Thursday, July 25, 2024

Domaine Arnaud Lambert Clos de Midi Breze Saumur Blanc, 2018

I was impressed with this Saumur Chenin Blanc when I had it a wine tasting five years ago. I bought three bottles but felt sure that they would be even better with a few years in the cellar.. Tonight I was rewarded for my patience. It is a different wine from the one I had at the tasting but oh so much better.

Deep gold color. Lovely scents and flavors of fresh pears, flowers, spices and lemon peel. After an hour or so the pears take a back seat to ripe apricots, honey and damp hay. Full body (13.5% alcohol) and round texture but with Loire Valley acidity to keep it fresh and lively. Flavors evolve and expand. Very dry. Not a wine for drinking on the deck unless you are in a contemplative mood. We enjoyed it with Margharita pizza but it is a serious wine that will dress up any meal. 

Saturday, July 20, 2024

Domaine Notre Dame des Pallieres Sablet L'Olivet, 2019

This Cotes du Rhone Villages is 60% Grenache, but the Syrah (40%) is showing most priominently right now.

Bright, medium deep ruby. Swirling reveals some lovely rose petal scents. Black as well as red berries, currants, cassis and black pepper. Suave and sophisticated. Drinking beautifully right now. 
 

Sunday, July 14, 2024

Elyse Le Corbeau Hudson Vineyard Los Carneros Grenache Blend, 2005

I usually don't find much to like in California imitations of Chateauneuf du Pape. This wine is a major exception. It is 90% Grenache and  10% Syrah from the esteemed Hudson Vineyard. The label describes it as "echoing the great wines of Chateauneuf du Pape," and I tend to agree.

Light, brickish red whern poured as a taste. Grenache tends to develop oxidative notes, and this can be positive as well as negative if you like Southern Rhone reds. Darker crimson when poured as a glass. Also some oxidative notes on the nose, but these add to the depth and complexity of the wine. Dark cherries, black licorice and peppercorn. Savory rather than sweet. Sea salt and compact fruit cake flavors. At 19 years, this wine is well aged, but it holds up well over three days without any hint of decline.
 

Saturday, July 13, 2024

Carpe Diem Anderson Valley Chardonnay, 2019

Made from grapes grown in the cool Anderson Valley of northern California, this wine has some of the qualities that I like in Oregon Chardonnays. I doubt, though, that the grapes are Dijon clone for it lacks some of the subtleties of aroma and flavor that characterize Dijon clone Chardonnays that I have had.

Medium deep yellow. Freshly squeezed lemon acidity. Lemons, butter, vanilla, honeydew melon. Medium bodied with some rich fruit on the mid-palate. Drinking beautifully now with plentiful acidity and tannin, but I am not sure I would like it at age 10.
 

Thursday, July 11, 2024

Thomas Goss McLaren Vale Shiraz, 2016

This McLaren Vale Shiraz is coming along nicely at eight years of age, but it still may have a year or two of positive development ahead of it.

Deep and dark but not opaque. Red fruits emerging to go along with Shiraz black fruits and spice. Shows more acidity than it did a few years ago, but the tannins and alcohol (14.5%) still define this wine. Definitely an old style Australian Shiraz and a good buy at $15 or under.

Tuesday, July 9, 2024

Chateau Grand Traverse Gamay Noir Reserve, 2012

Many Michigan wineries are obsessed with creating "big" red wines, similar to those in California, even though the climate in the state is more conducive to producing smaller red wines, similar to those of Germany and Austria. My favorite Michigan red is this Gamay Noir from Chateau Grand Traverse. To me, it is more like a Pinot Noir than the estate's own Pinot Noir.

Medium deep color, has not lightened as much you might expect 12 years after the vintage. Enticing scents of flowers and dark cherries. Same on the palate. If anything, this wine serems to be putting on, rather than losing, weight with advancing age. Big fruit on the finish, but it is clearly time to drink up for this 2012
 

Monday, July 8, 2024

Tour Saint Bonnet Cru Bourgeois Medoc, 1995

This is not a big-name Bordeaux, and it is 29 years past its vintage date. The price tag from the 1990s reads $14.95, but this wine still sells today for about that price. Yet tonight it is drinking as a beautiful example of mature Bordeaux.

Medium deep red, minimal bricking. Lovely bouquet of fresh berries and flowers. Cabernet (45%) /Merlot (45%) fruit in its prime. (Also has some Malbec and Petit Verdot in the blend.) Cherries, currants, cassis and a hint of black tea on the mid-palate. Tannins have faded away and there are no hard edges. Suave dinner wine. I think it has improved since my last bottle a year ago. It certainly has not declined.
 

