Sunday, September 9, 2012

Bodegas Rafael Palacios "Sabrego" Valdeorras Godello, 2010

Go for Godello. You won't be disappointed. I must admit that I had never tasted a Godello wine until a year or two ago, but I am now convinced it is a premium white wine grape of the highest order. Over the past year, I've written posts about Val de Sil and As Sortes--other Godello wines from the Valdeorras region of Spain. They are both very fine wines, but this Sabrego may trump both.

It's a beautiful, brilliant gold color and very aromatic: white peaches, pears, minerals and flowers. Rich and creamy on the palate; nice texture. The finish is very ripe and very long but with a pleasing citrus edge. Has the complexity and zing of a fine white Burgundy but with the freshness and fruit presence that come from stainless steel aging.

Godello is a traditional varietal of Valdeorras in Galicia in northwest Spain. Many of the old Godello vineyards are now being re-claimed by producers such as Rafael Palacios, sometimes with the help of savvy importers such as Eric Solomon. The vineyards for Sabrego are at 1,800 to 2,160 feet on granite soils. (Sabrego is the local name for granite).

Sabrego Valdeorras Godello ordinarily sells for $17 to $18, but I found this bottle for less than $15 at Cost Plus World Market. It's declicious now and will only get better with a few years in the bottle. Even at $18, it's a smashing value.

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