Penfolds Bin 407 South Australia Cabernet Sauvignon, 2004

As with most of their premium wines, Penfolds makes Bin 407 Cabernet from grapes from several districts, usually including Coonawarra, Wrattenbully, Padthaway, Robe, McLaren Vale, Clare Valley and even Margaret River. The idea is to craft a wine following a distinctive style as opposed to one that reflects a particular vineyard or appellation. And the result is nearly always impressive.

Deep and dark with hints of amber forming at the rim. There is considerable sediment at the bottom of the bottle, but this wine still has a long way to go. Aromas are captivating and unmistakably Cabernet--black currants, black fruit and espresso. All of those come through in the flavors. Plump mid-palate but plenty of mouth watering acidity. Very black currant on the long finish. Archetype of a New World Cabernet.

Penfolds patterns its Bin 407 after the more expensive Bin 707--a poor man's Bin 707, if you will. But there is nothing second-rate about this wine. When I saw it offered at a distributor's close out for about $12 a bottle, I jumped quickly. I recently saw it advertised by an Australian retailer for $109 a bottle.