Saturday, July 6, 2024

Domaine Sainte-Anne Saint Gervais, 2005

This 2005 Saint Gervais is holding well for a Cotes du Rhone Villages. Now known as Les Rouvieres, this cuvee is 60 to 70% Mourvedre planted in the early to mid-1960s plus Syrah and Grenache. Current vintages sell for $25 to $30 a bottle. It has always been one of my favorite Southern Rhones.

Medium cherry red shading to garnet. Blue and black berry fruit with Mourvedre violets and touch of black pepper..Supple fruit on the mid-palate and finish well supported by acid. Drinks like a much younger wine.
 

Wednesday, July 3, 2024

Mount Langi Ghiran Heathcote Shiraz, 2019

This wine is not Langi Shiraz, the flagship wine of Mount Langi Ghiran that sells for $200 a bottle at the estate. Langi Shiraz comes from vineyards nurtured by the late, great Australian winemaker Trevor Mast, who owned this estate from the mid 1980s until 2002, establishing its sterling reputation. This Heathcote Shiraz, that I bought for $13 a bottle at LastBottleWines.com, is from purchased grapes, and, as a result, does not command the price of other wines from Mount Langi Ghiran. From personal experience, though, I know that Trevor Mast had great respect for Heathcote Shiraz. This 2019 bottling has had mixed reviews online, but my initial impression is positive.

Medium deep color. Does not appear to have had extensive oak treatment. Lovely lifted aromas, then flavors that are dry on entry and get increasingly ripe as they travel down the tongue. Blackberries, dark cherries, cassis. Lacks the strong black peppercorn smells that I remember from Langi Shiraz from the late 1980s and early 1990s, but there are some dark notes more like licorice or almond paste. Delightful to drink right now, but I suspect it will get more complex with a few years in the bottle. 
 

Sunday, June 30, 2024

Eric Kent Sangiacomo Green Acres Hill Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, 2016

High quality Chardonnay fruit from the Sonoma Coast is well framed and presented in this wine from the Eric Kent Winery.

Medium deep yellow. A toasty note upfront introduces complex smells and flavors. Lime, Red Delicious apples, abundant spice. Plenty of oak but it is well chosen to highlight the high quality Sangiacomo fruit. Rich in texture but only 13.7% alcohol. Even though it is now eight years old, it is holding well, although the flavors drop off considerably on the second night.

I bought this from WineBid for $15, and several bottles are still available in this week's auction.
 

Friday, June 28, 2024

Le Grand Noir Chardonnay, 2022

This is a Languedoc Chardonnay (85%) with Viognier (15%) added for some zip. The label identifies it as the piano (Chardonnay) and the clarinet (Viognier). It is a good every day white that received 92 points from the Wine Enthusiast and is available right now for $9.99 at my local Costco store.

Medium light straw. Lifted Viognier aromas of flowers, white peaches and vanilla. Apricots and melon on the palate. Not particularly high in acid but has the fresh mouth feel (and the clarinet tones) of Viognier.
 

Thursday, June 27, 2024

Willamette Valley Vineyards White Pinot Noir, 2021

When I bought this wine last July ($23.99 at Costco), it was a very good white wine. A year later, it has taken on the depth and complexity of a fine Willamette Valley Pinot Noir--everything Pinot but without the color. The grapes went though a very light pressing and were then matured in neutral French oak.

Bright white color. Smells like Pinot--flowers, minerals, lots of depth and complexity. Has some white wine flavors: white peaches, pears, lemon zest, white pepper but still comes across to me as a delicate, graceful Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. Even matched with the aggresssive flavors of lamb chops, it stands up well. Wood and fruit tannins are firm but not at all hard. Subtlety and charm in the long finish. I bought four bottles; wish I had bought more.
 

Wednesday, June 26, 2024

Domaine du Grand Tinel Chateauneuf du Pape, 2000

I have had many excellent bottles of Grand Tinel from the 1988, 1990 and 1995 vintages. It is often one of the least expensive Chateauneufs but drinks at a higher level. Since 2006, Grand Tinel has been made in a more modern, international style, including some aging in new oak, that does not appeal to me. This 2000, though, is made in the traditional style and is very good.

Very dark for a Grenache-dominant wine. And there is more black than red fruit in the smells and flavors. Rich, concentrated flavors. A bit of sea salt and a bit of earth along with cherries and pepper. Alcohol at 14.5% shows a little but does not distract from the Chateauneuf profile.
 

Willamette Valley Vineyards Dijon Clone Chardonnay, 2017

There is a zing to Oregon Chardonnays that I really like. And this Dijon Clone Chardonnay from Willamette Valley Vineyards is a prime example. While most California Chardonnays are in decline by age five, this Dijon Clone is doing quite well in its seventh year.

Bright, medium yellow color. Rich, zesty smells and flavors of lemon curd, white peach and a hint of butterscotch. Mouth watering acidity and a long, fruit filled finish.
 

