Wednesday, November 1, 2017

Masi Agricola Masianco Pinot Grigio, 2016

Masi calls this a "Supervenetian" white, a counterpart to its Campofiorin (see below). It's an impressive Pinot Grigio blend that is fresh enough to enjoy casually on the deck or as a serious accompaniment to dishes such as seared sea scallops.

Pinot Grigio grapes are picked in late August and aged in stainless steel to preserve its fresh, fruity aromas and flavors. This is then blended with Verduzzo grapes picked at the end of September and then ripened for three weeks on bamboo racks to reduce water weight and increase concentration. Aging of the Verduzzo is in barriques.

Fresh aromas of tropical fruits and citrus. Weight and substance on the palate. Honey note. Concentrated and complex. More citrus on the finish.

Masi Modello Rosso delle Venezie IGT, 2016

For its price ($12 to $16) Modello Rosso offers a lot of easy drinking pleasure. I would compare it to an Austrian Zweigelt or a Cab Franc from the Loire Valley of France.

Aromas and flavors of blackberries, raspberries and black licorice. Peppery tannins and brisk acidity. A good match for pork/duck arancini with roasted heirloom tomato sauce.

Masi Agricola Campofiorin Rosso del Veronese IGT, 2013

Made with the same grapes as the Amarone (below), this wine qualifies as Ripasso or Recioto. The double fermentation method results in a wine that provides the richness and some of the complexity of a good Amarone. Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara are fermented, then fermented again with grapes that have been dried for six weeks.

Deep and dark ruby. Rich, ripe--almost jammy--aromas of blue plums and dark berries. Tannins are smooth, but I suspect this wine would age beautifully. Not as great as Amarone but has many of the same qualities for a fraction of the cost. Served with wild mushroom pappardelle with mascarpone mousse--a perfect match.

Masi Agricola Costasera Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOCG, Veneto, 2011

Costasera is considered by many the best vineyard for producing high-quality Amarone. The slopes face west with Lake Garda providing direct as well as reflected sunlight and gentle breezes.

The blend is 70% Corvina, 25% Rondinella and 5% Molinara, and 100% of grapes are dried on bamboo racks to increase concentration. Fermentation occurs in large Slavonian oak barrels or stainless steel at a low temperature; aging is in smaller Slavonian and French oak.

Deep and dark ruby. Intense and powerful aromas of baked cherry, dried plums with hints of balsamic. Tannins are bit lighter than in the Riserva (below) and, as a result, the wine is a bit friendlier at this stage. Great intensity and concentration. Perfect companion to braised short ribs with creamy parmesan polento.

Masi Agricola Riserva di Costasera Amarone della Valpolicella Classico DOC, 2011

If you have ever bought a bottle of Amarone (and I must admit that I have not), you undoubtedly know about Masi Agricola, well known for its excellent Amarones and Reciotos. The name Masi comes from the little valley purchased by the Boscaino family in the late 18th century. An historic estate once owned by the descendants of the 14th century poet Dante Alighieri, the vineyards here are perfectly situated and well tended.

Amarone is a wine made from grapes that have been dried, reducing the water weight by 80% and increasing the concentration of the wine. The grapes for this riserva have been dried for up to 120 days, then aged for 38-40 months in 600-liter Slavonian oak barrels and smaller French oak casks, 1/3 of which are new. The blend is 70% Corvina, 15% Rondinella, 10% Oseleta and 5% Molinari. The Corvina grapes have naturally developed botrytis that increases the complexity.

Very deep and dark ruby. Even at this early age, the bouquet is astounding: dark cherries, dried plums, cinnamon. Full bodied and lush on the palate with a powerful finish. Very complex. Is there a better end to a great meal?

Tuesday, October 31, 2017

Deux Roches Macon-Villages Cuvee Tradition, 2014

If you have a bottle of this wine, I suggest you open and drink it right away. It is at a sweet point that should not be denied.

Medium deep for a three-year-old Chardonnay. Intense and beautiful aromas--ripe pears, apples, honey, citrus. In the mouth, it's even more intriguing. When made right, Chardonnay has a lot of complexity. And this wine was made right. Goes beautifully with fish soup.

Cave de Tain Premiere Note Syrah, 2015

2015 was an excellent vintage in the Northern Rhone, and I was impressed by this wine at an earlier tasting. Tonight, though, it is not showing its best. I get a somewhat stinky smell of burned rubber--probably what is known as a "reduction note." In other words, it is crying for a breath of air.

I pour the wine from glass to glass, and, sure enough, the beautiful aromas of young Syrah begin to emerge. Blue plums, black berries, a hint of cassis. This is how it smelled six months ago when I tasted it. Authoritative note on the palate; reminds me of a young Crozes. And it will get better if you have the patience to keep it for three to five years.