Saturday, January 5, 2013

Loimer Lois Kamptal Gruner Veltliner Trocken, 2009

The label and closure for this Austrian Gruner Veltliner is so green that it's hard not to think green when you smell or drink it. And green it is, although a very pleasant shade, fresh, understated and lovely like a sprig of mint on a gin and tonic. I've read descriptions of Gruner that mention wax beans, lima beans and legumes as part of the aroma/flavor profile, and I never can find any of these. White pepper? Yes, and a touch of green apple and lime. Descriptors are hard for me to come up with, but the wine is fresh, complex and lovely.

Lois is not named after a woman of that name but rather refers to loess, wind-borne soil that covers this area of lower Austria. Lois is not a Gruner to put away but I always find nuances emerging after an hour or so at the table. Very good with vegetable-oriented meals.

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