Friday, February 12, 2010

Jean Descombes Morgon, 1995

This is probably my all-time favorite Jean Descombes--15 years in the bottle and still growing. When it was young, this 1995 Morgon was a deep, dark, bluish color; it was full bodied with the rich texture and flavors of raspberry puree. Through the years the color has lightened to the point that it is now a light, but bright, cherry red with some amber around the rim. The aromas are also very cherry with some pomegranate and anise. The wine has lost its thickness and is all the better for it; it is now light and delicate with persistent aromas and flavors of sweet berries and spice. It's been about two years since my last bottle of this 1995, but it's still singing. Very Burgundian.

The Jean Descombes Morgon now on the market is the 2008 (still only $13.99 at D&W in southwest Michigan). It's very ripe (riper than I remember the 1995 at this stage) and probably drinking at its best right now, although I would be comfortable letting a few bottles ride for six to eight years to see what happens. The Jean Descombes most like the 1995, in my view, is the 2005.

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