Domaine de l'Oratoire Saint Martin Cairanne Reserve des Seigneurs, 1998

On a warm night, I thought at first this wine was beginning to show its age. When I poured out a small first sip, I noted some garnet around the edges and a touch of earthiness on the nose. With a full glass, the color was dark and deep. And with some time to savor the wine, I realized why Domaine l'Oratoire Saint Martin ranks as one of my favorites. The dark cherry/berry scents and flavors run deep with subtle hints of spice, garrigue and black pepper that are typical of Cairanne. Medium bodied and silky smooth on the palate with no hard edges. I ordinarily drink this Reserve des Seigneurs at five to seven years but held back a few bottles of the 1998 because I trust the vintage. It's doing well: ready to drink but no particular hurry. L'Oratoire Saint Martin's Prestige is an even finer Cairanne, in my opinion, and I'll be giving that 1998 a try in the next few weeks.