Franco Serra Barbaresco, 2008

By the glass, this is rather expensive--$14--at Zazio's Italian Restaurant in Kalamazoo. But I rarely find a Barbaresco as a wine-by-the-glass. And I wanted a chance to try this Franco Serra because it is available right now for $23 at Bacchus Wine and Spirits on Oakland Boulevard. One of the Nebbiolo aristocrats of Italian wine, Barbaresco usually sells for $30 and up. My judgment is that this wine is a good value, whether you buy it by the glass at Zazio's or by the bottle at Bacchus.

Deep, dark robe. Even when young, Nebbiolo often has some orange tones. Deep scents of dark cherries, licorice and hints of flowers--again very Nebbiolo. Warm, luxurious mouth feel with well defined flavors. Nothing overstated but everything in place for graceful aging. Perfect with braised short ribs and opens up over the course of the meal. Tannins don't become noticeable until late in the meal. As I've heard so many times from guests drinking Barolo or Barbaresco for the first time: this wine is very dry. Yes, it's dry, but it's certainly not flat nor devoid of fruit. A dryness that just makes you want another glass.