Wednesday, June 19, 2024

Careglio Roero DOCG, 2010

There is nothing on the label to indicate that this wine is Nebbiolo, but it is 100% Nebbiolo from vineyards in Roero just across the Tanaro River from Alba and the nearby vineyards that produce Barolo and Barbaresco. When I tasted the 2010 Careglio Roero in 2021, I found it to be quite like a Barolo albeit with gentler, less aggressive tannins. Now, three years later, I  find alll of those delightful Nebbiolo qualities and a few more. It drinks well now and I don't see it going into decline any time soon.

Ruby red shading to garnet with orange tones characteristic of the grape. Enticing scents of rose petals, violets, red berries. Flavors of dark cherries, cloves, and black licorice. If this were a 20-year-old Barolo, I would be very happy with it. It is approachable, charming and delicious.
 

Tuesday, June 18, 2024

Bybee Estate and Habitat Sera Russian River Pinot Noir, 2006

When I encountered this wine for a low reserve price at WineBid a few months ago, I was a bit leery (as were other potential bidders) because of its age. But over the past decade, I have had several superb Bybee Estate Pinots from the 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages. The 2007 Sera was probably the best of the lot. Admitting that it might be past its prime, I figured it would still be superior to most Pinots in this price range ($15). And it certainly was.

Medium dark ruby. Several shades darker than the Mary Elke beside it. The bouquet and flavors were breathtaking--rich red and black fruits along with baking spices and some savory tones. The satiny smooth texture, though, is what sets it apart. Coats the tongue with Pinot pleasure.
 

Mary Elke Boonville Barter Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2013

I have always liked Mary Elke's Pinot Noirs, and this wine looked like a winner coming out of the gate. Even though it is the least expensive Pinot from this estate, I expected more than I got from it tonight. That is probably in part because it was tasted alongside a very good 2006 Pinot from Bybee Estate and Habitat.

Bright medium light red. Nice floral tinged bouquet along with some fresh cherry berry flavors. Fruit is good but not very complex and there is a bit of a sharp edge on the finish. 

On the second night, I find a lot more to like. Fruit is deeper and the sharp edge is gone. Mary Elke told me this Boonville Barter should go 10 to 15 years. So maybe it just needs a little time.
 

Sunday, June 16, 2024

Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du Pape, 1989

I have always liked the 1989 Pegau Cuvee Reservee even better than the highly rated 1990 which was a major factor in drawing attention to the fine Chateauneufs produced at this estate. At 35 years of age, it is as delicious and powerful as it was when I tasted it at the winery in the early 1990s.

Deep and dark for a 35 year old Chateauneuf. Ripe and broad shouldered from the first sip. 80% Grenache but more black than red fruit, dried as well as fresh. Plums, berries, leather, black pepper, licorice and Provencal herbs. As always, fills the mouth with pleasure. The ultimate example of the masculine style of Chateauneuf, rich and concentrated. Perfect with a Father's Day dinner of Provencal style roast lamb.
 

Friday, June 14, 2024

Tenuta Arnulfo Costa di Bussia Barbera d'Alba, 2016

I have had several vintages of this Barbera. This one is probably the biggest and most tannic, reflecting undoubtedly the excellent 2016 vintage in the Piedmont.

Deep ruby color. More black than red fruit tones: blackberry, blue plums seasoned with clove and white pepper. Tannic for a Barbera but still has the trademark Barbera acidity. A wine that will stand up to red meats and rich sauces. And I will be in no hurry to drink the remaining bottles in my cellar.
 

Wednesday, June 12, 2024

Domaine des Baumard la Caleche IGP Val de Loire, 2019

Alas, this is our last bottle of la Caleche, a delightful every day wine produced by a domaine that makes some of the very best whites of the Loire Valley. It is a blend of 50 % Chenin Blanc and 50% Chardonnay.

Medium deep yellow. Apricots, pears and canteloupe with a citric backbone. Rich mouth feel and a touch of honey. Combines the best of Chenin Blanc and Chardonnay. Easy to drink and gets more complex and interesting as it warms in the glass.
 

Thursday, June 6, 2024

Vincent Saincrit Coteaux du Layon, 1999

I opened this bottle during the Christmas season of 2023, then re-corked what was left (about 1/3 of a bottle in the cellar). Noticing it six months later, I assumed that what was left would be totally defunct, but I took a taste just to be sure before pouring it down the sink. Whooooo. The leftover wine was very, very good. Oxidized yes, but in a positive way. I love it.

Deep bronze color. Apricots, honey and ripe melon. Very rich on the palate with a taste that lingers for several minutes. In fact, I can still remember the taste 30 minutes later. A testament to the beauty of well aged (and oxidized) Chenin Blanc.

