Hewitson Miss Harry Barossa Valley GSM, 2007

The last time I had this wine (the 2005 vintage), I thought it was a bit tannic and backward for a Grenache-based wine. In this 2007, the Grenache is smiling and friendly. As before, the color is a deep crimson, and the aromas and flavors are upfront and fruity with cherries, red berries and spice. It's big bodied with substantial presence but the sleek fruit is the highlight--very Burgundian. It's very ripe, almost sweet, but the alcohol level is only 13.5%. On the second night, the tannins are more noticeable, so I like the potential for this wine.

This GSM is a blend of Grenache (54%), Syrah (40%) and Mourvedre (6%). The grapes come from low-yielding old vines and the wine is matured in large seasoned barrels--true to the Southern Rhone tradition. This vintage of Miss Harry reminds me more of a good Gigondas than a Chateauneuf du Pape.

Chateau Meyney Prieure des Couleys Saint-Estephe, 1975

I brought out this 1975 Meyney to celebrate our 37th anniversary, and it was every bit as pleasurable as our 37 years of marriage. The wine, of course, is a couple of years younger; 1973 was a miserable vintage in nearly every part of the wine world except Rioja, and I have exhausted what was once a good supply of 1973 Rioja Reservas along with a few bottles of the 1973 Inglenook Cask Cabernet. But I have no trouble moving to a fine 1975 Bordeaux that is begging to be enjoyed.

Robert Parker has stated that Meyney produced arguably the Bordeaux wine of the vintage in 1975, and from my experience with this wine, I have no quarrel with that, although my experience is much more limited than his. Prieure des Couleys, incidentally, is the second label of Meyney. So it's hard for me to imagine how good the regular bottling must be.

The color is a medium light garnet, definitely mature. The bouquet and flavors are also fully mature but remarkably fresh and lively for a 35-year-old wine. Cedar, cherries, licorice and also some darker fruit such as plums. This is a lovely wine with everything very finely focused and defined. It has lift and life on the palate with a medium to light body and a silky texture. From the first taste, the finish is long and satisfying. What better wine to celebrate 37 years?

Glazebrook Ngatarawa Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, 2005

The back label promises that this wine can be cellared for up to three years; the front label indicates that the wine was produced in 2005. And that may explain why this wine was placed on the close-out shelf of Harding's Market for $5.99. After one try, I decided it was a huge bargain and went back for more.

The color is still a light to medium yellow, and the aromas and flavors are fresh and lively. I find a good range of fruit flavors--melon, lemon, pineapple--and not very much of the vegetal green pepper qualities that are typical of some New Zealand Sauvignon Blancs. What's most notable, though, is a pronounced mineral element, similar to that of the best Loire Valley Sauvignons. I would not hesitate putting this wine up against my favorite Sancerre--Domaine Daulny's Clos de Chaudenay. The label also suggests that the wine is "best served only slightly chilled," and I agree. As the wine warms, it gets smoother and more complex--a good sign. A many-splendored finish. Wish I had more.

Pierre Andre Bourgogne Chardonnay, 2005

Traditionally, white Burgundies--even those from basic appellations--can be expected to improve in the bottle for 8 to 10 years. Since the 1995 vintage, however, even some of most expensive and sought after Burgundies have been plagued by what wine lovers call "premox"--premature oxidation. There are many theories as to what causes "premox," but the end product is easy to spot: an affected wine will turn color before your eyes in the glass and will have the musty, acrid smells and flavors of oxidation. I have found "premox" mostly in Chablis wines from 1996 and 1997--wines that theoretically should have aged well for at least two decades. But "premox" can presumably set in much sooner, and experienced tasters say that wines from vintages as recent as 2004 and 2005 could start showing the signs. I suspect that's the problem with this Pierre Andre Bourgogne Blanc that has given me a great deal of pleasure over the past couple of years. There are decent scents of pears, green apples and minerals, but they are muted compared to previous bottles and the finish is a bit hard and short. This bottle could be slightly corked, but my wife--who can spot a corked wine from across the room--says no. This bottle, for whatever reason, is just not very good.

