Paul Jaboulet Aine Domaine de Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, 1988

Probably the first wine I ever bought in quantity was the Paul Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage. The vintage was 1978, and the highly acclaimed Domaine de Thalabert was probably already sold out. So the staff at Village Corner directed me to Jaboulet's regular cuvee, and I bought a case. It was so good that I went back to the well at least twice and still have one bottle in the cellar. Every year after that, the staff directed me to the Domaine Thalabert, and I bought at least a case every vintage through the 1980s decade. It was one of the smartest things I have ever done.

Looking down on a full glass, the color is deep and dark, almost impenetrable still. With a small pour, the bricking that comes with aging is more apparent. The bouquet is unmistakable Thalabert: savory scents of black fruits, cassis, black olives, earth and minerals. Absolutely entrancing. At the front of mouth, the ripe black fruit is still there. The savory, acidic elements take over on the mid-palate and finish. TheThalabert dance is still there, as it was on the 1980 Thalabert we enjoyed last week. A bit more tannin and a bit more acid in the younger sibling. 

The 1978 regular Crozes in the cellar is well past its prime, and I had a few weak bottles of the 1989 Thalabert. Otherwise, this seems to be a wine that never grows old. I love it.