Cascina delle Rose Dolcetta d'Alba A Elizabeth, 2018

Cascina della Rose produces some very good Barbaresco wines, and this Dolcetto is grown in an 8.5 hectare vineyard planted in 1958 on a hillside that also contains Nebbiolo vines used to produce Barbaresco. Cascina delle Rose admirably chooses to stick with its traditional Dolceto production. A Elizabeth is named after a woman who comes regularly to pick grapes and loves Dolcetto.

Beautiful medium light maroon. Red berries, Bing cherries. Very fresh and lively. Ripe fruit flavors. No oak, matured in stainless steel to preserve the lovely Dolcetto fruit. Reminds me that I don't drink enough Dolceto, an excellent choice for every day fare.

Saturday, June 1, 2024

Brezza Barbera d'Alba Superiore, 2012

Brezza's vineyards are very close to the town of Barolo where most of the space is understandably reserved for more expensive Barolos. This Barbera d'Alba, though, carved out a good niche for itself.

Beautiful bright Barbera ruby. Black cherries, strawberries, leather and dark spices. Medium light body with an elegant mouthfeel. Subtle nuances. Wraps around the tongue, teasing and pleasing the taste buds. Excellent Barbera.

 

Friday, May 31, 2024

2017 Phelps Creek Columbia Gorge Chardonnay, 2017

This Columbia Gorge Chardonnay contains fruit from vineyards in both Oregon and Washington. Tonight, though, it comes across as a California Chardonnay.

Medium deep gold. Has lost some of the fresh lemon creme aromas and flavors I found two years ago. Still some apple, pear and citrus fruit, but the oak has taken prime position. Medium body, medium acidity, medium long finish.

2nd night: I must have been in a bad mood last night. Tonight I get the intense aromas and lemon creme flavors I found two years ago. Oregon-like acidity and a persistent finish.
 

Wednesday, May 29, 2024

Carpe Diem Anderson Valley Chardonnay, 2019

Carpe diem! Seize the day indeed! As fresh as the first day of Spring but with the richness and body that most of us expect from top drawer Chardonnay.

Beautiful medium yellow color. Honeydew melon, Red Haven peaches and lemon cream. Full flavors on the mid-palate and finish pushed along by brisk Anderson Valley acidity. Works well with tilapia but would also drink well on its own.


Sunday, May 26, 2024

Famille Perrin Ventoux Rouge, 2022

 The Famille Perrin Ventoux Rouge has become a standard at our table over the past few veintages. The 2022 seems a bit lighter in color and in body than previous vintages, but it still carries the fresh upfront Southern Rhone fruit that characterizes the appellation.

Medium light crimson. The cepage is Carignan, Cinsault, Grenache and Syrah, but, as usual with this label, fresh Grenache berry shines through most prominently. Delicate may be a better descriptive term than "light" because it has substantial complexity and flavor interest for a wine at this price level ($5.79 at Plum Market in Ann Arbor). Peppery spice, as usual, on the pleasant and persistent finish.

On the second and third night, this wine fills out substantially. Has full blown Ventoux personality.

Friday, May 24, 2024

Domaine de la Croix Senaillet Pouilly Vinzelles, 2017

If you like Pouilly Fuisse, as Donna and I do, you probably like Pouilly Vinzelles too. It is located very near to Pouilly Fuisse, and the wines are similar. If anything, Pouilly Vinzelles is a bit more refined and delicate. This is a very good Pouilly Vinzelles, and it has that delicacy as well as impressive depth and complexity.

Medium deep golden yellow. Lilting smells and flavors. Peaches, apricots, citrus evolving to almonds and hazelnuts as it travels down the tongue. Slightly tart rather than sweet on entry, rich texture and fruit flavors in the middle and a long complex finish. Just keeps getting better and better as it warms and airs. Drinking beautifully right now.

 

Wednesday, May 22, 2024

Penfolds Koonunga Hill Shiraz Cabernet, 2020

When I buy a wine, the most important consideration for me is where the grapes are grown. Good wines are made in the vineyard. Penfolds doesn't disagree, but the winemaker treats this knowledge as a trade secret. This wine does not come from grapes grown in the Koonunga Hill vineyard,which produced the initial magnificent Koonunga Hill Claret in 1976. Rather it is made in the style of the early Koonunga Hill wines and named after them. That is a labeling practice that would be considered scandalous in France or Italy, but it is common in Australia and consumers in that country accept it as long as the wine in the bottle measures up to their expectations. And Penfolds wines conistently measure up.

Deep and dark. Black fruit, ripe and concentrated plus spicy oak. Dark chocolate on the mid palate. A tad tannic for my taste at the moment, but the wine is still young. This wine has a track record for aging well over 10 to 15 years or longer, and I am sure this 2020 will continue the trend.

 

Monday, May 20, 2024

Badet Clement Pontificus Languedoc GSM, 2022

 

This Grenache (40%), Syrah (40%), Mourvedre (20%) blend from the Languedoc is still my No. 1 bargain pick from Trader Joe's. It reminds me of the excellent Southern Rhone wines that were available for bargain prices in the late 1980s and early 1990s.

