Wednesday, September 18, 2024

Elyse Hudson Vineyard Le Corbeau Red, 2008

This is, if you will, a Napa (Carneros) Chateauneuf du Pape. Crafted from 90% Grenache and 10%  Syrah,  the back label states that the goal is to echo "the great wines of Chateauneuf du Pape." As a long-time fan of the Southern Rhone appellation, I can say that this wine, while very good, is no Chateauneuf du Pape.

Dusty, brickish color. To be expected from a 16-year-old wine that is 90% Grenache. Enticing scents of strawberries and cherries and rather explosive flavors that include orange zest and vanilla. Friendly on the palate as you would expect from a Grenache-heavy wine. Compared to Chateauneuf, what it lacks, in my view, are those savory mineral and herb driven flavors that dominate a well aged Chateauneuf du Pape. 

I bought this wine for $15 at WineBid. This and other vintages of the same wine are still available for that reserve price in this week's auction.
 

Sunday, September 15, 2024

Franco Serra Barbera d'Alba, 2018

Over the past decade or so, Franco Serra has always offered one of the lowest priced Barberas on the market. And, at least for my taste, it is one of the best in that price range.

Beautiful bright ruby red color, characteristic of Barbera from the Piedmont area of Italy. Lovely bright red berry aromas and flavors. Montmorency cherries, raspberries, spices and minerals. More tannic and less sweet than other Barberas I have had in this price range, and I like that. But it is smooth and easy to drink with the characteristic Barbera acidity to give it freshness and lift.

Available at D&W in Kalamazoo for about $12 a bottle.
 

Thursday, September 12, 2024

Rosa dell Olmo Langhe Nebbiolo, 2021

Nebbiolo is the grape of Barolo and Barbaresco. And even lesser produce, as found in Langhe Nebbiolo, is highly regarded and rarely sold for less than $20 a bottle. Tbis Rosa dell Olmo, though, is available for $8 at Trader Joe's and competes quite favorably with bottles selling for twice that much.

Medium light ruby/garnet. A typical Nebbiolo color for wines that have not been aged in small new oak barrels. This wine, I believe, was actually matured in stainless steel. Ideally, I open Nebbiolo wines an hour or two before serving them. I neglected doing that with this bottle, and it was a bit closed and tannic at first but opened up within 15 or 20 minutes. Subtle aromas typical of Nebbiolo. Intense flavors of rose, red raspberry, cherry and spice. Medium full bodied with good acidic structure. Tannins are remarkably supple for a wine this young. The wine will undoubtedly become more complex with aging, but it is drinking beautifully right now.
 

Wednesday, September 11, 2024

Vignobles Lacheteau Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, 2022

I haven't had Muscadet for some time, and I have no good excuse for neglecting it. It is an excellent wine to accompany fresh fish or seafood. This little gem that is available for $6.99 at Trader Joe's put me back in the mood. 

Medium light yellow. The wine has probably seen little oak, but it has been aged on its lies (spent yeast cells), adding body and complexity. The crisp citrus acidity that is to be expected from young Muscadet but also some pleasant scents and flavors reminiscent of cool ocean breezes. Savory and dry. Medium bodied and easy to drink with or without food. I will go back for more.

Tuesday, September 10, 2024

Carpe Diem Andrerson Valley Chardonnay, 2019

As this wine ages, the cool climate acidity seems to be taking over from the rich California fruit. It is not Chablis; nor is it Dijon Clone Oregon Chardonnay but it has more in common with those appellations than with riper, fuller bodied wines from elsewhere in California.

Medium gold. Pretty floral scents and flavors backed up by green apples, lemon curd and minerals. Okay for sipping but works best with food. A good match for grilled salmon or pork medallions. I like it.
 

Sunday, September 8, 2024

Tuatea Marlborough (New Zealand) Sauvignon Blanc, 2023

Donna's first response when tasting this wine was: "passion fruit!" Mine was: "grapefruit!" And yes, it has both as well as the vibrant qualities of a good New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc.

Medium straw. Passion fruit, grapefruit and lemon grass. But also has a rich tropical fruit feeling on the mid-palate. Zesty and fresh with no hard edges. Clean, medium long finish.

This is one of my favorite Sauvignon Blancs on the market, and it's only $5.99 at Trader Joe's--a fantastic bargain.

 

Friday, September 6, 2024

Epicuro Puglia IGT Aglianico, 2022

 

At $5.99 from Trader Joe's, this Aglianico from Puglia is definitely one of the best wine buys on the market.

