplish tones. Intense aromas are also deep and brooding, promising more to come. Cherry, cranberry, licorice, garrigue. Medium to full body. Tannins that grip, acidity that pleases. Flavors open nicely on the finish, but there is much more to come through the rest of this decade. I gave this wine a score of 18.5, but, at a price of $35, I will not be a buyer.

 

Domaine de Beaurenard Cotes du Rhone, 2021

I have been a fan of Domaine de Beaurenard's Chateauneufs du Pape since the 1990 vintage. This is my first taste of the estate's Cotes du Rhone, and I am impressed. It is similar to the Brusset CDR (below): 70% Grenache, 30% Syrah aged in both stainless steel and neutral barrels.

Compared to the Brusset, a deeper ruby color. Also more aromatic intensity: red berries, plums, flowers. Medium full body, coats the tongue. A bit rough on the finish, but, again, this is a 2021 and will benefit from a few more months in the bottle. Good CDR; my score: 18.0. At $15, I would be a buyer but the retail price ($19 to $24) seems a bit high for a Cotes du Rhone, even one of this high quality.

 

Domaine Brusset Laurent B Cotes du Rhone, 2021

At $14, this was the least expensive wine at the tasting and a good value. It is 60% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre and 10% Carignan aged six months in 80% stainless steel and 20% large oak barrels.

Bright, medium ruby. Fresh and fruity. Strawberry Grenache with a touch of black pepper. Medium body, bright acidity. I marked it down on the after taste but attributed this to youth rather than lack of fruit. It will be a good every day wine for the next two to three years. My score: 17.0.

5 
 

E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone Blanc, 2021

I recognized this wine immediately because of the Viognier (60%) in the blend. Others at the table who had expressed their love of Viognier did not immediately recognize the Viognier because it is blended with Rousanne (15%), Marsanne (10%), Clairette (8%), Bourboulenc (5%) and Grenache Blanc (2%). The wine also lacks the delicacy of Condrieu, a more expensive Viognier wine from the Northern Rhone.

Medium light yellow, good brilliance. Lovely Viognier scents of white flowers, apricots and white peaches. The Marsanne and Rousanne express themselves through a rich texture and medium full body. A bit short and sharp on the finish, but that may change with a few more months in the bottle. At $15, a good value. My score 16.5.
 

American Wine Society National Tasting Project, Installment #2

Donna and I participated last night in the second installment of the American Wine Society's National Tasting Project. My tasting notes can be found above. This year's tasting focused on Southern Rhone wines. And as a Southern Rhone enthusiast for many years, I thought the wines were very well selected, including some of my favorite estates, such as Beaurenard, Chateau du Trignon, E. Guigal, Brusset, Pierre Amadieu and Fortia. My favorite at last night's tasting was the 2018 Chateaau du Trignon Rasteau; but then, as a 2018, it was also the wine with the greatest maturity.

My scores throughout the tasting were embarrassingly high, but I do love these wines. On this site, you should remember that I do not rate wines or recommend them. I have developed my own tastes over many years, and I don't want to impose them on anyone else any more than I want others to impose their tastes on me.

Chateau Feuillet Valle d'Aosta Torrette, 2016

Chateau Feuiollet's Torrette is composed of 90% Petite Rouge and 10% Mayolot--hardly household grape names in the world of wine. These grapes are grown in the mountainous Valle d'Aosta in northwest Italy where the sunny but cool climate allows long, slow ripening.

The "delicately perfumed" smells mentioned on the label, are not present at this time. The wine is probably in a reduced state, thirsty for more oxygen. That will probably change with more time in the bottle or more time for aeration. The flavors, though, are delicate, intense and beautiful. Dried berries, sweet and savory with a hint of black pepper. Evolves slowly throughout the meal, leaving a very pleasant after taste.
 

Domane Yves Cheron Gigondas, 2020

This Yves Cheron wine, offered as a wine by the glass at Every Day People Cafe in Douglas, MI, is drinking beautifully for a young Gigondas. It was a pefect match for the Bolognesse pasta dish.

Deep, dark crimson. Has the sweet smells and flavors of fresh red berries countered by the dry chalky mouth feel of Gigondas. Distinctly Gigondas with mint, bay leaf and limestone-tinged minerals. Gigondas is only a few miles from Vacqueyras and the grapes used are basically the same; yet the wines are very diffeerent. This Gigondas is 75% Grenache and 25% Syrah. Delicious now but will undoubtedly be drinking even more beautifully with another 8 to 10 years in the bottle.
 

Kermit Lynch Selection Languedoc Cabrieres Rouge, 2020

The French generally consider Southern France to be too warm to produce good Syrah-dominant wines. Languedoc Cabrieres, however, has a high altitude, cool micro-climate better suited to Syrah. As a result, this wine has 55% Syrah and only 35% Grenache along with smaller quantities of Carignan and Cinsault.

