Bright ruby with orangeish tones typical of Nebbiolo. Tar and roses, indeed! Very aromatic and very Nebbiolo. Dark cherries, rich and concentrated. Substantial skin tannins on the mid-palate provide flavor as well as structure. Plenty of acidity for balance. And then the dark cherry finish, which gets more sumptuous, concentrated and complex with every sip.
Friday, December 29, 2023
Valdinera Nebbiolo d'Alba Sontuoso, 2011
Wednesday, December 27, 2023
Benton Lane Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, 2022
Deep and dark red. Has all the concentrated smells and flavors that I associate with Willamette Valley Pinot: cherries, pepper and spice. Sweet French oak balanced with orange zest acidity. Lots of complexity on the finish. I have had some excellent Oregon Pinots over the past several months, and this measures up nicely for quality and value.
Tuesday, December 26, 2023
Graham's 10-Year-Old Tawny Port
Figs, nuts and eucalyptus honey. Rich and mellow with a pleasant bite on the finish.
Chateau Poujeaux Moulis-en-Medoc (Bordeaux), 1985
Medium garnet, lighter than the 1985 Sociando Mallet beside it at the table. Smells and flavors, though, are much brighter and fresher. Red as well as black fruits plus some coffee, pencil shavings and spice. Ripe tannins and tangy acidity. Sparkling complexity on the long finish. The highlight of the evening and a good match for beef tenderloin with a mushroom wine reduction sauce.
Chateau Sociando Mallet Haut Medoc (Bordeaux), 1985
The color has some bricking but is darker than the 1985 Poujeaux. Smells are a bit muted, but no one at the table found any hint of cork taint. Some pleasant red and black fruit flavors but also a bit muted and dry. I suspect this may have cork taint but slight enough that it does not show up in the damp cardboard smells usually associated with TCA.
Chateau Greysac Medoc (Bordeaux), 2005
Good deep Cabernet color. Well preserved fruit. Currants, berries, spice. More black than red fruits. Acid, tannin, fruit, oak in good balance. A bit of sediment on the last pour. Holding well with no sign of decline. This wine is in this week's WineBid auction with a reserve of $25.
Sunday, December 24, 2023
Marchesi di Barolo Barolo, 1999
Medium ruby with orangish tones typical of Nebbiolo. Red cherries, roses and licorice, as you might expect. Both red and black fruits. Acidity that makes it dance across the palate.
Ca del Baio Pianrosa Barbaresco, 2008
More red fruit acidity in this wine compared to Perbacco. Sleeker on the mid-palate but still plenty of rich cherry fruit. The strength and structure of a Barolo; yet, it's much more accessible than the last bottle I had a few years ago. Very good but may not have reached its peak.
Vietti Nebbiolo Perbacco, 2009
Vietti's Perbacco is generally recognized as one of, in not the, best generic Nebbiolo--a baby Barolo. Tonight, with a hearty beef stew, it served as the introduction to a very good Barbaresco and a very good Barolo. And it measured up quite.
After an hour or two of aeration, Perbacco is open and ready for business. Red berry fruit, rose petal and menthol. Medium bodied with lovely fruit, perfectly balanced between ripe tannins and fresh acidity.
Saturday, December 23, 2023
Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, 1995
Medium ruby, brighter and deeper than the Offerus even though it is three years older. Intense red and black fruits, leather and spice. Prominent acidity and the hallmark Thalabert finish that keeps the tongue tingling for minutes. This 1995 is not as good as others in the series, notably the 1983, 1990, 1988, 1985. But it is Thalabert, and I love it.
J.L. Chave Selection St. Joseph Offerus, 1998
Medium deep garnet/ruby. The color is changing, but the wine is just as enticing as it was when I first tasted it 20-some years ago. Compared to the Spanish and Australian Syrah wines beside it on the table, it stands out for its crisp red berry berry acidity that comes across in the bouquet as well as the flavors. Black fruits and cassis too. A wine that just keeps getting better with every sip. 1998 was one of the early years for Offerus and it was available in my market for about $20. The price has gone up a bit since then, but is still a bargain.
Brothers in Arms Langhorne Creek Shiraz, 2001
Medium deep color, bricking a bit. Very expressive bouquet of red and black fruit, eucaplyptus and spice. Intense flavors of ripe berries, tobacco and menthol with good acidity. Drinking beautifully now and should hold or get better over the next few years.
