Sunday, February 3, 2008

Morgon Cru du Beaujolais Grande Cuvee Georges Duboeuf, 2000

What a comedown this wine is from the Jean Descombes Morgons from both 1995 and 2005 (see posting of January 26)! The 2000 vintage was a very good one in Beaujolais so I bought a bottle of this when I saw it on closeout and kept it for a few years to see how it would develop. It's not age that is the problem. The wine is not oxidized and has good, lively fruit but, compared to the excellent Morgons crafted by Jean and Nicole Descombes year after year, this wine is one-dimensional and over-ripe.

The color is much darker than the Descombes wines, leading me to believe it may have seen some new oak. It's still fresh and lively with scents and flavors of cherries, apricots and bananas. Yes, it's the apricots and bananas that bring this wine down--over-ripe to the point of tasting bitter. There are also some smoky, burnt issues that eventually make it hard for me to keep swallowing. Fortunately, I only bought one bottle.

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