Monday, February 7, 2011

San Silvestri Ottone I Barbera Piemonte, 2007

A dinner guest immediately picked up the volatility in this wine. "It's a little prickly on the tongue; like a sparkling wine," she said. In some wines, that might be considered a flaw; in this one, it's part of the charm. And charming this wine is.

It's a very deep, bluish color, bringing to mind a barrel sample. Just bursting with fresh Barbera fruit--fresh berries, purple flowers, macerated skins. Ripe aromas and flavors that refuse to be contained. No one's going to complain about this wine's sweetness because it's so appealing and countered so nicely by vibrant acidity. As in many traditionally made Italian wines, there is a high level of volatility But my experience is this is not a sign that the wine is falling apart. I've had the 2007 San Silvestri Barbera several times over the past two years, and it's definitely on the upswing.

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