I drank this side-by-side with the Grand Prieur (below). They are similar Grenache/Syrah blends from the same vintage. At $8.99, they are two of my favorite Southern Rhone bargains.
The color is medium deep ruby, neither as dark nor as bluish as the Grand Prieur. Aromas and flavors are a bit reticent compared to the Grand Prieur, but they open nicely with a little time and a little reflection. Ripe red raspberry fruit with spice and herbs--a full range of flavors that coat the tongue from front to back. It's less ripe and friendly than the Grand Prieur but ultimately has more substance and depth in a classic Southern Rhone style. Tonight, I'll take the Ventoux.
Saturday, May 9, 2009
Domaine du Grand Prieur Cotes du Rhone, 2006
The 2007 Grand Prieur has hit the shelves, and I'm sure it's lovely. But tonight the 2006 works quite nicely with rigatoni arrabiata.
It's very deep and bluish for a Cotes du Rhone and redolent with scents and flavors of fresh blueberries, spices, herbs and peppercorns. Ripe blueberries and cream coat the palate, but the wine has the structure to counter the spicy tomato sauce. It's very open on both the nose and the palate, sleek and silky in texture with plump, ripe flavors. Compared to the Salice Salentino, this is almost a softie, but that's what Grenache is all about. This is as good as it gets--spicy rigatoni and Grand Prieur Cotes du Rhone.
It's very deep and bluish for a Cotes du Rhone and redolent with scents and flavors of fresh blueberries, spices, herbs and peppercorns. Ripe blueberries and cream coat the palate, but the wine has the structure to counter the spicy tomato sauce. It's very open on both the nose and the palate, sleek and silky in texture with plump, ripe flavors. Compared to the Salice Salentino, this is almost a softie, but that's what Grenache is all about. This is as good as it gets--spicy rigatoni and Grand Prieur Cotes du Rhone.
Friday, May 8, 2009
Epicuro Salice Salentino Riserva, 2004
An article in Australian Gourmet Traveller focuses on Aussie winemakers travelling to Italy and "rediscovering the role of grape skins." This Salice Salentino--a $5.99 bargain from Trader Joe's--is an excellent example of a wine built around skin tannins; it's big and full-bodied like an Australian Shiraz but without the toothpicks.
The color is deep, bluish, almost opaque, and the wine gushes with aromas of floral- and herb-tinged black fruits. Basil, rosemary, dark cherries, and you can literally smell and taste the macerated grape skins. Very Italian, very rustic and very enjoyable. This Salice Salentino has the flamboyance of a high-alcohol wine, but it clocks in at only 13%. All fruit and all good; skins rather than oak. And ripe to the point of decadence. This wine is a perfect match for Ribollita--an incredible Tuscan soup made of "re-boiled" vegetables--onion, celery, carrots, Tuscan kale and white beans. All vegetable and all good.
The color is deep, bluish, almost opaque, and the wine gushes with aromas of floral- and herb-tinged black fruits. Basil, rosemary, dark cherries, and you can literally smell and taste the macerated grape skins. Very Italian, very rustic and very enjoyable. This Salice Salentino has the flamboyance of a high-alcohol wine, but it clocks in at only 13%. All fruit and all good; skins rather than oak. And ripe to the point of decadence. This wine is a perfect match for Ribollita--an incredible Tuscan soup made of "re-boiled" vegetables--onion, celery, carrots, Tuscan kale and white beans. All vegetable and all good.
Monday, May 4, 2009
Monkey Bay Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, 2007
Sauvignon Blanc is not a wine for aging, but sometimes a few months in the bottle can make a difference. This New Zealand Sauvignon was good when I tasted it in early December; today, it is special.
Aromas are brisk and have good lift--grapefruit, mint, basil. It's similar to the Santa Rita (below) but without the passion fruit. On the palate, there is good balance between the ripe fruit and citric acidity, and the wine has more depth and complexity than you'd expect from a Sauvignon Blanc. The finish is very long and very ripe with a unique blood orange quality. I like it.
Aromas are brisk and have good lift--grapefruit, mint, basil. It's similar to the Santa Rita (below) but without the passion fruit. On the palate, there is good balance between the ripe fruit and citric acidity, and the wine has more depth and complexity than you'd expect from a Sauvignon Blanc. The finish is very long and very ripe with a unique blood orange quality. I like it.