Bright crimson. Grenache red berry, Syrah black berry, Mourvedre flowers and spice. Ripe and fruit forward but with a bracing structure. Minerals, spsice and black pepper on the delicious finish.

Sunday, May 19, 2024

Epicuro Puglia Aglianico, 2022

 

My second bottle of this Aglianico confirms my initial impression: it is an excellent value at $5.99 at Trader Joe's.

Medium deep maroon color. Blackberries, dark cherries and black pepper. There is plenty of rotundone in this wine. Reminds of a Syrah from the Rhone Valley. Sweet fruit nicely balanced by firm acidity. A good choice for frequent drinking. It has surfaced again at my local TJ store, and I will be back for more.

Thursday, May 16, 2024

Chateau Graville Lacoste Graves Blanc, 2016

White Graves once had a prominent place on my regular buying list, but they are very difficult to find in my local buying area. Graville Lacoste is a very good one. It is 75% Semillon, 20% Sauvignon Blance and 5% Muscadelle from grapes grown in the Haut Barsac area of Bordeaux.

Young Graville Lacoste is usually as light and clear as water. At 8 years of age, this bottle has turned to a medium deep gold. I find it prime drinking right now without a hint of oxidation.. Bright lemon, lime, apple, pear with a hint of white fig. Creamy, yet with a crisp mineral edge. Subtle smells and flavors develop as it warms in the glass. Oh, how I wish I had a few more of these!

Sells for about $20 if you can find it. 

Sunday, May 12, 2024

Penfolds Bin 28 Kalimna Shiraz, 2005

This is a throwback to many of the Barossa Shiraz wines I enjoyed often in the 1970s and 1980s. It is styled like the Shiraz wines produced from the warm but well respected Kalimna vineyard in Barossa although, like most Penfolds wines, the fruit is selected from a number of vineyards and areas, only some of which are in Barossa. It is a big, warm climate Shiraz that was matured for 13 months in old American oak hogsheads.

Deep, dark ruby red. Looks young, smells young and tastes young. Black fruits and spice. Cinnamon, rosemary, vanilla. Full bodied with a robust mouth feel. Still very tannic. Penfolds suggests drinking between 2008 and 2025, but I can see this wine drinking well for at least another decade.

 

Saturday, May 11, 2024

Impact Compounds in Wine

My wine notes, like others, frequently include aroma and flavor descriptors (black cherry, rose petals) that may seem fanciful and unnecessary. As one of my friends put it, "It just smells and tastes like wine." A recent post from Wine Folly explains how these descriptors give you a road map to the grapes and processes used to produce the wine. They are, in effect, a chemical profile of the wine which doesn't necessarily define quality as much as your personal tasting preferences.

Of more than 100 aroma compounds in wine, according to the article, there are six that play an impactful role. PYRAZINES (methoxypyrazine) are found mostly in Bordeaux varietals--Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Malbec, Carmenere and Sauvignon Blanc. It's a smell that is almost unmistakeable in Sauvignon Blanc: bell pepper, freshly cut grass, asparagus, celery and green peas. When it appears in red wines, it is not always considered agreeable. Robert Parker consistently marked down Cabernet wines with obvious green tones, and he influenced many tasters, including me. Fortunately for me, this green tone usually disappears, replaced by a cherry note, after many years of aging. I have many well aged Bordeaux and Napa Cabernet wines that I love, but I find most young Cabs (and particularly Merlots) with green tones virtually undrinkable.

Pyrazine I cn do without. ROTUNDONE is my holy grail. It creates the black pepper, spice (marjoram, rosemary, thyme), earth and old leather that is common in wines made from Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre, Aglianico.and Zinfandel grapes. That is why my tastes run toward the Rhone, and particularly the Southern Rhone plus certain areas of Italy. Unfortunately, studies have found that 20 to 25% of the population cannot smell rotundone. The majority of those who can report it as a positive smell. 

The other impact compounds listed by Wine Folly are:

 SOTOLON (maple syrup, grilled nuts, figs, honey) that is created by oxidation in wines such as Sherry, Vin Jaune, old Sauternes, old Chardonnay and very old red wines;

TDN or petrol that is most prominent in Riesling but also in some Chardonnays and other white wines;

DIACETYL, which is responsible for the buttery, creamy flavors and textures in wines, red and white, that have undergone malolactic fermentation; and

MONOTERPENES (roses, flowers, sweet spices, mandarin orange), which are dominant in Muscat Blanc, Gewurztraminer, Viognier but also some red wines such as Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir.

The interaction of these compounds and others creates the complexity and interest of any wine. If the wine simply tastes like wine, you may be missing or ignoring these compounds. Or the wine may just be a simple wine.

