Pelassa Antaniolo Roero Riserva, 2011

Roero is a sleeper wine. It is Nebbiolo (although it rarely says that on the label) and it is grown on vineyards just across the Tanaro River from Barolo (though only insiders know that). Grapes for this wine are grown on well sited vineyards 330 meters above sea level. In other words, it is Barolo from the other side of the river, and this Antaniolo Riserva has many Barolo qualities at a fraction of the price.

Deep ruby red. Some, but by no means all, of the juice has been aged in small French oak barrels. Traditional smells and flavors, though, are eminently present. Dark cherries, strawberries, cinnamon and black licorice. As with Barolo, there is a noticeable dryness on the palate--as the winemaker put it, "dry and decisive, justly tannic and full bodied." Grips the taste buds as Nebbiolo flavors grow more intense and complex with every sip.