Thursday, February 11, 2010

Matthieu de Brully Rully les Mollepierres, 2004

A somewhat stale, oxidized note struck me on my first sip of this wine. I had detected this on earlier bottles a year or so ago and attributed it to premature aging. I had determined at that time to drink up remaining bottles of my stash, but this last bottle had escaped my attention. Oh, well; should I drink it and suffer? or pour it down the drain? I went so far as to retrieve a replacement bottle from the cellar. But as I kept tasting, I realized that the sweet fruit finish was quite nice...and getting better. It wasn't long before the replacement bottle was forgotten. This Rully is pretty damn good.

The color is a deep gold, and the oxidized note remains, but it becomes gradually less noticeable, tasting and smelling more like hazelnuts or grain than stale apples. It blends nicely with the maturing peachy fruit of the Chardonnay. On the second night, the wine is even better--silky texture and ripe fruit finish. Too bad this is my last bottle.

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