Dark ruby color and dark berry smells and flavors of Syrah. Compared to the last bottle I had several months ago, this wine is now beginning to open up nicely, showing ripe fruit, flowers, spicy minerals and earth. The personality is clearly Southern Rhone/Languedoc. Good to drink now or later.
 

Jean Bourdy Cotes du Jura Blanc, 2012

This is not your ordinary Chardonnay. As the back label states,"according to the tradition in our family, this wine ages slowly during four years in old barrels before bottling." As a result, it says, "This Chardonnay is better if you uncork it 3 or 4 hours before bottling."

It sounds like an oxymoron, and it is. If the wine has been exposed to air for so long in old barrels, why do you need to expose it to even more oxygen before drinking? In fact, aeration is precisely what long-in-barrel wines need. The same is true for Barolo. And the result can be spectacular.

Deep yellow color. When I first popped the cork, the wine did show some stinky, oxidized smells. Some might call them "pissy." But these smells were also exotic, mineral-tinged and beautiful. I did wait four hours after popping the cork, and by then the stinky smells had all disappeared; the exotic, mineral-tinged traits remained. Buttered biscuits, cinnamon, eucalyptus honey. Beautiful. Medium bodied with good acidity and a somewhat oily texture. Long finish.

This is not a budget wine but well worth $30 or even more if you can afford it.
 

19 Crimes Southeast Australia Shiraz, 2021

Probably because of the rather garish packaging, I have never been attracted to 19 Crimes wines when I see them on the shelves for $10 to $15 a bottle. But when my local Trader Joe's store offered the Shiraz, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc for $4.99, I had to give them a try. The Pinot was surprisingly decent and drinkable, but I find this Shiraz to be ordinary and fairly priced at $4.99.

Bright red. Comes across as a bold Aussie Shiraz. Black fruits, vanilla, oak. The fruit appears to come from highly cropped vineyards, though. Simple, undistinguished and slightly sweet.

 

Willamette Valley Vineyards White Pinot Noir, 2021

This is an unusual wine created to show the best traits of red and white grapes. Pinot Noir grapes from vineyards at Willamette Valley Vineyards are lightly pressed to get only  the free run juice without the color and tannins from the peels. The wine is then matured in stainless steel and neutral barrels to preserve the fresh fruit. 

Light and bright, almost as clear as water.. White peaches, flowers and lemon creme.Good viscosity on the palate. More body than the color suggests. I like the Chardonnays from this estate, and this wine has many of the same qualities. Medium long, multi-flavored finish. I went back for four more bottles and will enjoy them over the next two or three years.

WVV sells its white Pinot Noir (under the Tualatin label) for $50. My local Costco has the WVV White Pinot for $23.99, an incredible bargain.

 

Fontanafredda Barbera Briccotondo, 2020

I have had this Fontanafredda Barbera three times now at Martini's Restaurant in Kalamazoo and find it a perfect match for the penne pasta with red sauce dish.

Bright, medium light riby. Cherry tinged Barbera fruit. Also black fruits and plums on the palate. High acidity, low tannin approach typical of Barbera. That is what I like and it goes nicely with Martini's brisk red sauce. I will certainly be back for more of the food and the wine.
 

Piper Heidsieck Cuvee Brut, NV

On sale for $20 a bottle at Costco, this is one of the best buys in Champagne I have seen in a long time. A blend of 50% Pinot Noir, 30% Pinot Meunier and 20%  Chardonnay, it is fresh, light and brimming with red fruit smells and flavors. A perfect aperitif or simply for sipping on the deck.

Light gold color with fine mousse and tiny, persistent bubbles. Fresh scents of apples, ginger-tinged Pinot Noir, citrus, salted almonds and warm toast. Elegant mouth feel and racy acidity. Delicious.

Chateau Suiduiraut Sauternes (375 ml), 1983

Even from a 375 ml bottle, this 1983 Suiduiraut Sauternes still offers magnificent smells and flavors.

Deep amber color but not as dark as the 1983 Doisy Daene I opened and reported on last week. Richer and sweeter than the Doisy Daene.One person at the table immediately mentioned Seville orange marmalade--a perfect descriptor for both the flavors and texture. Also dried and fresh apricots, honey and butterscotch. Viscous and mouthfeeling, Pleasure clinging to the inside of your mouth. Sweet but with the tangy bitterness of marmalade. Beautiful.
 

Chapel Hill House Block McLaren Vale Shiraz, 2014

Chapel Hill's House Block Shiraz comes from one of the best vineyards in McLaren Vale, and the winemaker is Michael Drago. Like John Duval, Drago is a former winemaker at Penfolds who helped produce the highly touted Grange Hermitage.

Very deep and dark. Big and youthful. Blackberries, mulberries, oak. Full bodied with substantial tannins on the mid-palate and finish. Good potential, but, for my taste, this wine needs at least another five years in the cellar.
 

