Roger Lassarat Pouilly Fuisse Racines, 2005

Wow! This wine lifts Chardonnay--and Pouilly Fuisse--to another level. According to the Lassarat website, the fruit comes from "three parcels of century-old vines, in the soils of Solutré and Vergissson." The estate is proud of "its complexity, the richness of its sap, its intense minerality." And well they should be. It is a special wine.

Even at 14 years of age, this bottle shows a brilliant deep yellow. No signs of advancing age. Lovely bouquet of fresh flowers and fruit, leaning toward citrus with spicy overtones. Has the sappy richness of Pouilly Fuisse, but not to the extreme. Mineral acidity. Layers of flavor and a long after taste. I am pleased.