Domaine Saint Gayan Gigondas, 1989

I tasted this wine right alongside the Kermit Lynch Gigondas (see below), and my conclusion is that, with Gigondas, the appellation is the thing. Although there is a 10-year difference in age, the wines are virtual twins.

The color is deep and dark. The color has turned, and is not as bright as its younger sibling. On the nose, it takes a bit longer to show its best, but the qualities are pure Gigondas--ripe red raspberries and cherries, flowers and fruit leather. Same on the palate. 1989 was a better vintage, and this wine is a bit riper than the 1999 with less tannin in the middle. It hasn't lost any of its power, however. Ripe concentrated finish. Gets riper and riper. This is a big, fruit-oriented wine with all of the finesse of a fine red Burgundy.

On the second night, the Domaine Saint Gayan clearly established itself as the superior wine, not because of the additional 10 years of aging but because of the riper vintage.