Chateau Leoville Barton St. Julien 2nd Grand Cru Classe, 1993

1993 was not a particularly good vintage in Bordeaux, but Robert Parker called Leoville Barton "one of the biggest, richest, most impressive wines of the vintage." Although it may have faded slightly from its best form, the wine is drinking beautifully tonight.

Medium red, considerably lighter than the 2004 Penfolds Cab beside it at the table. It is also lighter in body than the Penfolds, and the tannins have subsided, releasing intriguing, beautifully complex flavors. Red currants, raspberries, cherries, cassis. Oak is perfectly integrated into the fruit. Polished texture on mid-palate, leading into a long, satisfying finish. I think it is showing better tonight than it did a year ago when it may have been outclassed by a 1982 Haut Bages Liberal that accompanied it at the table. 

Penfolds Bin 407 Barossa Valley Cabernet, 2004

Australian wine critic James Halliday wrote that "this is 100% about Cabernet Sauvignon and nothing about terroir." He awarded it 94 points as a classic Australian Cabernet.

Deep and dark. Nearly opaque. Classic scents of black currant, cassis and smoke-tinged oak. Big on the mid-palate with loads of tannin. Has the fruit faded or is it hiding behind the tannin? Penfolds lists prime drinking time as 2021; I would be inclined to give it a few more years to let the tannins soften.

Warre's Vintage Port, 1977

This bottle has been resting in my cellar for 40-some years and is now showing beautifully. Fill level is good but there is a great deal of crust on top of the cork. Once this is cleaned off, the cork falls into the bottle with a slight touch. The wine was decanted and then poured.

Medium light color. Beautiful red fruit smells and flavors. Strawberries, raspberries, nuts, caramel, sweet spices. Very pleasantly sweet; good counter for salty aged Stilton cheese. Sits lightly on the tongue and releases its pleasure. Well worth the wait.

Schweiger Vineyards Spring Mountain Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002

 I paid $16 for this Schweiger Cabernet in July of 2008; the winery is now selling library bottles of the same 2002 vintage for $275 ($3300 for a 12-bottle case). Tasting the wine tonight, I don't consider that an outrageous price (although it is far above my wine budget). The winery has clearly discovered that this is a special wine; and it is.

Deep and dark. Powerful smells and flavors, rich and complex. Raspberries, cherries, cassis, dark chocolate...and more. Very lively and fresh. Flavors explode on mid-palate and finish. More acidity than I expect from a California Cabernet, and, in my view, that is what makes this wine so wonderful to drink.

Whitehall Lane Napa Cabernet, 2013

This very good Napa Cabernet has 8% Merlot, 3% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec in the blend. From the highly rated 2013 vintage, it is drinking beautifully right now.

Inky black. Lush fruit--currants, cassis, cherries, mocha, toasted oak. Velvety mouthfeel, sweet fruit. Medium long finish. A wine that should please almost any audience. Soft acidity makes it easy to drink, but not a good candidate for extended aging.

Chateau Caillou Sauternes, 2005

In texture, flavor and enjoyment, this bottle was a perfect match for a fresh apricot cake we had for dessert.

Medium deep gold. Looks youthful. Ripe apricots, honey, vanilla. Rich flavors. Viscous mouth feel that blends beautifully with the texture of the cake. Would be good with any fruit-oriented dessert.
 

Chateau Haut Bages Liberal Pauillac, 1986

Upon initial tasting of the 1986 Bordeaux from cask, English wine critic Clive Coates listed Haut Bages Liberal as one of the wines he would be opening his wallet to buy. I did the same and ordered a case on futures for about $160. It was a good choice. The wine is drinking beautifully tonight. 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 20% Merlot, 5% Petit Verdot.

Beautiful, bright crimson. Smells and flavors that open beautifully over the course of the dinner. Black raspberries, red plums, cassis, spice. Ripe fruit with savory tones that get more delicious with every sip. Very long finish. I think the wine has reached its peak and may stay there for at least another four or five years.
 

Chateau Sociando Mallet Haut Medoc, 1985

Sociando Mallet is a highly respected Haut Medoc that always drinks and ages considerably above its class. This 38-year-old bottle is a good example.

Bright crimson with minimal bricking around the rim. Also darker in smells and flavors than the 1989 Citran beside it at the table. More black and than red fruits. Oak is well integrated and the flavors are deep. Good grip on the mid-palate, but finish is not quite as ripe and fruity as the 1986 Haut Bages Liberal beside it at the table. 55% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Cabernet Franc.
 

Chateau Citran Haut Medoc, 1989

The current vintage of Chateau Citran is priced at about $35, and this 1989 shows that it ages well for a medium priced Bordeaux.

Medium deep with some bricking. Pleasing, fruity bouquet. Spicy red and black currants and lifted tones of green bell pepper. 58% Cabernet Sauvignon, 42% Merlot. Tonight, I would say the Merlot is dominant. Compared to the 1985 Sociando Mallet Haut Medoc beside it at the table it is clearly lighter in body and flavor.