Wine Tasting on Michigan's Old Mission Peninsula: Two Lads Winery

The modernistic tasting room at Two Lads Winery is on a striking site among the vineyards near the top of the peninsula. I chose the White Tasting Flight and was impressed with the wines.

2012 Rose of Cabernet Franc ($19): This wine reminds of the rose wines from Tavel and other areas of the Southern Rhone--not too sweet and with some interesting spice and leather aromas and flavors.

2012 Pinot Grigio ($17): A very flamboyant Pinot Grigio with lots of flavor interest. Yes, I do smell the "cantaloupe, lychee fruit, and soft magnolia blossoms" described on the tasting sheet. And I like the wine, although, if I tasted this blind, I would think it was Gewurztraminer rather than Pinot Grigio.

2012 Chardonnay ($24): This is a unique style of Chardonnay, aged six months in neutral 630-gallon tanks. Has the ripe pear, apple and pineapple traits of unoaked Chardonnay but with lush body and complexity of an oaked version. Buttery, silky texture. I like this wine.

2012 Riesling ($16): Another flamboyant Gewurztraminer look-alike. Papaya, pineapple, spices. I can't find even a hint of the petroleum/slate traits that are more typical of Riesling.

2012 Fouch Vineyards Riesling ($20): Now we're talking Riesling. And damn fine Riesling it is. Delicate, fine-boned, floral. Well defined aromas and flavors.\

2011 Fouch Vineyards Riesling ($20): I like this one even better, perhaps because it has matured for an extra year (although, as the server reminds me, there were certainly differences in the growing seasons). A bit fuller and more complex than the 2012. I'd like to come back to both of these wines in another year.