Saturday, January 24, 2015

Domaine de Font-Sane Gigondas, 1998

When opened young, a good Gigondas can be breathtaking--a marriage of power and beauty. After a few years, though, these wines tend to shut down for awhile, and this Font-Sane was particularly nasty during that period, giving no indication that it would ever get back on track. But it did--big time.

Deep ruby/crimson with minimal browning. The fruit has re-emerged--strawberries, raspberries and spice. Mellow and mature. Medium bodied. The label says 14.5% alcohol, but the wine has cool rather than warm tones. Carries the alcohol nicely. If the wine has lost some of its youthful power, it has gained even more in mature beauty.

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