Friday, October 5, 2012

Matthieu de Brully Bourgogne Pinot Noir, 2005

I've heard it said that if you drink wine long enough, you'll eventually become a fan of Pinot Noir. I don't know about that. After starting with a love for Cabernet and Syrah; I've been hooked on Grenache and Mourvedre based wines from the Southern Rhone for nearly 20 years. Over the past year or two, though, particularly after a trip last Spring to the Anderson Valley of northern California, I have become more and more appreciative of what good Pinot has to offer. Matthieu de Brully's Bourgogne is from an inexpensive, low-end appellation, but 2005 is a particularly good vintage for red Burgundy. A bit acidic and tight when it was young, the wine has matured nicely.

Medium light ruby./ Sweet scents of berries and flowers. The aromas don't jump out at you; you have to pay careful attention, but that is what Pinot Noir is about. Light, lovely perfume. Now some hints of spice and earth. Gets better and better./ On the palate, there is still plenty of acidity and some dry tannins but with  swirling the fruit emerges. You have to love Pinot Noir to get your love returned. Subtle but fine. Spice and pepper on the finish with a touch of spice.

Admittedly, there are many bad Pinot Noirs on the market. It's all about the clones, where the grapes are grown and how the wine is made. And, for many red Burgundies, even those at the low end, it's important not to rush. The maturity is all.

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