Franco Serra Barbaresco, 2008

By the glass, this is rather expensive--$14--at Zazio's Italian Restaurant in Kalamazoo. But I rarely find a Barbaresco as a wine-by-the-glass. And I wanted a chance to try this Franco Serra because it is available right now for $23 at Bacchus Wine and Spirits on Oakland Boulevard. One of the Nebbiolo aristocrats of Italian wine, Barbaresco usually sells for $30 and up. My judgment is that this wine is a good value, whether you buy it by the glass at Zazio's or by the bottle at Bacchus.

Deep, dark robe. Even when young, Nebbiolo often has some orange tones. Deep scents of dark cherries, licorice and hints of flowers--again very Nebbiolo. Warm, luxurious mouth feel with well defined flavors. Nothing overstated but everything in place for graceful aging. Perfect with braised short ribs and opens up over the course of the meal. Tannins don't become noticeable until late in the meal. As I've heard so many times from guests drinking Barolo or Barbaresco for the first time: this wine is very dry. Yes, it's dry, but it's certainly not flat nor devoid of fruit. A dryness that just makes you want another glass.

Cameron-Hughes Lot 324 Atlas Peak (Napa Valley) Chardonnay, 2010

Cameron-Hughes is a California-based negociant. Since the wine comes from Atlas Peak (a decidedly high-rent area), this wine undoubtedly represents excess production from a premium label that is reluctant to mark down its own wines. At World Market right now, it is being sold for $11.99, a true bargain.

Medium yellow. Very forward and appealing. Nutmeg, butter, flowers. The label mentions orange blossom, and, yes, I agree. The buttery flavors are perfect with crab cakes. Yum. But it's not the "big, buttery" quality that has been applied to many highly oaked New World Chardonnay. Medium to light body and lemon curd acidity

Domaine de la Tourade Vacqueyras, 2008

I've enjoyed the Tourade Gigondas; it's one of my favorites. This is my first try of a Tourade Vacqueyras.

Medium color, light for Vacqueyras but that may be related to the 2008 vintage which was a bit light and early maturing. Southern Rhone pepperiness is apparent from the first sniff, but it's relatively elegant and blends nicely with red plums, berries and garrigue. Understated but intense. There is more of the same on the palate. Medium bodied, without the aggressive black licorice that comes across in many Vacqueyras wines. Not at all rustic. In fact, it's almost Pinot-like with peppery/berry flavors that tease and linger. I approve and will come back for more Tourade Vacqueyras when the price is right.

Londer Vineyards Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2008

A blurb near the masthead of the PinotFile newsletter proclaims that "the line between Pinot Noir and sex is blurred." I could not agree more, and this wine provides ample proof.

The smoky smells and flavors that resulted from the 2008 forest fires near the Anderson Valley are becoming more prominent all the time. But the sexy Pinot qualities are enough to compensate. Satiny, silky texture--so delicate and lovely, yet so powerful. Very cherry, rich and deep. And, of course, smoke. But it adds some structure and blends with the slightly bitter cranberry and pepper edge.

PinotFile, incidentally, is a very good newsletter, written and produced by the "Prince of Pinot" a retired ophthalmologist who, like Dr. Londer (also a retired ophthalmologist), clearly loves Pinot Noir. He sacrifices himself by drinking a lot of Pinot Noir every month and writing about them. I have found the information and reviews to be very reliable. And the newsletter is free! (Wish the Pinots were.)

Unfortunately, the Londers have given up producing Anderson Valley Pinot Noirs so they can spend more of their retirement lives with their children and grandchildren. A good idea for them, a bad idea for Pinotphiles.

Paul Jaboulet Domaine de Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, 1994

The last bottle of this I opened a few weeks ago was muted and not very interesting. I suspected something was wrong--probably corked but at a lower than usual level. This bottle confirmed my suspicions about the first bottle and strengthened my confidence in Domaine de Thalabert.

The color has lightened a bit, and the bouquet is initially somewhat understated. With aeration, though, it comes forth nicely with scents of currants, red and black, and a hint of cassis. On the palate, there is the usual Thalabert charm and complexity. Red and black fruits, black olives and herbs. Rich mid-palate and a long ripe finish. Reverberates as only a Thalabert can.

This doesn't measure up to the excellent Thalaberts produced in the 1980s, most of which are still drinking well. But it's reached the magic age of 20 years and, for my taste, is one of the best Syrah wines on the market.

Domaine Charvin a Cote VDP Principaute d'Orange, 2006

Charvin Chateauneufs du Pape are very popular these days among Southern Rhone enthusiasts. They are also somewhat pricey, and, as a result, I haven't tried one. This Vin de Pays gave me an affordable look at the Charvin style. And I'm impressed.

Very dark. Black fruits dominate.Spicy and peppery but not your typical Southern Rhone at all. Has some New World qualities and a good bit of Merlot in the blend. Nothing green or mean about this Merlot, though. Dark, ripe and full bodied. No matter what your wine biases might be, there is much for your to like in this wine.

Domaine du Pesquier Gigondas, 1998

My first sniff of this 1998 Gigondas told me it was over the hill. I smelled stale, seemingly oxidized fruit. Luckily, I didn't give up on it because it blossomed over the next several nights into a very good Gigondas.

Deep and dark with lots of crusty sediment. The sediment, I discovered, was giving it its stale, funky odors but these were easily deleted with careful pouring and use of the Rabbit aerator. Powerful, ripe Gigondas flavors. A somewhat old fashioned style of Gigondas, with rustic tannins and no new oak qualities. That's probably why I like it some much.