Friday, May 10, 2024

Epicuro Sicilia DOP Nero d'Avola 2022

The Epicuro Italian wines, selling for $5.99, are outstanding values at Trader Joe's. I was very pleased with the Aglianico a few weeks ago and went back to buy more. This wine, though good, does not do it for me.

Deep and dark. Rich in blackberry-oriented fruit. Full bodied with soft tannins that allow a smooth feeling on the palate. Only 12.5% alcohol so I assume it is somewhat high in residual sugar and lacks the acidity needed to balance it. A good every day wine if it matches your taste. For the same price, I prefer the Aglianico.
 

Wednesday, May 8, 2024

Roger Lassarat Pouilly Fuisse Tres Vieilles Vignes Cuvee Unique, 2005

 

Count me among tbose who love the special charm of well aged Pouilly Fuisse. At five years of age, this Roger Lassarat wine would have been a very good fruit-forward Chardonnay; at 24 years, it has the mellow warmth and complexity that comes only with age.

Some would be turned off by the color--the deep old gold of maturity. And there are some oxidative notes in the smells and flavors, but that is part of the package. White peaches and Red Delicious apples. Also the broad flavors and salinity of grilled nuts. Acidity that carries the flavors from front to back. Some of the most attractive flavors seem to cling to the roof of my mouth, lingering nicely

Sunday, May 5, 2024

Quinto do Cabriz Dao, 2014

I bought this wine for $6.99 seven years ago at Costco. Most wines at that price level are for early drinking, but when I tried this Dao wine, I knew it would age well so I bought a case. Now in its 10th year, the wine is showing the changes that come with aging, but I don't think it is through with its metamorphosis.

Bright color but garnet more than ruby. Smells are not as intense as early bottles but deeper and more concentrated. Like pasta red sauce that has been simmering for hours. Dark cherries and spice. Somehow, the tannins seem more noticeable now than they were a few years ago but they aare more integrated with the fruit, which is beginning to show darker tones. Complexity is developing, but I think there is more to come
 

Saturday, May 4, 2024

Skouras Saint George Agiorgitiko Nemea, 2021

I have had virtually no experience with Greek wines. As a result, I was baffled when looking over the list of wines by the glass at the new Dimi's Greek House restaurant in Kalamazoo. All of the wines on the list, red and whie, were Greek so I asked for advice from the waiter who recommended this Saint George Agiorgitiko. It was a good choice and matched well with the delicious lamb shank entree.

Medium light red. Reminds me of a good Southern Rhone. Red fruit smells and flavors--strawberry, red cherry with a spicy edge. Medium to light body, high acid, medium to light tannin. I get some complexity in the red fruit, black pepper finish. 

Wednesday, May 1, 2024

Pontificis Pays d'Oc Grenache/Syrah/Mourvedre, 2020

Pontificis has been one of my favorite Trader Joe bargains ($6.99) since the 2015 vintage. Although grapes come from the Pays d'Oc, it has always reminded me of a very good, traditionally made Cotes du Rhone or Cotes du Rhone Villages. This bottle from the 2020 vintage, though, seems a bit less intense and flavorful than previous vintages. That might be because of 1) the vintage, 2) the source of grapes or 3) my mood at the time I tasted it.

Bright red color. Red and black fruits with a spicy undertone. Less garrigue (Provencal herbs) and less black pepper than I remember from previous vintages. Also a bit lower in acidity and a bit higher in fruit sweetness. Still a very good wine and an excellent value.

Sunday, April 28, 2024

Wind Gap Woodruff Vineyard Chardonnay, 2013

This is the last of a stash of Wind Gap Chardonnays from the 2012 and 2013 vintages that I acquired several months ago at a good price from WineBid. A high acid Chardonnay, it is still holding well.

Deep gold color. Looks more mature than it smells or tastes. Intense citrus smells. Buttery on the palaate. More citrus on the palate along with apple, minerals and nuts. Rich, creamy mouthfeel. Lemon curd and butter. Tastes more like an Oregon rather than a California Chardonnay
 

Saturday, April 27, 2024

Maison L'Envoye Straight Shooter Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, 2022

At $20 a bottle, Straight Shooter is moderately priced for Willamette Valldey Pinot Noir and, as a result, is often found as a wine by the glass in restaurants. It does, however, have the hallmark features of good Oregon Pinot Noir. The grapes come from sub-appellations in the Eola-Amity Hills and McMinnville.

Medium light Pinot color.Scents of roses and red fruit; flavors of Bing cherry and red raspberry with touches of vanilla, cinnamon and orange peel. Bright fruit with good acidity and delicate tannins. Matched up well with a delicious pappardelle bolognese dish at Compass+Cleaver in Gull Lake, MI.
 

