Damilano Barbera d'Alba, 2005

Barbera from the Piedmont region of Italy is usually consumed at a fairly young age because of its upfront fruit charm. This wine has that charm, but it has also some tannic structure and a depth that requires your attention. Like most Barberas, it is a useful wine because it has enough acid to drink with light meat or vegetable meals and enough dark fruit depth to go with beef, lamb or richly sauced dishes.

The 2005 Damilano Barbera is a very deep ruby color with big fruit aromas--dark cherry, licorice, cassis and flowers. In the mouth, it's even better, coating the tongue with intense dark fruit flavors but no heat or hard tannins. The finish is smooth and beautiful. This is not Barolo, but it is a good poor man's substitute.