Cave Vincole Kientzheim Kayserberg Tokay d'Alsace, 1983

I drank many bottles of this Alsace Pinot Gris 30-some years ago. At the time, it was cheaper than jug wine and many, many times better. I bought in quantity and enjoyed. But two bottles of this Tokay d'Alsace (the name used at the time for Alsace Pinot Gris) and two bottles of the Gewurztraminer got pushed to the side to gather dust in the cellar. It's past time to open these bottles and see what they have left.

After 30-plus years in the bottle, the cork is difficult to extract but does eventually come out (in two pieces, rather than one). When first poured, the color is surprisingly light but, when exposed to air, it quickly turns to deep gold and then a tawny color. If you go by color alone, you're probably not going to like this wine. The Pinot Gris scents, though, are remarkably preserved: dried and fresh pears, apples, butter and a touch of brown sugar. The wine is dry on the palate, although rich in flavor and texture. Remarkably clean for a 34-year-old white wine. Long, enjoyable finish. Looking forward to the next bottle.