Wednesday, April 24, 2024

Epicuro Puglia Aglianico, 2022

Aglianico is sometimes called the Barolo of the South, but this bottle comes from grapes in Puglia, a less distinguished appellation than Aglianico del Vulture, located on volcanic soils in Basilica. That is one reason that Trader Joe's can sell this wine for $5.99, but I think it delivers quite well for a wine at that price point.

 Very dark and deep. Black currants and dark cherries. Aggressive on the mid-palate but fruit-oriented and very approachable even at its young age. Good acidity for a warm climate wine. Black licorice and black pepper on the medium finish. More than just a pizza wine. After tasting a bottle, I went back and took the six bottles left on the shelf. If it appears again, I will buy more.
 

Tuesday, April 23, 2024

WillaKenzie Estate Chardonnay, 2016

Most California Chardonnays are made for drinking in the first five years after the vintage date. After that, the fresh fruit starts to fade. Oregon Chardonnays, due to the cooler climate, a different soil and the Dijon clone of the grape, are more amenable to aging for 8 to 10 years or longer, gaining complexity and depth. Now in its eighth year, this WillaKenzie Chardonnay is drinking beautifully. It was aged in a combination of wood puncheons, amphora and stainless steel tanks.

Medium deep yellow. Bright, fruit-oriented smells and a rich mouthfeel. Lemon curd and minerals. Lees contact rather than oak is giving this wine its complexity and flavor interest. Beautiful wine.

The 2018 WillaKenzie Chardonnay, in its sixth year, is now discounted at Plum Market in Ann Arbor and other places for about $15, half of its usual retail price.
 

Saturday, April 20, 2024

Antichi Vigneti di Cantalupo Colline Novaresi Amagium, 2009

This is a Nebbiolo wine from the Novara Hills of the Northern Piedmont. Amagium is Latin for Ghemme, where the vines are located. Compared to Barolo and Barbaresco, it displays a lighter, more delicate and intriguing face of Nebbiolo.

Bright crimson, translucent. Even though it is nearing its 15th birthday, this wine still requires at least two hours of aeration to show its best. Cranberries, red raspberries, violets. Swirl and enjoy. Bright flavors on the palate: red berries, sour cherries and cinnamon. Very expressive in a graceful, elegant way. It's easy to identify the acid thrust that enlivens the wine, but the tannins are also there on the mid-palate and finish, delicate, lacey and full of ripe fruit flavors. One critic (Vinous) found the finish "Chambolle-like." I don't have that much experience with fine red Burgundy, but I find it heavenly.

I paid $15 at auction for this 2009. The current vintage can be found for about $20 a bottle--an incredible bargain.
 

Friday, April 19, 2024

Domaine Philippe et Vincent Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage, 2007

The Paul Jaboulet estate is, of course, no longer in the hands of the Jaboulet family. The vines remain, but since Gerard Jaboulet died in 1997, the wines here have had their ups and downs. Philippe and Vincent are fifth and sixth generation Jaboulets who have purchased some nearby vineyards and carry on the family name. This 2007 had the misfortune of being tasted alongside the real thing in Crozes-Hermitage, the 1996 Domaine Thalabert.

Much darker than the Thalabert but conisistent with Crozes Syrah. More forward in aromas and flavors. Blackberries, cassis and pepper. Lots of black pepper. In fact, in the end, the black pepper ends up defining the wine and drowning out the fruit.  One dimensional compared to Thalabert, but then what do you expect?
 

Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Thalabert, 1996

I have tasted so many great Thalaberts from the 1980s and early 1990s that I was ready to be disappointed by this 1996, which was not the greatest vintage and produced at a time when many changes were taking place at the estate. But Domaine Thalabert never disappoints me.

Medium light crimson, a solid cork and very little sediment. For an hour or so, the bouquet is a bit muted, but the flavors are classic Thalabert. The scents that emerge over time are well worth the wait. Red and black fruits, grilled tomatoes, a hint of black pepper. Acidity that keeps the lovely flavors moving down the tongue from front to back. Comes at you from many directions, twists and turns, highs and lows. Teases and pleases. Of course, it does not measure up to the 1983, 1990, 1988 or 1991, but it is still top of the line red Syrah from Crozes-Hermitage. I love it.
 

Wednesday, April 17, 2024

WillaKenzie Estate Kiana Pinot Noir, 2006

When we visited the Willamette Valley of Oregon last October, we enjoyed a delicious and informative tasting at WillaKenzie, located in the Yamhill-Carlton area. The winery's philosophy is well summed up by a sentence on the label of this wine: "The climatic conditions, soil, slope orientation and clonal selection all contribute to the wine's finesse and elegance." Kiana is grown on southeast facing slopes (370 to 440 feet) with a shallow layer of topsoil above a hard sandstone material. The result is an opulent wine with intense fruit-oriented smells and flavors.

