Chateau Tahbilk Goulburn Valley Marsanne, 1992

Tahbilk in Australia (formerly Chateau Tahbilk) has the world's largest planting of Marsanne, . a grape that is used in many Northern Rhone wines such as White Hermitage, White Saint Joseph and Saint Peray. Marsanne produces a unique cellar-worthy wine with which I have very limited experience. Tahbilk suggests having "a play with cellaring Marsanne opening bottles at different stages of its life. It's one of the best ways to enjoy this wine."

I have had young bottles of Tahbilk Marsanne at barbecues in Australia, and it is always one of my favorite whites, fresh and lively and a welcome change from Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc or Riesling. This 1992, at 8 to l0 years of age was too oxidized for me, sharp and acidic like a Fino Sherry. Tonight, at full maturity, it is still clearly oxidized but showing qualities I like.

Very deep golden brown. Toast, dried apricots and roasted nuts. The body has filled out, and the flavors are richer than I remember them from a decade ago. Medium acidity and an interesting, medium long finish. I have a few bottles of the 1998 Tahbilk Marsanne, that I suspect might be drinking even better right now.