Marques de Grinon Dominio du Valdepusa Caliza, 2010
Very dark, opaque. Quite a bit of sediment; You can tease some lovely floral aromatics from this wine, but on the palate it's dense and powerful. Ripe black and purple fruits and spices on an earthy, mineral background. The wine is significantly better, in my opinion, because of the Petit Verdot in the blend.
Couloir Roma's Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2007
Medium light ruby, slightly lighter than the Sheldon. Lilting scents from the time the cork is popped. More aromatic than the Sheldon. Also sweeter than the Sheldon with less prominent tannins. It is three years older, of course. Slightly tart red berries, lovely acidity and a finish that just doesn't stop. Intense, delicate, powerful. Roma's V, I love you!
Friday, December 22, 2023
Sheldon Roma's Vineyard Anderson Valley Pinot Noir, 2010
Medium light garnet, lighter around the rim. Not extremely aromatic compared to the Couloir Roma's Vineyard Pinot beside it at the table. Flavors though are intense, complex and delicious. Sour cherries and cranberries. Tannins on the mid-palate are ripe and lovely with plenty of intense acidity to balance.
Wednesday, December 20, 2023
WillaKenzie Estate Estate (Yamhill-Carlton) Chardonnay, 2016
The yellow gold color has darkened a bit but is bright and clear. Ripe apple, blood orange and orange zest on the nose. Round and rich in the mouth but with crisp acidity. Sweet and savory flavors on the mid-palate and finish. Perfect right now.
Sunday, December 17, 2023
Vinha da Coutada Velha Alentejano Red Blend, 2020
Purplish red, opaque. Very aromatic with a lush mouth feel. Blackberries, blue plums and cassis but also red berries and cherries. The contrast of red and black fruits adds some delightful tension. I detect a spicy, herbal component on the finish that is not really typical of any of the grapes used in the blend. It's an attractive trait, and I can see it becoming ever more prominent as the wine ages.
I bought this wine last summer, intending to try it to see if I should buy more. Unfortunately, I don't think it is still on the shelves of my local Costco.
Saturday, December 16, 2023
Phelps Creek Columbia Gorge Chardonnay, 2017
Medium deep yellow. Tropical fruit at first but more apple and pear flavors as the wine warms and aerates. Minerals and spice. Medium acidity. Drinking beautifully now, but I don't think this is a 10-year Chardonnay.
Thursday, December 14, 2023
Terramata Barbera d'Alba, 2017
Bright, medium deep ruby/violet. Enticing scents and flavors of cherries, sweet and sour, vanilla and black pepper. Bright and lively fruit. Adds another dimernsion to the meal. From my memory, this 2017 is substantially better tonight than it was when I last had it on February 22 of this year.
Tuesday, December 12, 2023
Pike Road Willamrette Valley Pinot Noir, 2022
Dark ruby violet color. Dark cherries, black currants, flowers. Ripe fruit and oak. A touch of blood orange zest on the lush finish. This wine would not embarrass itself in a lineup of single vineyard Oregon Pinots selling for $50 and up.
Monday, December 11, 2023
Amalie Robert Heirloom Cameo Chardonnay, 2011
Light yellow, bright and youthful despite its age. Aromas of lime, pineapple, spice and white flowers. A rich wine but oh so elegant. Silky mouthfeel and well delineated flavors of fruit, spice, minerals and toast. Long finish is punctuated by a distinct note of ripe apple.
On the second night, after being re-corked, this wine is even better..;and more what I expected. The color is deeper as a result of more exposure to air and the smells and flavors are also deeper and richer. Very aromatic: flowers, tropical fruit, honeysuckle and spice. Full on the mid-palate with a slight leesy effect. Again, the distinct note of ripe apple on the finish
Saturday, December 9, 2023
Domaine Sainte-Anne Cotes du Rhones Villages Saint Gervais, 2005
Bright crimson, surprisingly deep for an 18-year-old wine. Bright cherries, red berries, violets, cassis. Round structure, well balanced for fruit, acid, tannin. Grainy tannins at first but with an hour of aeration, they seem to fade away, leaving full access to the lovely red berry flavors. Lots of spicy Mourvedre nuances on the long finish. I love it.
