Friday, January 17, 2014

Chateau Tahbilk Goulbourn Valley Marsanne, 1992

This is one of the most unique wines I've ever had. And after four straight nights of contemplating its virtues, I still cannot say for sure how much I like it.

My wife passed on the wine as soon as she saw the color and tasted what she sensed as "too sweet." Tahbilk's Marsanne comes in a clear bottle, and it has been an old gold color for at least a decade. That is the way it is made. It is a dry table, not a dessert, wine, and it is made to be aged for many years. The estate is selling this wine on its web site for about $30 a bottle.

I admit that it is hard to get past the mature color. I keep expecting bitter, oxidized smells and flavors but don't find them. Honey, flowers and mineral. This is actually the ultimate of a "mineralized" quality in wine--not quite fruit, not quite anything else but interesting. Ripe dried apricot flavors. Rich and ripe; clings to the palate. Very ripe, long finish but definitely not a dessert wine. I like it but wish it had a bit more acid to bring it to life.

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