Bright rid, translucent. Aromas come through as soon as the cork is popped. Red raspberrie, cherries, spice. Some licorice and black pepper on the palate. On the sweet side but pleasantly so. Concentrated ripe fruit flavors on the smooth finish.

Sunday, September 1, 2024

Domaine la Fourmone Cuvee Fauquet Gigondas, 2005

A 24-year-old Gigondas is a bit iffy, and James Livingstone-Learmouth.(drinkrhone.com) who rated this wine ***(*), listed 2018-2220 as an outside drinking window for this 2005. Even so, I was willing to bid $15, and tonight I am glad I did.

Deep ruby, minimal bricking. No sign of advanced age in bouquet or flavors.Plums, black and red raspberries, garrigue. Improves nicely over the course of the meal.Tannins are firm but ripe and well balanced by acidity. Peppery spice on the persistent finish.  Great accompaniment to roast lamb. 

70% Grenache with equal parts Syrah and Mourvedre from vineyards in Petit Montmirail.Matured traditionally in concrete vats and large barrels.

Saturday, August 31, 2024

Ruhlmann Alsace Pinot Blanc Plaisir Fruite, 2018

One Australian wine merchant referred to this as "one of the easiest drinking wines on this planet." And I agree. But while it is easy to drink, it is by no means simple in any way.

Medium straw. Mellow scents and flavors of ripe pears and melon with a bit of honey. Many wines from Alsace are a bit sweet these days, but this Pinot Blanc is perfectly dry. Enough acidity for freshness but not enough to disturb the easy, peaceful feeling on the palate. Subtle twists of flavor on the medium long finish.
 

Thursday, August 29, 2024

Chateau Bel Air Bordeaux Superieure, 2020

Beside the Mary Taylor Bordeaux on the Amical wine list, this Chateau Bel Air offers a good comparison. Like the Mary Taylor, it is 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25% Cabernet Franc. I presume it has been matured in mostly seasoned neutral oak.

Deep, dark ruby. Black currants, black berries and cassis. This is much closer to what I expect from inexpensive Bordeaux . A touch of aromatic herbs, giving it lifted  aromas and flavors. Acidic intensity that creates a pleasant tingling on the palate, several minutes after the last sip. I will put this wine on my buy list.
 

Mary Taylor Bordeaux Rouge, 2020

I have read good things about Mary Taylor wines. When I saw this Bordeaux Rouge offered as a wine by the glass at Amical in Traverse City, I was quick to order it.

Very deep and dark. Very black fruited and firm on the palate so I was surprised to learn that no oak was used during maturation. All fruit, "rural" as Mary Taylor puts it.. 50% Merlot, 25% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Cabernet Franc. A big wine that matches well with an excellent roast lamb entree. I would not immediately peg it as Bordeaux, though, or even New World Merlot/Cab. Blackberry, black pepper and minerals. Good acidity and a medium long finish

 

Saturday, August 24, 2024

Chateau Grand Traverse Old Mission Peninsula Whole Cluster Riesling, 2016

Whenever I visit Chateau Grand Traverse on Old Mission Peninsula (at least once or twice each summer), this Whole Cluster Riesling is nearly always my favorite wine of those tasted. And I usually buy a bottle or two to take home. This 2016 is drinking beautifully right now.

Medium deep yellow. Mellow scents and flavors of pears and ripe apples. Pleasantly full texture on the mid-palate that is the trademark of the Whole Cluster Riesling. Medium plus acidity and only a trace of sweetness. Some complexity starting to come through in the mellow finish.

Friday, August 23, 2024

Hidden Hill Estate McLaren Vale Shiraz, 2021

 As Australian wines have gone up in price, inexpensive Aussie Shiraz rarely shows up on the shelves of  Trader Joe's. This, Hidden Hills Estate, recently appeared, though, with a $5.99 price tag. It is well worth it.

The label cites McLaren Vale, which is a good appellation, but grapes for this wine actually come from Fleurieu, a peninsula jutting into the ocean halfway between McLaren Vale and Langhorne Creek. The climate there is relatively cool, a good thing for Shiraz, in my opinion.

Deep and dark, bluish tints. Black raspberries, blackberries, anise with a , generous touch of black pepper, dark chocolate and coffee. A bold wine but with good acidity and moderate alcohol (14.5%). Drier than many Barossa Shiraz wines. Tannins are present on the mid-palate and finish but cause no problem with hearty, spicy foods.

