I don't drink many German wines, and I realize that I'm missing a lot. Generally, though, my family and friends--like most Americans--simply don't understand or appreciate the quality of German wines or of Riesling. "Too sweet," is the usual comment, and some of that prejudice comes merely from seeing the slender German-style bottle. Yes, there is some residual sugar in most German wines, but it's there to counter the acidity and provide balance that is so sadly missing from many plodding, overoaked New World Chardonnays and Cabernets.
Now in the bottle 20-plus years, this Mittelrhein Riesling is showing beautifully. Everyone at the table agreed that the sweetness was a perfect match for the spicy pulled pork fajitas. Medium deep gold color, still bright. Beautifully delineated stone fruit smells and flavors with just a touch of Riesling petrol. I paid $16 for this wine back in the mid-90s; a New World Chardonnay with this much character would sell for two or three times as much.
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