Domaine Loew Tokay Pinot Gris Cormier, 2004

This Alsace Pinot Gris is sweeter and fuller than most of us expect from a dry white table wine. But it has excellent acidity and shines with Alsace smells and flavors. It's too sweet for my wife, so she is drinking an Italian Pinot Grigio (MezzaCorona) while I enjoy this mature beauty. Same grape, totally different experiences.

The color is a deep gold compared to the Pinot Grigio. The wine is not overly mature, at least for my taste, but it has a fully developed bouquet. Spice, honey, apples. On the palate, it's full bodied with a very appealing fruit sweetness. Tingly, crystallized finish. I had this with whitefish Grenoble, and it was a bit rich for the dish; it would be better with a good soft Brie cheese.

I would prefer this wine (and most Alsace wines) to be a bit drier, but I have nothing against a bit of fruit sweetness when the wine is this good.