Jean Descombes Morgon, 2005

Compared to older vintages of Jean Descombes (1995, 2000, 2002) I've been drinking recently, this wine seems a bit one-dimensional. It has nice crushed raspberry fruit but the early blush that was so enjoyable in 1996 or 1997 has faded, and it has not yet been replaced by the complexities of a mature Morgon. The wine is ripe and soft and easy to enjoy. And, as an accompaniment to spicy Asian fusion food, it's perfect. But compared to the Domaine Diochon I had last week and older Jean Descombes Morgons I've had over the past year, it lacks dimension.