Wednesday, August 21, 2024

Clos des Lune Lune d'Argent Bordeaux Blanc, 2017

A blend of Semillon (70%) and Sauvignon Blanc (30%). Clos des Lune Lune d'Argent is a dry wine made from grapes grown in Sautnrnes, better known, of course, for dessert wines. When consumed young, it is crisp and fresh similar to an oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc. This bottle, at seven years of age, has taken on a new personality centered on the rich texture and flavors of maturing Semillon. I like it.

Full gold color. Smells of ripe apples, fresh grass and melons. Flavors of figs and white peaches. Full bodied and rich but youthful acidity remains on the beautiful, complex finish. I love what age is doing to a wine that was also very pleasant in its youth. I have a few more bottles and will be in no hurry to drink them.

Monday, August 19, 2024

GD Vajra Langhe Rosso, 2020

The winery describes this as "a hug from Piedmont." And what a hug it is! GD Vajra's Langhe Rosso is an array of the riches of Piedmont wine: Nebbiolo, Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa, Pinot Noir a few other grapes. And the result is pure pleasure.

Bright red with violet tones. Voluptuous aromatics of Nebbiolo--rose petals, cherries, black licorice--but also the subtle scents typical of Barbera, Dolcetto, Freisa and Pinot Noir. Extremely friendly on the palate but with no sacrifice of depth or complexity. A wine that comes at your palate from all directions with subtle and ever changing flavors. Would match well with any meal from pizza to beef bourguignon.  
 

Stephen Ross San Luis Obispo Coast Pinot Noir, 2021

The third and final Pinot tasted for our AWS National Tasting Project was this Stephen Ross San Luis Obispo Coast Pinot Noir from 2021. I found it quite good and a good value at about $25.

Medium light ruby shading to garnet. Cherries, red berries--fresh and bright. Rose petals, black tea and spices. Medium bodied with good acidity. Long, ripe finish. 94 points and Editor's Choice from Wine Enthusiast. I will be on the lookout for this wine.
 

Obsidian Wine Company Carneros Pinot Noir, 2021

This wine from Obsidian Wine Company was my favorite of the three Pinots we sampled for the AWS National Tasting Project.

Notably darker than the Rodney Strong. Medium ruby color, brilliant .Enticing aromas emerge. Rose petals, ripe red berries, vanilla, baking spices. Medium light body. Delicate and pretty. Long, ripe finish with good depth. Will cost you twice as much as the Rodney Strong but will give you twice as much pleasure.
 

Rodney Strong Russian River Valley Pinot Noir, 2021

Onward to the Pinot Noir segment of the AWS National Tasting Project. This Rodney Strong Pinot Noir, selling for $15.98 at Plum Market in Ann Arbor, is a real bargain for a Russian River Pinot. But it really didn't do much for me.

Medium dark garnet color. Aromas are slow to open. Cherries, plums, spice. Medium intensity flavors. Some complexity develops on the finish.Pleasant but lacks the excitement I expect from Russian River Pinot Noir.
 

Au Bon Climat Santa Barbara County Chardonnay, 2022

The final Chardonnay for our AWS National Tasting Project, this Santa Barbara Chardonnay sells for $26, and the winemaker, Jim Clendenen, says it will "age for at least another decade." This is my style of wine, and it is now on my buy list.

Brilliant, light straw color. White peaches, lemon zest, minerals and even a hint of flint. Good acidity and a long finish. The French oak barrels used for aging were mostly neutral but some spicy notes have been picked up from time spent maturing on its lees (spent yeast cells). Jim Clendenen is one of my favorite winemakers. I have enjoyed his Pinots and was glad to get a taste of his Chardonnay.

Clos Pegase Mitsuko's Vineyard Carneros Chardonnay, 2020

Next in line for the AWS National Tasting Project was this Carneros Chardonnay from Clos Pegase. Notably, those at our table who disliked the Frei Brothers wine were right on board with this one. I ranked it the lowest of the three Chardonnays.

Deeper, darker straw color and not as bright as the Frei Brothers. Aromas are a bit muted at first but open a bit as dthe wine aerates. Still lacks the enticing aromas that I found in the Frei Brothers. Ripe apple Carneros profile with a mellow finish. Medium intensity. According to the winery, the wine was barrel fermented "to increase the oak characteristic and develop complexity." Good wine but not my style, especially considering the retail price of $38.
 