Domaine de Font-Sane Cotes du Ventoux, 2006

Font-Sane's Cotes du Ventoux is one of my favorites year after year, and this 2006 is particularly fine. It's a deep ruby color with compact fruit smells--blueberries, garrigue, Syrah black fruit and spice. There is also a backward purple flower touch that is similar to what you'd expect from the very good Font-Sane Gigondas. This inexpensive wine ($8 to $10) is fruity but full bodied with a firm tannic structure; it has the strength and depth of a higher appellation. Flavors cling to the palate on the finish suggesting that this 2006 will continue to give pleasure over the next several years.

A-Mano Pinot Grigio delle Venezie, 2008

The promotional material for this wine states: "This wine could only be made in Italy." That may be true, but, like some of the wines now coming out of Spain, this wine has been touched by the New World as well. A-Mano means "by hand," and owners Mark Shannon and Elvezia Sbalchiero are doing their best to produce traditional artisan wine. Shannon is a Canadian who grew up in Los Angeles, learned winemaking at University of California Davis and worked for a time in California at wineries such as Bogle. He's lived in Italy since 1997 where he met his partner, Elvezia, who grew up in Friuli in Northern Italy. They now live in a once-abandoned farmhouse several hundred years old in Puglia in Southern Italy. And they are making a name for A-Mano with wines such as this lovely Pinot Grigio.

A-Mano Pinot Grigio is a light, bright yellow. Aromas are fresh and lovely--ripe pears, tropical fruits, lemon and just a touch of floral sweetness. Drink this wine outside in the Spring, and the bees will dive-bomb your glass. The same qualities are on the palate. The fragrance makes you expect a light wine, but it actually has substantial body for a brisk white wine. The interplay between lightness and body makes for an exciting complexity. I like this wine a lot.

I bought A-Mano Pinot Grigio for $6.99 (marked down from $9.99) at Sawall's Health Foods in Kalamazoo, but I'm sure it's widely available. A-Mano may be better known for its Primitivo (believed to be the grape that is now Zinfandel in California). I'll be trying that one very soon.

Monte Antico Toscano, 2006

In November of 2008, I drank my last bottle of 1980 Monte Antico Toscano Riserva. It had aged beautifully over 18 years with pure, focused Sangiovese fruit. "This is what good wine is all about," I wrote in my notes. Tonight I have in front of me the 2006 Monte Antico Toscano--a very different creature altogether but still a very good wine.

The first appearance is deep ruby--blueberries, black cherries, spice. The aromas are pleasantly lifted by new oak plus a small amount of Merlot (5%) in the blend. And the wine is also nicely forward on the palate with spices up front and then mixed berries all the way to the finish. It has the brisk acidity of Chianti combined with the sleek tones of Cabernet and Merlot. I suppose that qualifies it as a Super Tuscan, even though the price is a mere $10 to $12.

It surprised me to see this 2006 Monte Antico on the Wine Spectator's list of top 100 wines of 2009--not because I was unaware of the quality of this estate but because I figured it would always remain one of those undiscovered treasures of the wine world. Located very close to Brunello, the Monte Antico vineyards are clearly among the best of the appellation. But the wines have been traditionally made and notoriously slow to come around. From the early 1980s, I frequently found Monte Antico on wine store shelves in Ann Arbor, Chicago and Detroit, always for less than $10, and usually less than $5, a bottle. When I tried a bottle of Monte Antico young, or even at 8 to 10 years of age, I'd hold my jaws and cry for a tetanus shot. When I learned to give the wine its proper aging, I was rewarded with a wine purchased for $5 but giving $100 worth of pleasure. With this 2006, Monte Antico has clearly entered the 21st century of winemaking. This is a modern wine made to suit international tastes. And it is very good, although I don't expect it to be showing its best 18 years from now. I may buy a few more bottles, but I'm going to miss the Monte Antico of old.