Thursday, December 7, 2023
Famille Perrin Ventoux, 2020
Bright medium dark crimson. Primary grapes for this wine are Carignan and Cinsult, but it still comes across to me as a very good Grenache-oriented wine. Fresh blueberries and strawberries plus fruit spice from the Carignan and Cinsault. Juicy and ripe with acidity that keeps me coming back for sip after sip. As an accompaniment to penne pasta with a rich tomato sauce, this is perfect.
Tuesday, December 5, 2023
Franco Serra Barbera d'Alba, 2018
Medium dark ruby, bright and clear. Fresh cherrry-oriented aromas typical of Barbera. Has good Barbera acidity but more tannic structure than the Fontanafredda Barbera I had last night. Delicious fruit tannins with the grip and spice of red and black raspberries
Friday, December 1, 2023
Domaine du Grand Tinel Chateauneuf du Pape, 1995
Herb-crusted rack of lamb, in my opinion, requires a good old-fashioned Chateauneuf du Pape. And this 1995 Grand Tinel is about as classic as it gets.
Saturday, November 25, 2023
Domaine du Pegau Cuvee Reservee Chateauneuf du Pape, 1989
Dark brickish color. Lots of sediment at bottom of bottle. Powerful, savory bouquet of Provencal herbs, dark fruit, leather and Chateauneuf earth. A broad shouldered wine, full bodied and ripe on the mid-palate. Fresh and dried fruit, darker than I would expect from a wine that is 80 to 85% Grenache. Tastes sweet but has the acid to keep it fresh and lively. Improves with about an hour of airing and then holds steadily through the meal. It was a perfect match for herb-crusted rack of lamb.
Thursday, November 23, 2023
Dominio IV Mulberry Street Vitae Springs Pinot Noir, 2011
A small pour reveals a brickish color. In the glass, it's a medium garnet with good brilliance. Enticing scents and flavors of strawberries, rose petals, orange zest and pepper. Very appealing. The wine has a delicate profile that is not at all like Malcolm but might be appealing to him as a young adult. Will it last that long? I am not sure. The tannin/acid balance is good now and might stay that way for another three or four years. Nine might be pushing it.
Wednesday, November 22, 2023
Pelissero Nebbiolo Langhe, 2012
Medium light color. Aromas seem muted when the cork is popped. With an hour and a half of aeration, they begin to emerge--subtle and pretty scents of flowers and fresh fruit. Flavors are also subtle rather than bold. Wild strawberries, cranberries, white pepper, ripe tannins. Understated and lovely. I find it hard to quit sniffing and sipping this wine but suspect that it will be even better with another year or two in the cellar.
Sunday, November 19, 2023
Tenuta Tamburnin la 3 Seuri Freisa d'Asti, 2015'
Bright ruby. Enticing aromas of rose petals, bing cherries, cinnamon and cloves. Ripe cherry flavors with a touch of black licorice. Mouth tingling acidity and enough tannin to add flavor intensity that lingers and pleases. Ligher and more approachable than Barolo or Barbaresco but thoroughly enjoyable..
Wednesday, November 15, 2023
Carpe Diem Anderson Valley Chardonnay, 2019
Brilliant yellow. Green apples, lemon curd, lemon zest and a hint of almonds. Buttered brioche on the tongue. Rich fruit, elegant wine. Savory notes emerge as the wine warms in the glass. In many ways, this is like drinking a still version of a Blanc de Blanc. I love it.
Tuesday, November 14, 2023
Domaine de l"Espigouette Gigondas, 2012
Deep, dark color. And dark is the number one adjective that comes to mind as I taste this wine. The bouquet has the lifted notes of menthol and garrigue that are typical of Gigondas. But there is a strong black strap molasses quality on the palate that I associate more with Vacqueyras than Gigondas. No worry, the two appellations are very close to each other. Very big, very powerful but under it all I find charming blueberry, strawberry fruit that is very similar to that in the 3 Messes Basses Ventoux beside it at the table. That is a big compliment to the Ventoux (which sells for about a third the cost of the l'Espigouette) but no insult to the Gigondas.
Sunday, November 12, 2023
Les Vignerons de Mont Ventoux Cuvee des 3 Messes Basses Ventoux, 2019
I have great nostalgia for the Southern Rhones of yesteryear--extravagant, traditionally made and inexpensive. And this wine from the cooperative at Mont Ventoux is the best I know for satisfying my thirst. 60% Grenache/20% Syrah/20% Carignan.
Bright ruby/violet. Red cherries, garrigue on the nose; bright red fruit and black pepper on rhe palate. Fruit seems deeper and more defined than the 2018 vintage I had last year. Also slightly more tannic on the finish. Just right. I want more.