Frei Brothers Russian River Sonoma Reserve Chardonnay, 2022

We tasted three California Chardonnays and three California Pinot Noirs yesterday for day #2 of the American Wine Society's National Tasting Project. This Russian River Charonnay from Frei Brothers was my favorite of the evening.

Beautiful light straw color, bright and clear. Looks elegant, and it is. Subtle floral aromas along with ripe apple, pear and minerals. Very focused with well defined fruit and good acidity. Elegant finish. Many at our table did not like this wine, probably because they like bolder, more buttery profiles in their Chardonnays. My descriptors for this wine would include "lacey," "delicate," "subtle." At $20 a bottle, I am a buyer.
 

Saturday, August 17, 2024

Domaine Jean Deydier et Fils Les Clefs d'Or Les Craus Centennaire, 2009

This special bottling of Les Clefs d'Or comes from Grenache vineyards planted in Les Craus in the 1890s. Yields are very low, resulting in high concentration of fabulous smells and flavors. It is produced only in good vintages such as 2005, 2007, 2009 and 2015. 

100% Grenache in 2009. Deep crimson, much darker than the 2000 regular bottling Then again it is nine years younger. Intense red berry fruit, ripe and concentrated. Absolutely astounding. Sweet but multi-dimensional lavors that grow and change as they glide over the tongue. Yes, this is a treasure of a wine. More ripe fruit, less spice and pepper than the 2000 Les Clefs d'Or Tradition, but that may change as the wine ages. 
 

Friday, August 16, 2024

Domaine Jean Deydier et Fils Les Clefs d'Or Chateauneuf du Pape, 2000

Les Clefs d'Or has some excellent vineyards in Chateaunuef du Pape, including very old Grenache vines in the highly regarded Les Craus. This is the Les Clefs d'Or Tradition bottling which blends grapes from all of the estate's vineyards.

Medium light with considerable bricking on a small pour. In a full glass, though, the wine shows a much deeper crimson. Smells and tastes like traditional Chateauneuf. Cherries, strawberries, sea salt. Savory. Beautiful Grenache red berry fruit becomes increasingly apparent as the wine airs. Peppery Southern Rhone spice on a delicious finish.

I have had six bottles of this 2000 over the past decade, and this bottle is definitely showing the best. Les Clefs d'Or wines age well.
 

Thursday, August 15, 2024

Tenuta di Arcena Chianti Classico DOCG, 2021


 Hidden away beside a fillling station at the junction of Highway 30 and Interstate 469 near Fort Wayne, IN is Salavatori's Ristorante. Salvatori's is a real gem, serving up huge portions of some of the best pasta dishes I have ever had...and at very modest prices. The wine list is modest with four or five choices of red or white wine for $10 glass. I ordered a glass of Chianti Classico, and it was so good I asked to see the bottle so I would know what I was drinking. Tenuta di Arcena is now on my buy list.

Bright ruby red. Dark cherries, blueberries, violets and blood oranges. Vibrant fruit and just the right level of acidity and plenty of flavor interest. Hint of black pepper on the slightly warm finish. Matches perfectly with the Rigatoni Basilicata.

Even though you can get a glass of it for only $10 at Salvatori's, Tenuta di Arcuna is not cheap, with a retail price of $25 to $30 a bottle. The person who knows how to make such incredible pasta sauces apparently also knows how to select wine.

Friday, August 9, 2024

Kirkland Signature Vacqueyras. 2022

I was a bit disappointed with the Yves Cheron Gigondas that cost me $15 a glass at Everyday People Cafe in Douglas, MI. The wine was good but lacked the special aromatic qualities I expect in a Gigondas. From the 2018 vintage, it is still young. Tonight, though, eating the leftovers of my rich pasta with meatballs dish, this younger Vacqueyras gives me what I want in a Southern Rhone wine. And it cost only $11.45 for a full bottle.

Bright crimson, medium deep, clearly traditionally made. Still young and takes a few minutes to open up, but the Southern Rhone traits are apparent. Garrigue that matches up well with the herbs in the pasta dish. Red and black fruits, licorice and black pepper. Good vacqueyras at an excellent price. I will be back for more.
 

Monday, August 5, 2024

Eden Valley Old Butts Shiraz, 1999

This wine was very good but fully mature when I had it three years ago. When I saw another bottle available at the same reserve price ($15) last December, I hesitated. Not many Australian wines are capable of going strong for 25 years. But remembering the pleasure I got from the last bottle, I just had to give it another try. And  I am glad I did..

