Les Trois Couronnes Cotes du Rhone, 2007

Some bottles of Les Trois Couronnes have exhibited the ripe Grenache qualities typical of the warm 2007 vintage. This and other bottles I have opened show a much more stern, almost tart quality as if at least some of the grapes were picked slightly unripe. The first impression I get is garrigue--spicy, briary Provencal herbs--a quality that is lacking in many overly ripe Southern Rhones from 2007. Also deep, deep cherry aromas and flavors. Skin tannins provide plenty of structure, almost too much. I have found considerable bottle variation, but no duds, from Les Trois Couronnes Cotes du Rhone, still widely available for about $7 a bo ttle.