Camille Cayran Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne Reserve, 2004

This wine is a medium ruby, slightly burnished, nearing maturity. A fruit-cake bouquet is forming, rich and compacted: red cherries, strawberries, licorice and spice and a hint of volatility. On the palate, the wine is well balanced and smooth with a concentrated mid-palate presence and a peppery finish.

Camille Cayran clearly does not have the depth of a l'Oratoire Saint Martin (my favorite Cairanne), but it's a good Cairanne made in the old-fashioned style. This 2004 is for drinking soon, but I'll be on the lookout for later vintages.