Sunday, March 30, 2008

Willm Alsace Pinot Gris Cuvee Emile Willm, 1983

It's my birthday today. I've never had a 1939 bottle, but anniversary wines don't mean much to me. What's important as I get a year older is to drink a few mature--or even overly mature--wines to see what aging is all about. I'll be having a 1978 Chante Perdrix Chateauneuf du Pape later today, but in preparation for the occasion I had the 1982 Cote Rotie Wednesday (only slightly over mature) and, last night, this beautiful 1983 Willm Alsace Pinot Gris. It was actually a wine that I had no intention of keeping this long; it just got overlooked in the cellar.

It's still a beautiful deep gold color with good clarity and brilliance. I expected some stink or oxidation from the nose of a white wine this old, but in reality it smelled amazingly fresh and lively. I smelled apricots (dried and fresh) and flowers;others at the table picked up the flowers along with ripe apples and a Riesling-like petrol. I too got a very Riesling-like impression along with the smoky, stone fruit qualities of good Pinot Gris. On the palate, it was rich and concentrated--although still restrained and elegant. On the finish, it opened into a peacock's tail of fruit and flower flavors. All very precisely focused.

If that's what age is all about in wine and life, I'm ready for more.

2 comments:

  1. Happy Birthday!

    Loved your last line best. Tying age and wine together - love it.

    P.S. Drinking an '06 Estancia (couldn't find the '05). Don't bother. Eww!

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  2. Thanks, 'Merely." As you can see above, the Chante Perdrix met my expectations...and then some.

    Old wines are great for special occasions, but even if I could afford to drink them every night, I would still prefer $8 to $10 gems like Grand Prieur, La Vieille Ferme, Vina Borgia and Yecla Castana.

    Actually, the Chante Perdrix cost $8.95 when I bought it in 1980.

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