The "old butts" are gnarled, tree-like vines like those you may have seen if you ever visited Gigondas in France. And the vines were 80 years old in 1999. The wine was aged in a combination of French and American oak, small barrels. And it is drinking beautifully tonight.

Light brick color of a mature wine. Entrancing smells reminiscent of one of my favorite wines, the Domaine Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage of Paul Jaboulet. Dried fruit, olives, leather, cured meats. Compact like fruit cake. More savory than sweet. Loads of complexity. And a finish that lingers long after the last sip.Special wine.

Saturday, August 3, 2024

Franco Serra Langhe Nebbiolo, 2015

I have enjoyed the Barbera d'Alba wines from Franco Serra for the past 10 to 15 years. At $10 to $12 a bottle, the are amazing values. Yet at the wine stores where I shop, the Langhe Nebbiolo, selling for only a dollar or two more, is rarely available. When I can find it, though, I buy it in quantity for it is an even a greater value.

Medium ruby with the orangeish rim that is the hallmark of good Nebbiolo. The entrancing aromatics of a good Barolo--rose petals, spices, herbs. And from there it just gets better. Licorice tinged cherry, bright and lovely. Tannins galore but fruit and acid to balance. Very dry. Complex finish.

 

Friday, August 2, 2024

DeLoach Vineyards Heritage Reserve California Pinot Noir, 2022

This is the entry level California Pinot Noir from Deloach, offered at $10 a glass at Zoorona Restaurant in Kalamazoo, but it has qualities that I expect to find in much more expensive Pinots from the Russian River area of northern California or the Willamette Valley of  Oregon.

Deep ruby red. Red and black berries, cherries and spice. Medium bodied. Classic Pinot texture in the mouth and lemon peel acidity on the finish. Reminds me of a Willamette Valley Pinot. Not your delicate Pinot Noir, it stands up well to spicy Middle Eastern fare but would also match up with salmon or lighter meat dishes. At $12 to $15 a bottle, this offers an excellent value.
 

Wednesday, July 31, 2024

Sonoma Cutrer Les Pierres Single Barrel Private Select Chardonnay, 2017

Sonoma Cutrer is one of the top producers of California Chardonnary; Les Pierres Vineyard (named for the large stones that cover the soil) is arguably the estate's  best offering; and this bottle was created from a single barrel chosen by the winemaker as the best representative of 2017 Les Pierres. I expected a lot from this wine, and I got it.

Bright, medium straw. Wow! Lemon creme, lime, honey dew melon, minerals. Tightly packed and focused fruit and mineral flavors. Savory rather than sweet. Citrus-laced acidity that the estate claims as a hallmark of its Chardonnay wines. In a blind tasting, I probably would have pegged this as coming from the Willamette Valley of Oregon--high praise from me.

Somehow I managed to secure this wine from WineBid last December for $15. I presume that most bidders worried that a 2017 California Chardonnay might be past its prime. My view: it has probably reached prime drinking but is holding well. Wish I had more.
 

Tuesday, July 30, 2024

Pertinace Barbera d'Alba, 2019

There are a lot of similarities between California Pinot Noir and Barbera d'Alba wines from Italy. This Barbera, tasted alongside the Hahn SLH Pinot Noir illustrated some of those similarities.

Dark ruby, more saturated color than the Pinot. Intense fruit flavors--blackberry, dark cherry, spice. Fuller bodied than the Pinot but has even greater acidity. Ripe, fresh and exciting with a medium long finish. Perfect with appetizers but has more tannin than the Pinot and overwhelms the subtle flavors of tilapia almondine.
 

Hahn Santa Lucia Highlands Monterey Pinot Noir, 2015

I ordinarily avoid Pinot Noirs from Monterey County, CA because so many of them have high levels of pyrazine, a green herbal element that some like but that I find highly offensive. This Pinot, though, is from the higher altitude Santa Lucia Highlands, and I find not a trace of pyrazine.

Medium light shading to amber at the rim. Looks and tastes fully mature. Ripe fruit, flowers and spice. Black raspberries, anise and subtle oak. Has enough acidity to keep the flavors fresh but probably less than I would expect from an Oregon Pinot Noir. I will keep SLH Pinots on my radar.
 

