Mittnacht-Klack Rosacker Riesling, 1993

Rosacker vineyard lies just outside the medieval wall of the tiny village of Riquewihr in Alsace. When we visited Riquewihr in the mid-1990s, I passed along the end of the vineyard on my morning run each day, smelling the roses neatly planted at the end of each row of Riesling or Gewurztraminer. This 17-year-old Riesling, from a 375 milliliter bottle, captures all the charm and beauty of Rosacker, Riquewihr and Alsace.

The color is deep gold, and the bouquet is classic Alsace Riesling--petrol, dried apricots and flowers, rich and compact. There is also a Gewurz-like spice that is quite pleasant. On the palate, age has made this wine richer and more viscous in texture, but there is good acid to keep the flavors in focus. It clings to the palate, leaving a lovely after glow. Although not at all sweet, this wine is rich and complex enough to finish off a meal. Excellent.