Sunday, May 28, 2017

Dessilani Fara Caramino Riserva, 1997

Luigi Dessilani's Fara Caramino that I tasted in the early 1980s was an enormous wine, but it was inexpensive enough that I never bothered to cellar any. At that time, it was a blend of 30 to 50% Nebbiolo plus 25 to 30% each of Vespolina and Bonarda. This 1997 is 80% Nebbiolo, and it has most of the qualities I expect in a very good Barolo or Barbaresco. At 20 years of age, it is elegant and beautiful.

The color is relatively dark for Nebbiolo but somewhat murky. From the time the cork is opened, though, the smells are captivating: dark cherry, roses, tobacco and black licorice. Very Barolo-like. More of the same on the palate. Medium weight on the mid-palate. Long, powerful finish with or without food.

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