Jean Descombes Morgon, 2005

When this wine first hit the shelves, it was gloriously fruity, a summer pudding of ripe berries. Seven or eight years later, fruit is still the dominant feature--strawberries and kirsch. It's still a nice wine but much less intense and bright. Some would write this off as a wine past its prime. Based on my experience with past vintages, I am confident there are greater pleasures to come. The 1995, 1998 and 2002 Jean Descombes I have had in the past year have developed subtle charms and tertiary complexities that may or may not be in store for this 2005. With several bottles left, I'm willing to take the chance.