Sunday, July 28, 2024

Vignerons du Mont Ventoux Cuvee des 3 Messes Basses, 2019

Throughout the late 1980s and early 1990s, I bought nnd enjoyed four or five cases of Southern Rhone wines every year. But imes and wine-making practices have changed. Today, this is one of only two wines from that area that offer me the same fruity intensity anx excitment at an every day price. (The other is the Ventoux from Famille Perrin that is available exclusively from Plum Market in Ann Arbor)..

Deep and dark red. Black and red raspberries, minerals, spice and black pepper. 60% Grenache, 20% Carignan, 20% Syrah. Carignan seems to add some color, spice and tannic structure but does not detract from the traditional flavors. Lots of black pepper on the mid-palate and finish. Plenty of acidity to keep it fresh and exciting. 
 

Thursday, July 25, 2024

Domaine Arnaud Lambert Clos de Midi Breze Saumur Blanc, 2018

I was impressed with this Saumur Chenin Blanc when I had it a wine tasting five years ago. I bought three bottles but felt sure that they would be even better with a few years in the cellar.. Tonight I was rewarded for my patience. It is a different wine from the one I had at the tasting but oh so much better.

Deep gold color. Lovely scents and flavors of fresh pears, flowers, spices and lemon peel. After an hour or so the pears take a back seat to ripe apricots, honey and damp hay. Full body (13.5% alcohol) and round texture but with Loire Valley acidity to keep it fresh and lively. Flavors evolve and expand. Very dry. Not a wine for drinking on the deck unless you are in a contemplative mood. We enjoyed it with Margharita pizza but it is a serious wine that will dress up any meal. 

Saturday, July 20, 2024

Domaine Notre Dame des Pallieres Sablet L'Olivet, 2019

This Cotes du Rhone Villages is 60% Grenache, but the Syrah (40%) is showing most priominently right now.

Bright, medium deep ruby. Swirling reveals some lovely rose petal scents. Black as well as red berries, currants, cassis and black pepper. Suave and sophisticated. Drinking beautifully right now. 
 

Sunday, July 14, 2024

Elyse Le Corbeau Hudson Vineyard Los Carneros Grenache Blend, 2005

I usually don't find much to like in California imitations of Chateauneuf du Pape. This wine is a major exception. It is 90% Grenache and  10% Syrah from the esteemed Hudson Vineyard. The label describes it as "echoing the great wines of Chateauneuf du Pape," and I tend to agree.

Light, brickish red whern poured as a taste. Grenache tends to develop oxidative notes, and this can be positive as well as negative if you like Southern Rhone reds. Darker crimson when poured as a glass. Also some oxidative notes on the nose, but these add to the depth and complexity of the wine. Dark cherries, black licorice and peppercorn. Savory rather than sweet. Sea salt and compact fruit cake flavors. At 19 years, this wine is well aged, but it holds up well over three days without any hint of decline.
 

Saturday, July 13, 2024

Carpe Diem Anderson Valley Chardonnay, 2019

Made from grapes grown in the cool Anderson Valley of northern California, this wine has some of the qualities that I like in Oregon Chardonnays. I doubt, though, that the grapes are Dijon clone for it lacks some of the subtleties of aroma and flavor that characterize Dijon clone Chardonnays that I have had.

Medium deep yellow. Freshly squeezed lemon acidity. Lemons, butter, vanilla, honeydew melon. Medium bodied with some rich fruit on the mid-palate. Drinking beautifully now with plentiful acidity and tannin, but I am not sure I would like it at age 10.
 

Thursday, July 11, 2024

Thomas Goss McLaren Vale Shiraz, 2016

This McLaren Vale Shiraz is coming along nicely at eight years of age, but it still may have a year or two of positive development ahead of it.

Deep and dark but not opaque. Red fruits emerging to go along with Shiraz black fruits and spice. Shows more acidity than it did a few years ago, but the tannins and alcohol (14.5%) still define this wine. Definitely an old style Australian Shiraz and a good buy at $15 or under.

Tuesday, July 9, 2024

Chateau Grand Traverse Gamay Noir Reserve, 2012

Many Michigan wineries are obsessed with creating "big" red wines, similar to those in California, even though the climate in the state is more conducive to producing smaller red wines, similar to those of Germany and Austria. My favorite Michigan red is this Gamay Noir from Chateau Grand Traverse. To me, it is more like a Pinot Noir than the estate's own Pinot Noir.