Thursday, November 9, 2023
Ribbon Ridge Vineyard Willamette Valley Ribbon Ridge Pinot Noir, 2017
Medium deep garnet, dark for Pinot but part of the Ribbon Ridge profile--induced by soil and micro climate rather than over-extraction and oak. The aromas at age six are captivating: red raspberries, dark cherries, spring flowers. Deep flavors that eventually trend toward strawberry plus orange zest and peppery spice. Treads lightly on the tongue with excellent fruit/acid balance. Some grippy tannins on the finish, suggesting that this lovely wine is going to get even better over the next five years or so.
Whereas most Beaux Freres wines sell for $100 plus, this Ribbon Ridge retails for $38 to $40. I bought mine for $17.99 two years ago from Wines Till Sold Out.
Wednesday, November 8, 2023
Domaine des Baumard Les Caleches, 2017
Monday, November 6, 2023
Edna Road 500 Ranch Edna Valley Chardonnay, 2019
Bright lemon yellow. Enticing bouquet, subtle floral/fruit scents. On the tongue, I get apples, pears, butter, brioche, subtle oak. Silky texture. Elegant mouth feel. Long finish.
Friday, November 3, 2023
Chateau la Louviere Pessac Leognan Blanc, 1983
Deep gold color. The bouquet is mature but with no noticeable signs of oxidation. Apples, pears, honey and lime. I was thirsty when I pulled the cork, and the first sip seemed to be thirst quenching--a good sign. The wine clearly has the acidity needed to keep it.alive. And age has given it complexity and interest. I am siure this wine would have been better a decade ago, but it is holding up well at age 40.
Wednesday, November 1, 2023
Penfolds Koonunga Hill South Australia Shiraz Cabernet, 2019
Bright ruby, deep and dark. I don'r detect any purple at this time. Demonstrative nose of black fruits--blackberries and currants. Plump body (14.5%) with a rich mid-palate. I always get a heavy dose of dark chocolate in Shiraz Cabernet wines, and this wine has it in spades, along with a touch of mint. Substantial tannic grip; that is the style, but ripe fruit and chocolate peek through and carry over into the finish, which is beginning to show some secondary traits. I plan to drink this wine early, but it should age well over the next few years.
I paid $12 for this 2019, but my local Costco has the 2020 vintage for $7.89--an excellent value. I bought a bottle today and will be going back for more. Who doesn't like wines that are cheap and good?
Monday, October 30, 2023
The Wines and Vineyards of Willamette Valley, Oregon
When it comes to wine, I am a terroirist. I love to explore the ways that climate, soil and vineyard affect the distinctive aromas and flavors that end up in my glass. Last week, Donna and I joined our son, Duncan, and daughter-in-law, Lisa, on a trip to the Willamette Valley of Oregon--an ideal place to learn terroir, which is more intricate and complex than I imagined.
Over the past several decades, a number of French and American wine enthusiasts have been attracted to Willamette Valley because they believe it is a special place to grow and produce fine Pinot Noir. The cool maritime climate gives the grapes the acidity they need, and the mineral-rich soil contributes to an array of unique smells and flavors. It rains a lot in Oregon, but the rain is well timed for the grape grower--lots of rain in the Spring when the vines need it followed by a Summer that is often bone dry and a rainy fall that comes after the grapes are already harvested. In addition, the soils provide good drainage.
One of my favorite wineries, WillaKenzie Estate, advertises itself as an estate where "Place matters: Our terroir is our inspiration." The name, WillaKenzie, actually refers to the ancient soil in this part of the Chehalem hills. And the estate bottles wines from several vineyards that offer unique traits. Emery, located on the highest elevation of the estate, has the deepest topsoil and produces wines with deep flavors and fine, silky tannins. Triple Black Slopes is the steepest slope on the estate with thin topsoil and excellent drainage. The wine is known for its power, intensity and structure. We sampled these wines and others (Aliette, Kiana) during our excellent tutored tasting at WillaKenzie.
In addition to the special vineyards, WillaKenzie offers an Estate Cuvee, which is a blend of some of the best barrels from several vineyards. It is an excellent wine, as my notes from last year will confirm. It also offers a less expensive Willamette Valley bottling that includes grapes from vineyards on the nearby Dundee Hills. The soil there is Jory, highly prized for producing elegant wines with spicy, peppery traits.
