Paul Jaboulet Domaine Thalabert Crozes-Hermitage, 1995

Crozes-Hermitage is not supposed to age as well as Hermitage, but Jaboulet's Domaine Thalabert is a notable exception. The late Gerard Jaboulet used to recommend drinking Thalabert between ages 10 and 20. Most of the Thalaberts in my cellar are well past age 20, and nearly all are going strong.

Good color with the amber tones that are expected in a wine of this age. The best Thalabert wines, for my taste, were made in the early to mid 1980s when new oak was rarely used. 1989 was a bit oaky for me, but each year after that, it seems, the winemaker has eased off on the oak influence. This 1995 has much of the traditional feel. Black and red fruits, leather, minerals. Medium bodied and cool. Flavors are low key but with plenty of depth. Has aged well and will keep well.