Trefethen Harmony Oak Knoll District of Napa Chardonnay, 2013

Many Napa Chardonnays come from Carneros, but this wine demonstrates that the Oak Knoll District is also prime Chardonnay country. The Trefethen family were pioneers in Napa, and the estate still has a well deserved following. This 2013 is mature and beautiful.

Bright yellow, still youthful looking. Elegant scents of lemon creme, pear, honeysuckle and a hint of caramel. More elegance on the palate. Focused, well defined Chardonnay fruit, minerals, vibrant acidity. No toast or butter. Reminds me of some of the better Oregon Chardonnays.
 

Phillips Hill Estates Anderson Valley Toulouse Vineyard Pinot Noir, 2006

 

Another day, another Pinot--this one from the excellent Toulouse Vineyard in the Anderson Valley of northern California. Because of its age and specific appellation it is clearly the best of the bunch (compared to Decoy California and Evolution Oregon).

Medium garnet color. The bouquet takes some time to open, but when it does, it is impressive--cherries, cranberries, a hint of almond. Aged 11 months in 35% new French oak, resulting in substantial complexity and depth. Tannins are well integrated at this point and flavors have developed nicely. Long, lovely finish with notes of cranberry and black pepper.

Evolution Oregon Pinot Noir, 2019

Yes, the photo is right: this is not a bottle but a bag-in-the-box. It's handy for every night drinking, but it is not the juggy wine you expect from a bag-in-the-box. In fact, it is very good Oregon Pinot Noir that earned 92 points from James Suckling.

Last month we had a bottle of the 2015 Evolution Pinot that I had stored in the cellar for a few years. It was good enough that I went online to seek out replacement bottles and discovered this option on the Sokol Blosser website. It is $28 for a 1.5 liter box with free shipping on an order of two or more boxes. For a wine of this quality, the bag-in-a-box makes perfect sense. If a friend stops by unexpectedly, you can pour out a few glasses without committing yourself to opening a full bottle. Once you start pouring from the box, the bag collapses on the wine, preserving freshness for several weeks. Over the long term, wine does not age as well in such a format, though, so I expect to finish these boxes within the year.

Beautiful ruby, shading to garnet. Pouring from the spigot gives enough aeration to bring out those beautiful Pinot scents--cherries, berries  flowers and spice.  Fruity on the palate but not at all simple. Silky texture, good concentration. Cranberries, orange zest and black pepper on the finish. Now the box goes back in the cellar to await another one-night stand.

Is this wine as good as the Decoy California Pinot Noir I had last night? It is much better, in my opinion.
 

Decoy California Pinot Noir, 2018

This is the younger sibling of Goldeneye (Anderson Valley) and Migration (Russian River) Pinots produced by Duckhorn winery. The fruit is generic California but well chosen to make an appealing drink-now wine.

Medium garnet. Scents of dark cherries, raspberries and rosemary. Lots of fresh fruit on the palate. Supple tannins and pleasing acidity. Spicy, peppery Pinot fruit on the finish. Focused and intense.
 

Collovray & Terrier Domaine du Deux Roches Saint Veran Rives de Longsault, 2007

Even though it was clearly no youngster, I couldn't resist taking a chance on this wine, which had a reserve of $10 and no other bidders. I enjoyed many Deux Roches Saint Veran wines in the 1990s, and they aged well, although I never kept them for 13 years. This 2007 is clearly showing its age, but it's also showing its appellation, which is comparable to Pouilly Fuisse and very good indeed.

Very deep gold. Spiced apples and grilled nuts.  A bit subdued at this stage but still showing a unique Saint Veran personality. What's left at this stage is Macon Chardonnay fruit and not the oak shell that you might find on an overly mature New World Chardonnay. Well worth the $10 price tag.

Chateau les Quatres Filles Cotes du Rhone Villages Cairanne, 2016

I can't give you much information about this estate, even though Cairanne is one of my pet appellations. Although the label suggests four females, I believe the wine is actually made by two brothers from old vine Grenache and Syrah. What I do know is that the wine, at 15 years of age, is drinking beautifully with no signs of advancing age.

Deep ruby red. Red and blue berries framed by spice and a touch of black pepper. Ripe entry followed by some gritty tannins on the mid palate but enough acidity to move the flavors through to an impressive finish that reflects the bouquet: red and blue berries, ripe and lovely. I have high standards for Cairanne, but this wine merits an A grade.
 

Pecchenino San Luigi Dogliani Dolcetto, 2016

Dogliani is a charming little village just a few hills and valleys away from Barolo in the Piedmont area of Italy. When we visited the Piedmont in October of 2019, we spent an afternoon in Dogliani and had a delicious meal at a little bistro bustling with locals. The beverage of choice in Dogliano is not Barolo, Barbaresco, Nebbiolo d'Alba or even Barbera but rather Dolcetto. Winemakers there have found that the soil and climate is particularly favorable for Dolcetto. And this wine, produced from several vineyards in the vicinity of Dogliano, is a good representative of the appellation.

Beautiful bright ruby color. Enticing aromas of fresh red and black fruits, almonds and violets. More of the same on the palate. Black raspberries, Dolcetto skins and a pleasing bitter almond finish. Coats the mouth with fruit tannins (this bottling is aged for a year in stainless). The acidity keeps it lively and delicious. I want more of this wine.