Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes-Hermitrage Domaine de Thalabert, 1983

When I first opened this bottle, the aromas and flavors seemed a bit muted, and I assumed that time was beginning to catch up to this 39-year-old Crozes-Hermitage. Given a couple of hours of aeration and comparison to a much younger Syrah (1998 Coriole McLarenv Vale Shiraz from Australia) on the table, Domaine Thalabert once again demonstrated its seemingly ageless charm.

Much lighter than its Australian counterpart, of course. Brickish red but bright and clear. Two hours after the bottle was opened, the Northern Rhone scents begin to develop and grow. Red as well as black fruits, leather, balsamic. Notably acidic compared to the Australian Shiraz, and that is a plus for me. Black olives, cured meats, black pepper. Flavors get bigger and more complex with every sip. Lives up to my Thalabert expectations.