As you have probably discovered, I am a sucker for Old Vines and traditionally made wines. And this wine has the right story: vines averaging 60 years of age, some more than 100 years from an area that is being threatened by new vineyards devoted to more profitable commercial wines. A young New York city chef loves the wine so much she has a glass every day while planning her menus. When she goes to Spain, she meets the winemaker and they form a mother-daughter type bond, cooking together and sharing ideas about food and wine. I fell in love with this wine, and its story, before I bought it. Now, I'm thinking, the story is only half true.
The color is very deep and bluish for Grenache. Looks like a product of barriques (small French oak barrels). At first, I get the funkiness of old vines but this blows away quickly. Blue plums, spice box, black pepper. But again not like the traditionally made Grenache wines of the Southern Rhone that I love so much. Thick and rich on the palate--almost like a Vintage Character Port but without the sweetness. Hmmmm.
A Google search reveals that, yes, the wine has been aged in French oak barriques and left five months on its lees--a process more commonly used for white than for red wines. Other red wines with this leesy quality are Monserrans Garnacha and St. Hallett's Barossa Valley Gamekeeper's Red. That's what produces the thick, raisiny palate feel. Although it's made from old vines, this wine comes with a few new tricks.
Friday, January 31, 2014
Vietti Tre Vigne Barbera d'Asti, 2010
As a top-notch Barbera d'Asti, this is a good wine to try beside the Franco Serra Barbaresco (below). Barbera has a similar profile to Nebbiolo--cherries, flowers and a hint of licorice. Both Barbera and Nebbiolo are high acid, but Barbera has very little tannin and the fruit is right up front from the beginning.
Even darker in color compared to the Barbaresco. And the smells and flavors are even more striking, although not as complex. Not a simple wine, though. Reminds me a lot of a Pinot Noir from the foggy North Coast of California. The dryness that became apparent with the Barbaresco late in the meal never appears with this Barbera. But the flavors never approach the complexity of that wine.
The Tre Vigne sells for $10 a glass at Zazio's, $14.99 a bottle at Bacchus. It too is an excellent value.
Even darker in color compared to the Barbaresco. And the smells and flavors are even more striking, although not as complex. Not a simple wine, though. Reminds me a lot of a Pinot Noir from the foggy North Coast of California. The dryness that became apparent with the Barbaresco late in the meal never appears with this Barbera. But the flavors never approach the complexity of that wine.
The Tre Vigne sells for $10 a glass at Zazio's, $14.99 a bottle at Bacchus. It too is an excellent value.
Franco Serra Barbaresco, 2008
By the glass, this is rather expensive--$14--at Zazio's Italian Restaurant in Kalamazoo. But I rarely find a Barbaresco as a wine-by-the-glass. And I wanted a chance to try this Franco Serra because it is available right now for $23 at Bacchus Wine and Spirits on Oakland Boulevard. One of the Nebbiolo aristocrats of Italian wine, Barbaresco usually sells for $30 and up. My judgment is that this wine is a good value, whether you buy it by the glass at Zazio's or by the bottle at Bacchus.
Deep, dark robe. Even when young, Nebbiolo often has some orange tones. Deep scents of dark cherries, licorice and hints of flowers--again very Nebbiolo. Warm, luxurious mouth feel with well defined flavors. Nothing overstated but everything in place for graceful aging. Perfect with braised short ribs and opens up over the course of the meal. Tannins don't become noticeable until late in the meal. As I've heard so many times from guests drinking Barolo or Barbaresco for the first time: this wine is very dry. Yes, it's dry, but it's certainly not flat nor devoid of fruit. A dryness that just makes you want another glass.
Deep, dark robe. Even when young, Nebbiolo often has some orange tones. Deep scents of dark cherries, licorice and hints of flowers--again very Nebbiolo. Warm, luxurious mouth feel with well defined flavors. Nothing overstated but everything in place for graceful aging. Perfect with braised short ribs and opens up over the course of the meal. Tannins don't become noticeable until late in the meal. As I've heard so many times from guests drinking Barolo or Barbaresco for the first time: this wine is very dry. Yes, it's dry, but it's certainly not flat nor devoid of fruit. A dryness that just makes you want another glass.
Monday, January 27, 2014
Cameron-Hughes Lot 324 Atlas Peak (Napa Valley) Chardonnay, 2010
Cameron-Hughes is a California-based negociant. Since the wine comes from Atlas Peak (a decidedly high-rent area), this wine undoubtedly represents excess production from a premium label that is reluctant to mark down its own wines. At World Market right now, it is being sold for $11.99, a true bargain.