Medium deep color, has not lightened as much you might expect 12 years after the vintage. Enticing scents of flowers and dark cherries. Same on the palate. If anything, this wine serems to be putting on, rather than losing, weight with advancing age. Big fruit on the finish, but it is clearly time to drink up for this 2012
 

Monday, July 8, 2024

Tour Saint Bonnet Cru Bourgeois Medoc, 1995

This is not a big-name Bordeaux, and it is 29 years past its vintage date. The price tag from the 1990s reads $14.95, but this wine still sells today for about that price. Yet tonight it is drinking as a beautiful example of mature Bordeaux.

Medium deep red, minimal bricking. Lovely bouquet of fresh berries and flowers. Cabernet (45%) /Merlot (45%) fruit in its prime. (Also has some Malbec and Petit Verdot in the blend.) Cherries, currants, cassis and a hint of black tea on the mid-palate. Tannins have faded away and there are no hard edges. Suave dinner wine. I think it has improved since my last bottle a year ago. It certainly has not declined.
 

Saturday, July 6, 2024

Domaine Sainte-Anne Saint Gervais, 2005

This 2005 Saint Gervais is holding well for a Cotes du Rhone Villages. Now known as Les Rouvieres, this cuvee is 60 to 70% Mourvedre planted in the early to mid-1960s plus Syrah and Grenache. Current vintages sell for $25 to $30 a bottle. It has always been one of my favorite Southern Rhones.

Medium cherry red shading to garnet. Blue and black berry fruit with Mourvedre violets and touch of black pepper..Supple fruit on the mid-palate and finish well supported by acid. Drinks like a much younger wine.
 

Wednesday, July 3, 2024

Mount Langi Ghiran Heathcote Shiraz, 2019

This wine is not Langi Shiraz, the flagship wine of Mount Langi Ghiran that sells for $200 a bottle at the estate. Langi Shiraz comes from vineyards nurtured by the late, great Australian winemaker Trevor Mast, who owned this estate from the mid 1980s until 2002, establishing its sterling reputation. This Heathcote Shiraz, that I bought for $13 a bottle at LastBottleWines.com, is from purchased grapes, and, as a result, does not command the price of other wines from Mount Langi Ghiran. From personal experience, though, I know that Trevor Mast had great respect for Heathcote Shiraz. This 2019 bottling has had mixed reviews online, but my initial impression is positive.

Medium deep color. Does not appear to have had extensive oak treatment. Lovely lifted aromas, then flavors that are dry on entry and get increasingly ripe as they travel down the tongue. Blackberries, dark cherries, cassis. Lacks the strong black peppercorn smells that I remember from Langi Shiraz from the late 1980s and early 1990s, but there are some dark notes more like licorice or almond paste. Delightful to drink right now, but I suspect it will get more complex with a few years in the bottle. 
 

Sunday, June 30, 2024

Eric Kent Sangiacomo Green Acres Hill Sonoma Coast Chardonnay, 2016

High quality Chardonnay fruit from the Sonoma Coast is well framed and presented in this wine from the Eric Kent Winery.

Medium deep yellow. A toasty note upfront introduces complex smells and flavors. Lime, Red Delicious apples, abundant spice. Plenty of oak but it is well chosen to highlight the high quality Sangiacomo fruit. Rich in texture but only 13.7% alcohol. Even though it is now eight years old, it is holding well, although the flavors drop off considerably on the second night.

I bought this from WineBid for $15, and several bottles are still available in this week's auction.
 

Friday, June 28, 2024

Le Grand Noir Chardonnay, 2022

This is a Languedoc Chardonnay (85%) with Viognier (15%) added for some zip. The label identifies it as the piano (Chardonnay) and the clarinet (Viognier). It is a good every day white that received 92 points from the Wine Enthusiast and is available right now for $9.99 at my local Costco store.

Medium light straw. Lifted Viognier aromas of flowers, white peaches and vanilla. Apricots and melon on the palate. Not particularly high in acid but has the fresh mouth feel (and the clarinet tones) of Viognier.
 

Thursday, June 27, 2024

Willamette Valley Vineyards White Pinot Noir, 2021

When I bought this wine last July ($23.99 at Costco), it was a very good white wine. A year later, it has taken on the depth and complexity of a fine Willamette Valley Pinot Noir--everything Pinot but without the color. The grapes went though a very light pressing and were then matured in neutral French oak.

