Tuesday, April 20, 2021

Domaine du Mas de Rey Coeur de Camargue, 2015

If you feel you are in a rut, cycling back and forth between Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, this wine is for you. A blend of Chasan (60%), Sauvignon Blanc (20%) and Gros Manseng (20%), it offers up unique smells and flavors, a rich texture and refreshing acidity. Chasan is a varietal created in 1958 by crossing Chardonnay with Listan (known as Palomino in Spain). The vineyards for Coeur de Camargue are located in Camargue National Park near Arles in Southern France. Very deep gold but, even though the vintage is 2015, there are no other suggestions of advancing age. Fresh, spicy aromas. Flavors suggest white peaches, blood orange and a hint of caramel. Bracing acidity and more tannins than you would expect from a white wine. A perfect wine for drinking on the deck on a warm summer evening.                                     

 

Tuesday, April 13, 2021

Domaine Sainte Anne Cotes du Rhone Villages Saint Gervais, 2005

This is Domaine Sainte-Anne's Mourvedre-rich cuvee, my favorite of the excellent array of Cotes du Rhone Villages wines produced at the estate. I was disappointed with the 2004 Saint Gervais I opened a couple of weeks ago, but this 2005 is right on target. 

Deep ruby, bright and saturated almost to the rim. A strong undertone of violets along with Mourvedre red and black fruits. Medium bodied with a velvety texture. Elegant fruit and Mourvedre spice from front to back. Sainte-Anne's wines always have substantial acidity and that contributes to their ability to age well. Long finish. What a difference a year makes.
 

Sunday, April 11, 2021

Chateau La Tour du Pin Figeac Moueix, 1990

I usually don't buy many Saint Emilion wines because I'm not a fan of the green tones that often come with wines of this appellation.  1990, though, was an excellent year for Saint Emilion, and I bought a few of the most attractive wines and gave them suitable cellar respect. This wine is now over 30 years of age, but that is not really old for a good Bordeaux from a good vintage. La Tour din Pin Figeac Moueix is 70% Merlot, 30% Cabernet Franc.

Medium deep ruby shading to brick. Cork was difficult to remove but it wasn't overly wet and there was not much ullage from the bottle. Pleasant Merlot cherry with some lead pencil but no green notes on the nose. Medium bodied with a velvety mouth feel. Still some tannic presence but very easy to drink. Nothing sensational but an enjoyable dinner wine.

Thursday, April 8, 2021

Careglio Roero DOCG, 2010

The hilly vineyards of Roero are situated just across the Tanaro River from Alba and, as a result, very close to Barolo. This wine is 100% Nebbiolo and is also very close to Barolo in personality, although without Barolo's characteristic power...and also its lofty price tag.

Looks like Nebbiolo: medium light garnet. Smells like Nebbiolo: violets, cherries, spice and dark minerals. Captivating smells and flavors with a charming rather than aggressive personality. Medium bodied without the hard tannins you might find in a Barolo of the same age. But there is excellent acidity and, I suspect, good aging potential over the next decade or maybe even longer. The beauty of Barolo without the power. I like it.

Tuesday, April 6, 2021

L. Mawby Leelanau Reserve Vignoles, 1984

 This is a wine in the "dead or alive" category. It has been resting in my wine cellar, taking up precious space, for way too many years. I have learned never to pour such a wine down the drain without tasting it to see if there is any pleasure left. One taste led to another and eventually a couple of glasses. The color has turned from white to rose, indicating oxidation, but I don't smell or taste any of the objectionable traits that I associate with a maderized wine. And I do find the dry Vignoles traits that I have missed since L. Mawby decided to become a dedicated sparkling wine producer. Rich, full body but with lively acidity. Pineapple and tropical fruit but very dry, almost tart. It's too old for Donna, but I like it and may even come back to it tomorrow night.

When this Reserve Vignoles was first released, I remember an enthusiastic Village Corner tasting note saying, in effect, "why buy White Burgundy?" When I poured it for the late Trevor Mast, the legendary Australian winemaker, his immediate reaction was "Seguin Moreau," and he later called it "that very good Michigan wine you showed me." When I asked Larry Mawby, he admitted that, yes, the wine had been aged in Seguin Moreau French oak. Even though Trevor Mast is usually associated with high-quality Shiraz, there was a time when he was involved in seeking out suitable oak for aging Chardonnay wines for Best's winery. As it turns out, the Seguin Moreau worked pretty well for this wine, preserving fruit traits without leaving oaky qualities.

Unfortunately, good dry Vignoles from Leelanau is no longer available, at least to my knowledge. The late Bernie Rink, another legendary and beloved winemaker, was my last source. Alas.

Sunday, April 4, 2021

Bois de Boursan Chateauneuf du Pape, 2003

For Easter, we had a repeat of my birthday meal: lamb chops crusted with a garlic/anchovy paste topped with lemon/garlic/mint and capers, That worked well with Chateauneuf du Pape so I had no problem going back to that combination,

Brick red color. Light but bright. Bouquet of red and black fruits, tobacco, garrigue. Even better on palate: fresh red berries, peppery spice, Plenty fresh, gets better with each sip. 2003 was an overly warm vintage in the Southern Rhone but this shows no sign of over-ripeness. 

Friday, April 2, 2021

Elio Sandri Barbera d'Alba Superiore, 2012

This is a big and very good Barbera d'Alba, albeit one with a possible flaw.

Deep and dark. Beautiful smells from the moment the cork is popped. Almost like a Nebbiolo: flowers, dark cherries. A touch of black licorice on the palate. Big, tannic structure, good body and fruit concentration. Good flavors of dark cherry and spice on the finish but also an off note that was more noticeable on the first night before the wine had proper aeration. On the second night, I aerated for about an hour and then decanted and that helped a lot. Even so, I tasted a slight metallic edge that might be brett or another flaw. I can live with it but will drink remaining bottles sooner rather than later.