Saturday, August 17, 2024

Domaine Jean Deydier et Fils Les Clefs d'Or Les Craus Centennaire, 2009

This special bottling of Les Clefs d'Or comes from Grenache vineyards planted in Les Craus in the 1890s. Yields are very low, resulting in high concentration of fabulous smells and flavors. It is produced only in good vintages such as 2005, 2007, 2009 and 2015. 

100% Grenache in 2009. Deep crimson, much darker than the 2000 regular bottling Then again it is nine years younger. Intense red berry fruit, ripe and concentrated. Absolutely astounding. Sweet but multi-dimensional lavors that grow and change as they glide over the tongue. Yes, this is a treasure of a wine. More ripe fruit, less spice and pepper than the 2000 Les Clefs d'Or Tradition, but that may change as the wine ages. 
 

Friday, August 16, 2024

Domaine Jean Deydier et Fils Les Clefs d'Or Chateauneuf du Pape, 2000

Les Clefs d'Or has some excellent vineyards in Chateaunuef du Pape, including very old Grenache vines in the highly regarded Les Craus. This is the Les Clefs d'Or Tradition bottling which blends grapes from all of the estate's vineyards.

Medium light with considerable bricking on a small pour. In a full glass, though, the wine shows a much deeper crimson. Smells and tastes like traditional Chateauneuf. Cherries, strawberries, sea salt. Savory. Beautiful Grenache red berry fruit becomes increasingly apparent as the wine airs. Peppery Southern Rhone spice on a delicious finish.

I have had six bottles of this 2000 over the past decade, and this bottle is definitely showing the best. Les Clefs d'Or wines age well.
 

Thursday, August 15, 2024

Tenuta di Arcena Chianti Classico DOCG, 2021


 Hidden away beside a fillling station at the junction of Highway 30 and Interstate 469 near Fort Wayne, IN is Salavatori's Ristorante. Salvatori's is a real gem, serving up huge portions of some of the best pasta dishes I have ever had...and at very modest prices. The wine list is modest with four or five choices of red or white wine for $10 glass. I ordered a glass of Chianti Classico, and it was so good I asked to see the bottle so I would know what I was drinking. Tenuta di Arcena is now on my buy list.

Bright ruby red. Dark cherries, blueberries, violets and blood oranges. Vibrant fruit and just the right level of acidity and plenty of flavor interest. Hint of black pepper on the slightly warm finish. Matches perfectly with the Rigatoni Basilicata.

Even though you can get a glass of it for only $10 at Salvatori's, Tenuta di Arcuna is not cheap, with a retail price of $25 to $30 a bottle. The person who knows how to make such incredible pasta sauces apparently also knows how to select wine.

Friday, August 9, 2024

Kirkland Signature Vacqueyras. 2022

I was a bit disappointed with the Yves Cheron Gigondas that cost me $15 a glass at Everyday People Cafe in Douglas, MI. The wine was good but lacked the special aromatic qualities I expect in a Gigondas. From the 2018 vintage, it is still young. Tonight, though, eating the leftovers of my rich pasta with meatballs dish, this younger Vacqueyras gives me what I want in a Southern Rhone wine. And it cost only $11.45 for a full bottle.

Bright crimson, medium deep, clearly traditionally made. Still young and takes a few minutes to open up, but the Southern Rhone traits are apparent. Garrigue that matches up well with the herbs in the pasta dish. Red and black fruits, licorice and black pepper. Good vacqueyras at an excellent price. I will be back for more.
 

Monday, August 5, 2024

Eden Valley Old Butts Shiraz, 1999

This wine was very good but fully mature when I had it three years ago. When I saw another bottle available at the same reserve price ($15) last December, I hesitated. Not many Australian wines are capable of going strong for 25 years. But remembering the pleasure I got from the last bottle, I just had to give it another try. And  I am glad I did..

The "old butts" are gnarled, tree-like vines like those you may have seen if you ever visited Gigondas in France. And the vines were 80 years old in 1999. The wine was aged in a combination of French and American oak, small barrels. And it is drinking beautifully tonight.

Light brick color of a mature wine. Entrancing smells reminiscent of one of my favorite wines, the Domaine Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage of Paul Jaboulet. Dried fruit, olives, leather, cured meats. Compact like fruit cake. More savory than sweet. Loads of complexity. And a finish that lingers long after the last sip.Special wine.

Saturday, August 3, 2024

Franco Serra Langhe Nebbiolo, 2015

I have enjoyed the Barbera d'Alba wines from Franco Serra for the past 10 to 15 years. At $10 to $12 a bottle, the are amazing values. Yet at the wine stores where I shop, the Langhe Nebbiolo, selling for only a dollar or two more, is rarely available. When I can find it, though, I buy it in quantity for it is an even a greater value.

Medium ruby with the orangeish rim that is the hallmark of good Nebbiolo. The entrancing aromatics of a good Barolo--rose petals, spices, herbs. And from there it just gets better. Licorice tinged cherry, bright and lovely. Tannins galore but fruit and acid to balance. Very dry. Complex finish.

 

Friday, August 2, 2024

DeLoach Vineyards Heritage Reserve California Pinot Noir, 2022

This is the entry level California Pinot Noir from Deloach, offered at $10 a glass at Zoorona Restaurant in Kalamazoo, but it has qualities that I expect to find in much more expensive Pinots from the Russian River area of northern California or the Willamette Valley of  Oregon.

Deep ruby red. Red and black berries, cherries and spice. Medium bodied. Classic Pinot texture in the mouth and lemon peel acidity on the finish. Reminds me of a Willamette Valley Pinot. Not your delicate Pinot Noir, it stands up well to spicy Middle Eastern fare but would also match up with salmon or lighter meat dishes. At $12 to $15 a bottle, this offers an excellent value.