Medium yellow. Very forward and appealing. Nutmeg, butter, flowers. The label mentions orange blossom, and, yes, I agree. The buttery flavors are perfect with crab cakes. Yum. But it's not the "big, buttery" quality that has been applied to many highly oaked New World Chardonnay. Medium to light body and lemon curd acidity
Medium yellow. Very forward and appealing. Nutmeg, butter, flowers. The label mentions orange blossom, and, yes, I agree. The buttery flavors are perfect with crab cakes. Yum. But it's not the "big, buttery" quality that has been applied to many highly oaked New World Chardonnay. Medium to light body and lemon curd acidity
Domaine de la Tourade Vacqueyras, 2008
I've enjoyed the Tourade Gigondas; it's one of my favorites. This is my first try of a Tourade Vacqueyras.
Medium color, light for Vacqueyras but that may be related to the 2008 vintage which was a bit light and early maturing. Southern Rhone pepperiness is apparent from the first sniff, but it's relatively elegant and blends nicely with red plums, berries and garrigue. Understated but intense. There is more of the same on the palate. Medium bodied, without the aggressive black licorice that comes across in many Vacqueyras wines. Not at all rustic. In fact, it's almost Pinot-like with peppery/berry flavors that tease and linger. I approve and will come back for more Tourade Vacqueyras when the price is right.
Medium color, light for Vacqueyras but that may be related to the 2008 vintage which was a bit light and early maturing. Southern Rhone pepperiness is apparent from the first sniff, but it's relatively elegant and blends nicely with red plums, berries and garrigue. Understated but intense. There is more of the same on the palate. Medium bodied, without the aggressive black licorice that comes across in many Vacqueyras wines. Not at all rustic. In fact, it's almost Pinot-like with peppery/berry flavors that tease and linger. I approve and will come back for more Tourade Vacqueyras when the price is right.
Londer Vineyards Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2008
A blurb near the masthead of the PinotFile newsletter proclaims that "the line between Pinot Noir and sex is blurred." I could not agree more, and this wine provides ample proof.
The smoky smells and flavors that resulted from the 2008 forest fires near the Anderson Valley are becoming more prominent all the time. But the sexy Pinot qualities are enough to compensate. Satiny, silky texture--so delicate and lovely, yet so powerful. Very cherry, rich and deep. And, of course, smoke. But it adds some structure and blends with the slightly bitter cranberry and pepper edge.
PinotFile, incidentally, is a very good newsletter, written and produced by the "Prince of Pinot" a retired ophthalmologist who, like Dr. Londer (also a retired ophthalmologist), clearly loves Pinot Noir. He sacrifices himself by drinking a lot of Pinot Noir every month and writing about them. I have found the information and reviews to be very reliable. And the newsletter is free! (Wish the Pinots were.)
Unfortunately, the Londers have given up producing Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs so they can spend more of their retirement lives with their children and grandchildren. A good idea for them, a bad idea for Pinotphiles.
The smoky smells and flavors that resulted from the 2008 forest fires near the Anderson Valley are becoming more prominent all the time. But the sexy Pinot qualities are enough to compensate. Satiny, silky texture--so delicate and lovely, yet so powerful. Very cherry, rich and deep. And, of course, smoke. But it adds some structure and blends with the slightly bitter cranberry and pepper edge.
PinotFile, incidentally, is a very good newsletter, written and produced by the "Prince of Pinot" a retired ophthalmologist who, like Dr. Londer (also a retired ophthalmologist), clearly loves Pinot Noir. He sacrifices himself by drinking a lot of Pinot Noir every month and writing about them. I have found the information and reviews to be very reliable. And the newsletter is free! (Wish the Pinots were.)
Unfortunately, the Londers have given up producing Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs so they can spend more of their retirement lives with their children and grandchildren. A good idea for them, a bad idea for Pinotphiles.
Paul Jaboulet Domaine de Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, 1994
The last bottle of this I opened a few weeks ago was muted and not very interesting. I suspected something was wrong--probably corked but at a lower than usual level. This bottle confirmed my suspicions about the first bottle and strengthened my confidence in Domaine de Thalabert.
The color has lightened a bit, and the bouquet is initially somewhat understated. With aeration, though, it comes forth nicely with scents of currants, red and black, and a hint of cassis. On the palate, there is the usual Thalabert charm and complexity. Red and black fruits, black olives and herbs. Rich mid-palate and a long ripe finish. Reverberates as only a Thalabert can.
This doesn't measure up to the excellent Thalaberts produced in the 1980s, most of which are still drinking well. But it's reached the magic age of 20 years and, for my taste, is one of the best Syrah wines on the market.
The color has lightened a bit, and the bouquet is initially somewhat understated. With aeration, though, it comes forth nicely with scents of currants, red and black, and a hint of cassis. On the palate, there is the usual Thalabert charm and complexity. Red and black fruits, black olives and herbs. Rich mid-palate and a long ripe finish. Reverberates as only a Thalabert can.
This doesn't measure up to the excellent Thalaberts produced in the 1980s, most of which are still drinking well. But it's reached the magic age of 20 years and, for my taste, is one of the best Syrah wines on the market.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)
