Paul Jaboulet Crozes-Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert, 1995

From my experience with Domaine Thalabert wines produced during the 1980s, when the estate was in its prime, 20 years is a good time frame for drinking. As the late Gerard Jaboulet put it, "Between 10 years and 20 years, c'est magnifique!" I've been a bit worried about the ageworthiness of wines produced in the 1990s when changes in ownership were taking place. But this 1995 put away my concerns. It is drinking beautifully.

The color has lightened and taken on amber tones, but a full glass appears deep and dark. The bouquet is captivating: violets, rosemary, red and black fruits--mostly red. Like a good Pinot or Nebbiolo, it is a wine I could sniff all night. Flavors are even better--elegant and well delineated. Plenty of acid--for me, that is a positive. Silky texture and a long, long finish. A prime example of Syrah, well grown and well made.