Stoller Family Estate is located in the Dundee Hills. Our tasting there included an excellent 2017 Reserve Pinot Noir and two younger wines, the 2019 Helen's Pinot Noir and the 2019 Nancy's Pinot. I posted notes on these wines last week.
Another important factor in all of these wines is the Pinot Noir clone or clones used in the blend. At Willamette Valley Vineyards, we got to sample from barrels of seven different clones: Pommard, Wadenswil, Dijon 113, Dijon 114, Dijon 115, Dijon 667 and Dijon 777. In the wines we tasted there and at Colene Clemens (located in Chehalem near WillaKenzie) we could detect the dark fruit, earth and mushrooms typical of Pommard; the cherry, raspberry and rose petal of Wadenswil; the nutmeg, clove and allspice of 667; and the blackberry, cassis and licorice of 777. The Victoria, Adriane and Margot cuvees from Colene Clemens combined Pommard, Wadenswil, Dijon 667 and Dijon 777 in a captivating artisanal package.
The best part of wine, of course, is the hedonistic pleasure of smelling and tasting. But there is much, much more to the process of creating this pleasure. Last week, we had a short course that combined meteorology, geology, horticulture and more. I loved it.
Sunday, October 29, 2023
Tour Saint Bonnet Medoc, 1995
Bright ruby with brick tones moving in from the rim. Currants, cassis, lead pencil and Early Grey tea. Suave Merlot flavors; no pyrazines or green herbal tones. Lovely ripe Cab/Merlot fruit that lingers long after the glass is empty. I finished the last of my 1990s last year; this 1995 may be even better.
Saturday, October 28, 2023
Pithon-Paille Mozaik Anjou Blanc, 2017
Medium deep straw. Slightly floral with ripe pears, quince and canteloupe. Viscous and medium bodied but with an alluring measure of citric acidity. Savory finish that gets better with every sip.
Friday, October 27, 2023
Willamette Valley Vineyards Elton Eola-Amity Hills Pinot Noir, 2020
Medium ruby/garnet. Reticent at first but with swirling and aeration, opulent dark cherry-tinged aromas emerge. Also some pepper, spice and earth. Medium light body with tongue-tingling acidity. The vineyard was first planted in 1983 on Jory and Nekia soil.
Willamette Valley Vineyards Bernau Block Chardonnay, 2021
Medium deep straw. Lemon creme, lime, apple pie and buttered brioche. I usually go for lean unoaked Chardonnays, and this wine is rich and full bodied...but in a way that pleases my palate immensely. Apple, lemon zest and custard--deep and complex. Gets better with every sip.
Thursday, October 26, 2023
Willakenzie Estate Triple Black Slope Pinot Noir, 2013
This cuvee comes from the steepest slope on the estate and is characterized by "a complex array of blue and black fruits" and an intense aromatic profile. The 2013 vintage was warm, and this 2013 is nearing full maturity.
Light garnet color. Beautiful bouquet of pomegranate, cherry, spice. Broad flavors, intense and powerful. Good acidity, dances on the palate. Special wine. The winemaker recommends pairing it with rack of lamb and roasted vegetables.
Willakenzie Estate Kiana Pinot Noir, 2016
Willakenzie Estate Kiana Pinot Noir, 2018
Medium ruby. Very deep. Ripe red berries, spices and orange peel. Medium bodied, velvety, with ripe fruit on the mid-palate and a lovely finish.
Willakenzie Estate Emery Pinot Noir, 2019
Medium ruby, slightly darker than the Aliette. Also leaner and firmer on the mid-palate. Medium light bodyt with a delicate texture. Blackberries, violets, earth. Lovely finish that gets better with every sip.
Willakenzie Estate Aliette Pinot Noir, 2017
Willakenzie Estate Estate Cuve Pinot Noir, 2017
Medium light color. Intense scents and flavors of red fruit, fruit leather, flowers and citrus zest. Medium light body. Good balance of acid and tannin but needs time. Gets riper and deeper as it airs.
Wednesday, October 25, 2023
Stoller Family Estate Legacy Nancy's Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, 2019
Stoller Family Estate Legacy Helen's Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, 2019
Stoller Family Estate Reserve Dundee Hills Pinot Noir, 2017
Now in its sixth year, this 2017 Pinot Noir from Stoller is showing beautifully but with still some room to grow.