Auxey Duresses is sometimes called the poor man's Mersault or Mersault's younger brother. Auxey Duresses is located right next to Mersault in the Cotes de Beaune, and the wines have similar flavor profiles and aging characteristics. Louis Latour's web site lists 1994 and 1995 as the most mature Auxey for current drinking.
The 1995 is a medium deep gold, and it has distinct scents of lime and hazelnuts, similar to those you might get from a good Mersault. It has freshness and the elegance of white Burgundy and is somewhat rich but lacks the creamy texture and the complexity that I remember from more expensive Mersault wines.
Not all wine shops--even large stores such as Sam's in Chicago--offer the full range of Louis Latour wines, and that's a shame. Wines from not-so-prominent appellations such as Auxey Duresses, Pernand-Vergelesses (poor man's Corton), Saint Aubin (poor man's Puligny Montrachet) and Saint Romain are moderately priced ($15 to $20) but offer good quality and a way of appreciating the versatility and range of Chardonnay wines from the Burgundy region of France.
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