There is nothing quite like wines made from the Nebbiolo grape--Barolo, Barbaresco, Gattinara, Spanna. In the early 1980s when I was first getting interested in wine, affordable Nebbiolo wines were readily available in my market. Today, they are still around, but, at $20 to $40 a bottle, a bit outside my comfort level. This Langhe Nebbiolo purchased at Binny's in Chicago for $11.99, is a welcome exception.
Bergadano has the deep, dark and lovely qualities that define Nebbiolo. Cherries, dried and fresh, plus black licorice and red roses. Sniff it again and again and you'll find something new each time. Aromas and flavors that seem to get bolder and brighter every minute. Chewy tannins but a racy acidity that will keep the wine going and growing for years to come. Bergadano seems to me to be a traditionally made Nebbiolo with very little, if any, new oak influence. In that sense, it differs from the Vietti Langhe Nebbiolo that I had recently at Rustica Cafe in Kalamazoo. It's a bit rougher on the finish than the Vietti but probably more authentic and certainly no less enjoyable.
Saturday, July 21, 2012
Bergadano Langhe Nebbiolo, 2008
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