Nine Stones McLaren Vale Shiraz, 2005

The last time I reviewed this wine [January 10, 2008], I noted the rare combination of power and beauty, comparing it to a Gigondas. I opened this bottle to drink side-by-side with a good Gigondas, and I still like the comparison (but prefer the Gigondas).

The color is much deeper and darker than the Tourade Gigondas. The wine is seven years younger and still has youthful bluish tints. Coffee tinged new oak is immediately apparent on the nose but there are also scents of fresh blackberries, cassis and a faint hint of herbs (usually not found in New World Shiraz). As I noted in my earlier review, McLaren Vale wines are noted for their strong mid-palate, and that's one of the things I like most about this wine. Flavors are strong (and pretty) from front to back. Compared to the Gigondas, there are a boat load of tannins (too many for my taste), but the wine is still young. And it's not Gigondas.

Domaine de la Tourade Gigondas, 1998

This is old-time Gigondas at its best--not a great wine but a very good one and a joy to drink with Provencal style roast lamb (potatoes, onions, tomatoes, olive oil roasted under the lamb to catch the drippings). It's not a Chateauneuf du Pape, but it may be an even better match for the dish on the table.

The color is dark but getting some brownish tints. The bouquet is powerful and intense; lifted notes of cherry/berry and hints of flowers and Provencal herbs. Thyme--yes! It's in the lamb dish, and it's also in the wine--garrigue galore. Flavors are similarly powerful and complex with lots of old vine Grenache character. Alcohol content is 14.5%, but that's a plus for this wine; it gives it warmth and power without detracting from its herbal subtlty and beauty.

This cuvee of Domaine de la Tourade Gigondas is made using traditional methods--no destemming, aging in large old barrels and no new oak. It's my style of Gigondas, and it's drinking beautifully right now. I like it better than the 1998 Font-Sane Gigondas I had a few weeks ago.

Annie's Lane Clare Valley Shiraz, 2002

I find that many mid-priced Australian Shiraz wines drink at their best from seven to nine years of age. This allows the oak tannins to integrate while the ripe fruit is still dominant.

The color and the aromas of the Annie's Lane Shiraz are reminiscent of sweet dark cherries, deep and ripe. You can smell the toffee/coffee oak at the bottom, but fruit scents and flavors are layered on top--ripe plums and blueberries and pie cherries. The oak tannins on the palate are fairly well integrated, framing the fruit flavors rather than blocking them. The longer the wine sits in the glass, the better it gets. Ripe mid-palate and finish.

Chateau St. Jean Belle Terre Vineyard Alexander Valley Chardonnay, 2003

You can still detect the French oak influence in this six-year-old Chardonnay, and it has the creamy mouth feel of extended lees aging. It's not my style of wine, but the personality of the Belle Terre Vineyard is so distinctive that I thoroughly enjoy glass after glass.

The color is a deep gold but not overly so. The bouquet features white peaches, butter, lemon and even more butter--rich, layered and oaky but still with a graceful carriage. Fruit flavors dominate with that distinctive Alexander Valley spice. Very long and very fine.

Domaine du Grand Prieur Cotes du Rhone, 2004

This is the longest I've ever aged a Grand Prieur. My usual plan is to buy a case when it's released and drink it by the time the next vintage arrives. I kept one bottle of the 2004 back just to see how it would age, and I am pleased with the result.

The color has lightened considerably, and there is a brickish rather than a bluish tone. The raspberry-tinged fruit aromas have broadened considerably and given way to scents of black pepper, fruit cake, lavender, licorice and dark Vacqueyras minerals. Very nice development. Good depth and range of flavors as well with spicy cinnamon and mint framing the ripe fruit. Has the depth and interest of a good Vacqueyras--a village wine for the price of a simple Cotes du Rhone.

As pleased as I am with the development of this Cotes du Rhone, I still don't consider it a wine for the cellar. It's just too good when the fruit aromas and flavors are fresh and upfront. The 2005 and the 2006 are still in the prime of youth right now, and the 2006 can be purchased for about $8 at D&W Parkview in Kalamazoo. The 2007 should be showing up on the shelves in a month or two, and I am looking forward to it.

Domaine de Font-Sane Cotes du Ventoux, 2005

This wine is a real beauty right now. It's a deep, dark ruby with scents of black pepper, raspberries and Provencal herbs--garrigue galore. On the palate, the wine has a pleasantly aggressive mouth feel, teasing the palate from all directions. Very lively with deep, spice-laden fruit. For its appellation, the wine has considerable structure (more than La Vieille Ferme, for example), but the fruit shines through clearly. For me, this wine is at a perfect stage of maturity, more lively and pleasing than the 1998 Font-Sane Gigondas I reported on last week.

2006 is the vintage of Font-Sane CDV currently on the market, and I recently bought a few bottles for $8.99 apiece.

Chiusa Grande Tommolo Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, 2006

This is a Trader Joe's wine recommended by Jason's Wine Blog. Jason and I agree on most of the TJ Italian selections, including this one.

The color is a deep, dark ruby red. Aromas and flavors are sleek and sophisticated with notes of dark cherries, herbs and flowers. It's medium bodied, a nice dinner wine in the mode of an inexpensive Bordeaux. Flavors are persistent and fruit-oriented, ripe but with a firm structure from the grape peels. I don't detect any new oak influence. On the second night, it was just as good, maybe a little better, but this is not a wine for the cellar. It's drinking nicely right now.

I believe I paid $5.99 for this wine, an excellent value, although there are many good values--even the high production Citra--from the Montepulciano appellation.