Maturity is reflected in the light to medium ruby color. Intense and expansive smells of ripe cherries, red berries and flowers. Sweet pie cherries on the palate along with touches of orange zest and spice. Velvety mouth feel Tannins are ripe and balanced by good acidity. Lovely, ripe finish. Irresistible.
 

Sunday, April 14, 2024

Vignerons du Mont Ventoux Cuvee des 3 Messes Basses Ventoux Rouge, 2019

This is an old favorite I have enjoyed for many years. The 2019 version is as good as ever, maybe better.

Deep and bright. Lovely smells of fresh berries, red and blue, along with herbs and spice. Fuller bodied, it seems, than past vintages but just as friendly and open. Ventoux black pepper and spice on the mid-palate and finish. Never disappointing.

3 Messes Basses is made by the cooperative at Mont Ventoux and sells for about $12 a bottle. It is worth every penny and more. In the 2019 vintage, it is 60% Grenache, 20% Carignan and 20% Syrah.
 

Friday, April 12, 2024

Schiavenza Barbera Serralunga d'Alba, 2018

As a "mystery wine," this Schiavenza Barbera was offered for less than $10 a bottle by Jon Rimmerman at Garagiste.com. It was an excellent value, since it usually retails for nearly twice that much.

Medium ruby. Not as dark, nor as bright as most Barberas. And there is significant amber at the rim. Dark cherries, earth, leather. More mature than its age would suggest, but, for me, that is a plus. Drinking well right now. Enough tannin to balance the exuberant Barbera acidity. A wine that begs you to have another sip. Excellent with tomato-based ravioli.


Tuesday, April 9, 2024

Romain Duvernay Beaumes de Venise, 2016

 

Beaumes de Venise is located only a few kilometers from Gigondas, and the grape blend used in this bottling is very similar to that used in the Gigondas (below)--60% Grenache. 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre vs. 65% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 5% Mourvedre for the Gigondas). Tasted side by side, the Gigondas is clearly superior for my taste, although Donna prefers the Beaumes de Venise. In terms of retail value, of course, the Gigondas is worth at least 50% more.

Medium deep red. A bit thin on aromas and flavors at first but grows with aeration. Cherries, red berries, dark tones. Less floral, less chalky and a bit lighter in body than the Gigondas (although both are 14.5% alcohol). Flavors and complexity grow with aeration. A very enjoyable wine but I would still be willing to pay the extra price for the Gigondas.

Sunday, April 7, 2024

Domaine du Grand Montmirail Les Deux Juliettes Vieilles Vignes, 2012

I get a distinct aroma of violets with this Gigondas. It is a smell I usually associate with Mourvedre, but this wine has only 5% Mourvedre (along with 80% Grenache and 15% Syrah). Whatever, I love the smell, love the bright Gigondas flavors.

Deep, medium dark ruby. Violets, dark cherries, baking spices, dark licorice tones. Firm tannins on the mid palate lead to cascading flavors of ripe blueberry fruit on the long and pleasure-packed finish.
 

Chateau Pegau Cuvee Maclura Cotes du Rhone, 2021

 

I have enjoyed Domaine Pegau's Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du Pape for many years but have had less experience with the Cotes du Rhone wines made by Laurence Feraud. This Cuvee Maclura takes some time to get through to my senses but does offer the strength and substance of its more expensive siblings. 

Deep and dark. Looks like a Syrah based wine even though it is 60% Grenache and 20% Syrah. Also more black than red fruits in the smells and flavors. Dark cherries, currants, black licorice. Lots of strength on the mid palate. Requires some attention but eventually the ripe fruit flavors tease themselves onto the finish.

Friday, April 5, 2024

Trader Joe's Reserve Rasteau Lot 254. 2022

The letters RASTEAU are engraved right into the bottle, and this is a true Rasteau, worthy of the appellation and a very good Cotes du Rhone Villages. At $9.99 it is a good value, and, after tasting it, I went back to buy half a case. Medium crimson, bright but translucent. Fresh cherries, berries, black papper and licorice. Has the dark mineral tones that I associate with Rasteau and Vacqueyras. The peppery structure I expect from a good CDR Villages wine. And a pleasing ripe fruit finish. This is probably made by a cooperative, and coops in the Southern Rhone are generallky very good and likely to use traditional winemaking practices.

Sunday, March 31, 2024

Cape Mentelle Margaret River Cabernet Merlot, 2005

I have always considered Cape Mentelle an excellent source of Australian Cabernet wines, but years ago I found this bottle  on the shelf for $10 or less at Binny's in Chicago. Because of the low price, perhaps, I did not take it seriously. Tasting it tonight, after all those years, I realize I should have bought a case.

Bright ruby, deep and dark. Classic Cabernet smells and flavors. Ripe and fresh. Red and black currants, mint and spice. Well defined flavors and a persistent finish. Tannins are ripe and accompanied by good red fruit acidity. Was a perfect match for Easter roast lamb dinner.