Looking down on a full glass, the color is deep and dark, almost impenetrable still. With a small pour, the bricking that comes with aging is more apparent. The bouquet is unmistakable Thalabert: savory scents of black fruits, cassis, black olives, earth and minerals. Absolutely entrancing. At the front of mouth, the ripe black fruit is still there. The savory, acidic elements take over on the mid-palate and finish. TheThalabert dance is still there, as it was on the 1980 Thalabert we enjoyed last week. A bit more tannin and a bit more acid in the younger sibling.
The 1978 regular Crozes in the cellar is well past its prime, and I had a few weak bottles of the 1989 Thalabert. Otherwise, this seems to be a wine that never grows old. I love it.