Monday, January 27, 2014

Paul Jaboulet Domaine de Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, 1994

The last bottle of this I opened a few weeks ago was muted and not very interesting. I suspected something was wrong--probably corked but at a lower than usual level. This bottle confirmed my suspicions about the first bottle and strengthened my confidence in Domaine de Thalabert.

The color has lightened a bit, and the bouquet is initially somewhat understated. With aeration, though, it comes forth nicely with scents of currants, red and black, and a hint of cassis. On the palate, there is the usual Thalabert charm and complexity. Red and black fruits, black olives and herbs. Rich mid-palate and a long ripe finish. Reverberates as only a Thalabert can.

This doesn't measure up to the excellent Thalaberts produced in the 1980s, most of which are still drinking well. But it's reached the magic age of 20 years and, for my taste, is one of the best Syrah wines on the market.

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