Bright white color. Smells like Pinot--flowers, minerals, lots of depth and complexity. Has some white wine flavors: white peaches, pears, lemon zest, white pepper but still comes across to me as a delicate, graceful Willamette Valley Pinot Noir. Even matched with the aggresssive flavors of lamb chops, it stands up well. Wood and fruit tannins are firm but not at all hard. Subtlety and charm in the long finish. I bought four bottles; wish I had bought more.
 

Wednesday, June 26, 2024

Domaine du Grand Tinel Chateauneuf du Pape, 2000

I have had many excellent bottles of Grand Tinel from the 1988, 1990 and 1995 vintages. It is often one of the least expensive Chateauneufs but drinks at a higher level. Since 2006, Grand Tinel has been made in a more modern, international style, including some aging in new oak, that does not appeal to me. This 2000, though, is made in the traditional style and is very good.

Very dark for a Grenache-dominant wine. And there is more black than red fruit in the smells and flavors. Rich, concentrated flavors. A bit of sea salt and a bit of earth along with cherries and pepper. Alcohol at 14.5% shows a little but does not distract from the Chateauneuf profile.
 

Willamette Valley Vineyards Dijon Clone Chardonnay, 2017

There is a zing to Oregon Chardonnays that I really like. And this Dijon Clone Chardonnay from Willamette Valley Vineyards is a prime example. While most California Chardonnays are in decline by age five, this Dijon Clone is doing quite well in its seventh year.

Bright, medium yellow color. Rich, zesty smells and flavors of lemon curd, white peach and a hint of butterscotch. Mouth watering acidity and a long, fruit filled finish.
 

Wednesday, June 19, 2024

Careglio Roero DOCG, 2010

There is nothing on the label to indicate that this wine is Nebbiolo, but it is 100% Nebbiolo from vineyards in Roero just across the Tanaro River from Alba and the nearby vineyards that produce Barolo and Barbaresco. When I tasted the 2010 Careglio Roero in 2021, I found it to be quite like a Barolo albeit with gentler, less aggressive tannins. Now, three years later, I  find alll of those delightful Nebbiolo qualities and a few more. It drinks well now and I don't see it going into decline any time soon.

Ruby red shading to garnet with orange tones characteristic of the grape. Enticing scents of rose petals, violets, red berries. Flavors of dark cherries, cloves, and black licorice. If this were a 20-year-old Barolo, I would be very happy with it. It is approachable, charming and delicious.
 

Tuesday, June 18, 2024

Bybee Estate and Habitat Sera Russian River Pinot Noir, 2006

When I encountered this wine for a low reserve price at WineBid a few months ago, I was a bit leery (as were other potential bidders) because of its age. But over the past decade, I have had several superb Bybee Estate Pinots from the 2005, 2006 and 2007 vintages. The 2007 Sera was probably the best of the lot. Admitting that it might be past its prime, I figured it would still be superior to most Pinots in this price range ($15). And it certainly was.

Medium dark ruby. Several shades darker than the Mary Elke beside it. The bouquet and flavors were breathtaking--rich red and black fruits along with baking spices and some savory tones. The satiny smooth texture, though, is what sets it apart. Coats the tongue with Pinot pleasure.
 

Mary Elke Boonville Barter Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2013

I have always liked Mary Elke's Pinot Noirs, and this wine looked like a winner coming out of the gate. Even though it is the least expensive Pinot from this estate, I expected more than I got from it tonight. That is probably in part because it was tasted alongside a very good 2006 Pinot from Bybee Estate and Habitat.

Bright medium light red. Nice floral tinged bouquet along with some fresh cherry berry flavors. Fruit is good but not very complex and there is a bit of a sharp edge on the finish. 

On the second night, I find a lot more to like. Fruit is deeper and the sharp edge is gone. Mary Elke told me this Boonville Barter should go 10 to 15 years. So maybe it just needs a little time.
 

Sunday, June 16, 2024

Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du Pape, 1989

I have always liked the 1989 Pegau Cuvee Reservee even better than the highly rated 1990 which was a major factor in drawing attention to the fine Chateauneufs produced at this estate. At 35 years of age, it is as delicious and powerful as it was when I tasted it at the winery in the early 1990s.

Deep and dark for a 35 year old Chateauneuf. Ripe and broad shouldered from the first sip. 80% Grenache but more black than red fruit, dried as well as fresh. Plums, berries, leather, black pepper, licorice and Provencal herbs. As always, fills the mouth with pleasure. The ultimate example of the masculine style of Chateauneuf, rich and concentrated. Perfect with a Father's Day dinner of Provencal style roast lamb.