Domaine des Favards Cotes du Rhone, 2001
Robert Parker considers the 2007 vintage in the Southern Rhone the best he has tasted in his lifetime, and from the wines I have tasted so far, I have no reason to question that judgment. There have been many very good to excellent vintages recently, however, including 1998 and 2001. From Cotes du Rhone all the up to Chateauneuf du Pape, the 1998s were hard to resist when they were young--more impressive, in my opinion, than the 2007s at the same stage. And with few exceptions, the ones I've tasted have aged very nicely so far. The 2001s, even simple Cotes du Rhones, were a bit reticent when they were first released, but the quality was apparent. And these wines seem to be aging as well or even better than the 1998s--as evidenced by this inexpensive Cotes du Rhone, drinking beautifully at age 8.
The color is a medium deep ruby, and the aromas are fresh and lovely--blueberries, spice, flowers and just a hint of peppercorns. In the mouth, the wine is medium bodied and sleek. It has the structure, substance and drinkability of a good Pinot Noir. Even at age 8, this Cotes du Rhone could easily be mistaken for a 2007.
The color is a medium deep ruby, and the aromas are fresh and lovely--blueberries, spice, flowers and just a hint of peppercorns. In the mouth, the wine is medium bodied and sleek. It has the structure, substance and drinkability of a good Pinot Noir. Even at age 8, this Cotes du Rhone could easily be mistaken for a 2007.
Saturday, May 2, 2009
Domaine de l'Oratoire Saint Martin Cairanne Cuvee Prestige, 1998
I've been buying Domaine l'Oratoire Saint Martin since the early 1990s, and I can always depend on it to deliver a decade or so of decadent pleasure. I prefer the Cuvee Prestige to the Reserve des Seigneurs--although both are excellent. And the 1998 vintage produced particularly noteworthy wines from this estate.
There is still a deep, dark robe surrounding this 1998, and the bouquet is as fresh and lively as it was 10 years ago. I'm still eating Provencal lamb leftovers, delicious at any stage, and this wine, with its intense garrigue character, is a perfect match--thyme, rosemary, lavender and sage, then fresh berries and peppercorns. It too is delicious at all stages of development. Deep, layered, ripe and lovely. In the mouth, the wine is all that the nose promised and more--ripe, ripe, ripe front to back with a pleasant hint of Provencal olives on the long finish. I would not compare this wine to Chateauneuf du Pape because it is Cairanne and has distinctive Cairanne traits. It will not keep for two or three decades as some Chateauneufs will. But in terms of quality and the enjoyment it delivers, it's every bit as good, in my estimation.
The price tag on this bottle reads $13.99; that was before the Ann Arbor Wine Club discount. Today, this cuvee retails for $25 to $30 (the Reserve is about $5 less). That's high for a Cairanne and outside my price range. Is it worth the premium? There is no question in my mind.
There is still a deep, dark robe surrounding this 1998, and the bouquet is as fresh and lively as it was 10 years ago. I'm still eating Provencal lamb leftovers, delicious at any stage, and this wine, with its intense garrigue character, is a perfect match--thyme, rosemary, lavender and sage, then fresh berries and peppercorns. It too is delicious at all stages of development. Deep, layered, ripe and lovely. In the mouth, the wine is all that the nose promised and more--ripe, ripe, ripe front to back with a pleasant hint of Provencal olives on the long finish. I would not compare this wine to Chateauneuf du Pape because it is Cairanne and has distinctive Cairanne traits. It will not keep for two or three decades as some Chateauneufs will. But in terms of quality and the enjoyment it delivers, it's every bit as good, in my estimation.
The price tag on this bottle reads $13.99; that was before the Ann Arbor Wine Club discount. Today, this cuvee retails for $25 to $30 (the Reserve is about $5 less). That's high for a Cairanne and outside my price range. Is it worth the premium? There is no question in my mind.
Friday, May 1, 2009
Santa Rita 120 Lontue Valley (Chile) Sauvignon Blanc, 2008
Someone else brought a bottle of this to a dinner party, and I liked it well enough to go out and buy a few for myself. It is a very enjoyable Sauvignon Blanc that sells for about $7.
I like the smell of passion fruit in a Sauvignon Blanc, and this wine is gushing with it. I also smell and taste melon, mint, grapefruit, peaches--all very fresh and ventilating. The wine has a high-acid zing but does not taste tart as some Anjou Sauvignons do. Nor does it taste sweet. It has the perfect balance, perfect cut for enjoyable spring and summer drinking.
I like the smell of passion fruit in a Sauvignon Blanc, and this wine is gushing with it. I also smell and taste melon, mint, grapefruit, peaches--all very fresh and ventilating. The wine has a high-acid zing but does not taste tart as some Anjou Sauvignons do. Nor does it taste sweet. It has the perfect balance, perfect cut for enjoyable spring and summer drinking.
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